Nissan Questions

Get answers to questions about your Nissan at RepairPal. Find solutions, diagnose problems and get back on the road.

Refine by vehicle
Choose your vehicle

I didn't see this repair on the estimator page. I heard it is an easy job and the part can be aftermarket, since it is an older car. Anybody want to do the work?

just started happening

grinding noise when driving

First starting metal rattling sound. pressing gas petal metal rattling sound

Back ground info: Vg30e 5 speed, 4x4 cailfornia model

Problem started out of no where it seems, full tune up 5k ago, ran great the whole time untill now, run's fine when this "issue" is not acting up! It Causes Idle to drop very low(like 450-500 almost stalls) then 3-4 second later it will shoot up to about 1000-1100(then idles back down again to low rough idle) and repeats, If I drive it and crusie at say 2500rpm and keep it dead on RPM sometimes you can feel it Stubble/Hesitate almost the same as at idle(feels like losing 50-150 rpm then it comes back, and repeats untill i let off the pedel or accell through "it" so sometimes it will want to stall out from a take off as well ( seems like it drops to like 500 stubbles a bit then catch's up and the rpms go up and it will go!)

Got codes 45 / 33 (leaky injector/O2) o2 sensor is new and Injectors where cleaned... Doesnt seem to be either cause it can run so well at times, but then so bad others!

Cleaned/checked all the sensor plugs, doesnt seem to make a difference, fluid levels are all up, Intermentent problem but becoming more and more a problem everyday... Thanks

4cly 2wd 145,000miles 5 speed

also, if you suggest trying the product, how do you put it in? I'm in Phoenix and need ac so would appreciate suggestions!

Went to autozone and got someone to put a code reader on my car. It said speed sensor A and knock sensor code.

I was told there was a leak in my transfer case for my AWD Murano

Could it be the circuit blower resistor and what does should that cost to get fixed ?

Thank you / Steve

Everytime I drive and turn on the A/C

has become a constant problem. otherwise runs just fine.

Fan clutch just replaced. Doesn't get as hot but temp still goes up driving up hills, when load comes off the motor going down hill almost returns to normal.Nissan service techs so far have not been able to help. Has anyone had the same problem ? Thanks for any help.

about one in 12 times when trying to start i have to pump accellerator several times to get started & when does starts it idles real fast.other times it starts ok.

rack&pinion has been replaced but there is still slack. what would cause leek in power steering lines after new rack&pinion was replaced after 2 weeks

I replaced the fuel line, but the car is still leaking gas.

replaced fuel sending unit, new pump, fuel pump relay new,new fuel filter, fuses good, no holes in hoses. still no fuel passing to connection just before fuel filter from gas tank. Xtreme model XE

My car started shaking and has gotten worse. It is not bad in the idle position, but when I put it in drive it starts a slow deep shake that gets faster and harder as I increase speed. Also, in reverse, my steering is very hard to turn, which began recently with this other problem. I was told my front motor mount is the problem?

The car has 70,000 miles, but has no been driven hard. We just replaced tires at 50,000 miles. I haven't had any problems with steering or experienced any grinding noise. Could they just be trying to pull one on me? I have had other nissan's with over 125,000 miles and never had bushing problems.

My car front end sways back and forth when I am drving on freeway.
Also my steering wheel turns more than 180 making a right turn...

before my car broke down, i would turn on the ignition and my starter (i believe) wouldn't make that click. it was more like a zuhrhhh... it would sound really silent then it kind of choked and wahlah, it would start, but it sounded ugly, the choke i mean. it sounded like it scraped against something grainy and heavy and solid. THEN it would start up. and i kind of had to hold the key to the right for a minute.. almost like i was charging it. then i would turn i off once i thought it had enough power, and turn it on again and it would start. after that ugly chokey/scrape sound. now, the starter isn't even clicking or anything. i banged it with a yard scissor thing and tried the ignition again. it started clicking again, but my nissan still won't start. so i did that thing you can do with some standard cars. push started it. i pushed it until it had enough speed, then i jumped in the driver's seat, put it in first gear and ZROOM, ZROOM! i got it started. i left it running hoping it was just my battery and maybe it needed charging, but after i thought i charged it enough, i turned it off and checked to see if it would start again and nothing. no click again. can you help? any opinions on what it might be. anything would help. thanks.

car has 42,227 miles

was driving it turned it off got back in and turned it over and no crank checked spark it's good and fuel pump is running

The AC in my car will only stay cool for a couple of months at a time.The freon runs out and it has to be filled up again. I assumed that there must be a leak somewhere but everywhere I've taken it to they tell me they can't find a leak. Even the dealership cannot find it. Is there any other explanation for this besides there being a leak somewhere? When it runs out I hear a loud hissing noise in the dashboard.

Car seems to be fine in lower gears. When automatic reaches top gear there is slippage. Also when letting up on gas car seems to want to down shift but does not. Could the backup light switch cause the transmission to shift improperly

I turnthe on and then it turnes off . then i will try again the it stay on but has trouble startin like if the gas whont pass throgh . I wiil go on revers then it will go off ,it's like if I press the gas it helps so that whont turn off.

took a diagnostic and the egr valve was defective,now the car is overheatingcoolant coming back into bottle

at this point I only want to spend money on what would affect the car running or not. the broken clock spring affected the horn which I disconnected by taking the fuse out. I son't care about the cruise control, airbag or horn so is it vital to replace the spring?


The inside fan does not work on positions 1,2,3 but does work on high position 4. Is this something I can fix with a relatively good mechanical skills?