Wheels have been balanced and aligned, but while driving straight around 40-55MPH there is a shimmy. Above or below it isn't noticeable. Doesn't do it while turning.

Friend pointed me in the direction of the rear bushings since he used to work on 280's and 300's for racing.

I have the motor and all materials needed to do so I predetonated with the old motor from junk gas

The Dashboard lights went off on my 1986 300zx. I have power to the dimmer switch. (Not sure if the switch is good). My tail and brake lights work, all of the other lights work too. (headlights, glove box, overhead,marker lights,back up lights and audio headlight warning. I have heard that the switch can cause this but it is usually in with nonworking tail lights. Can I bypass the switch to test if it is the problem. If not do you have any other suggestions? thanks

the motor spins and does not start

this car smokes a lot and not from tailpipe as normal.this one pushes it out. and on to the exhaust pipe.

Every time i try and start the car it doesn't remain idle.
Car fades up from 800rpm to about 1000rpm its slight but noticeable.
Im wondering if its the connectors/wires that hookup to the MAF.

now it's only cranking but not turning over,we checked the plugs and there's no spark

I went to recharge the ac, heard he compressor but no fan regardless of setting with or without ac activated.

find out clearance illumi fuse keep blow up when turn on switch. Removed clearance light, dimmer relay, high beam relay, back light, license light but still do samething. need help!

car died while I was driving down the road now I can't get it to turn over replace the PTU sensor and put a new battery inchecked most other common problems , like sparkplugs but I'm at a loss of what to try next

What can this be? how do I fix this?

i have fire to the plugs and i am getting fuel to the rail, but the car wont start. it will run with starter fluid.

was told it could be crankshaft sensor or distributor. it has an obd 1 and can't find a mechanic with an obd1 unless i take it to a dealer. any advise or suggestions will be greatly appreciated

And has no reasponse at all Have changed coil packs and plugs and no change what could be causing this.

Recently changed shifter

The car runs great on surface streets and the free way when in gear but when im on the free way and get on the off ramp and take it out of gear to switch to a lower gear to slow down i see the rpm needle bounce up and down a few times and then it will stall. It doesnt stall when i shift into the lower gear it stalls in between me being in 5th gear and trying to switch to a lower gear like fourth. What can be the problem because i havnt been able to find what cause it? Thank you for any help you can give!

car has only 52k miles and sat for six years.

Top left side of my engine (right next to where you pour in oil) is a little black hose about 6 inches long, bent and bigger on one end than the other.Typical "L" shaped hose. It connects to the top of the block and clearly is for oil (or possibly for air to flow) but mine was cracked and leaking. I replaced it with a piece of heater hose temporarily but the hose kinks a little and is only temporary. It was a hard rubber piece since the angle is too sharp otherwise hose will kink. So clearly I need a near exact replacement but I can't find what the part is called.

reservoir level was very low. put antifreeze in and could hear a slow drip onto under tray. Question is; how much stuff do I have to take off to get to reservoir?

Car set for quite sometime changed fuel pump, sending unit, filter, cleaned tank.

car is shifting hard was told replace ceramic resistor first but cannot seem to locateit

Just bought car from tow yard had blown head gasket and thermostat was stuck removed thermostat put in blue devil put in new thermostat and gaskets now no overheating at all but there is a noise at front of motor in the fan/water pump area

I can tell I'm getting it because the idle goes up to 1200rpm instead of 900. Then it won't start.

When initially turning the key, lights, radio, etc work by the car doesn't try to crank. After a couple of tries, it cranks like a champ. It does not occur only with cold starts. Just had fuel pump, timing belt, power steering belt, all kinds of stuff repaired less than a week ago. Thanks for any help!

Need Help any ideas welcome and Thanks ahead of time! Ok I have a 1987 300 zx non turbo, v-6, 5 speed. New oil pump, timing belt, plugs and wires cap button, new head gaskets worked heads intake upper and lower etc. Ok here is the problem it stumbles between 1400 and 2500 near to the point of shutting off. Acts like (A) lack of fuel or and (B) lack of air. Cleaned mass air flow sensor, Checked Belt timing, Checked distributor timing, set at 20 before top dead center, Checked idle set at 700 rpm, Replaced all Vacuum lines, Checked to make sure no vacuum leaks, has 35-45 p.s.i. fuel pressure. Has good exhaust pressure, will idle and rev without stumble but under load as driving stumbles.

when i turn my heat on it blows cold air i never get heat but the blower is working good.

how much would it cost to change the differential and spark-plugs on my vehicle?

i adjusted the idle down to 700rpms but as soon as i drive it the car idles at 2000 rpms