Mitsubishi Eclipse QuestionsRefine by vehicle
alternators listed for this car are a 90 amp or 95 amp...how can i tell which one i need and how can i tell which one is on the car now...
it bcomes on and stays on for 15 mins or more some times less and then would flicker and go off by itself. comes on whether I am on the hwy or in city driving......had car code tested...no codes were evident.
Everytime I drive a short distance, I am having to replace coolant, about 2 cups. There are no signs of leaks in the drive cement or anywhere. There is no smell and nothing on the carpet. We have check with a flashlight and we see no coolant splattered anywhere. I don't drive much and even after about 10 miles it went down after the car cooled off. A pressure test was done on it and it looked really good.
I'm a retired mech,mostly motorcycle,but ten years gen. automotive.I bought a 2001 eclipse a year ago,186k then 198k now.2.4 stick.It had a slight rattle I at first suspected to be a shroud or exhaust component. Since then,the noise has increased.Its not an engine noise,it only happens when moving ,and louder when coasting downhill in gear.Once out of second it goes away.I put the car on blocks,and ran it.It was quiet until I put it under load with the brakes.I could feel the rattle through the clutch fork,as well as the trans housing.It occurred with either wheel stopped.I'm thinking throwout bearing or clutch pak. please advise...thanks,mike...
i have to wait a few hours or a day then it will start again
at 90 thousand. I have 125 k on it now . The belt still looks good , but has bent valves.
Freeze frame data:
Fuel system 1 : open loop - drive
" " 2 : " " "
Calculated load: 40.7%
Engine coolant temp: -40.7F
STFT Bank 1 : 0.0%
LTFT Bank 1 : -0.7%
STFT Bank 2 : 0.0%
LTFT Bank 2 : -0.7%
Emgine RPM : 562 RPM
Vehicle speed : 0 mph
Idles rough when in park every once in awhile. And has been during on me when I come to a stop. My husband has already replaced spark plugs.
manual transmission 220,xxx miles never been rebuilt when i start my car in the morning or after an hr of not driving a few secs after i release the clutch i hear a loud rattling sound push in the clutch it goes away. or if after starting hold the clucth for a few mins and it wont rattle when the transmission warms up after a bit of driving not one more peep out of it unless i rev the engine i took a stethoscope and it doesnt sound like the releasebearing or release cylinder/bearing fork i can barely hear it in the bellhousing i hear it maily coming from the transaxle with a stethoscope anyone have an idea which bearings could be making that sound maybe a ring or something i dont no much about transmission they r not my area of expertise my expertise is in the engine any help would greatly be appreciated
i have change reverse and 1 forward gear and its not tha low gear or tha highest its in between
idle is fine. just kinda putts and dies when i try to drive it.
When I drive over uneven pavement or hit bumps, it sounds/feels as though something is loose underneath the car, driver side. Just started recently. Any suggestions?
gas gauge string or wiring issue if there is
one d/t radio in/out and sun visor lamp out also does this sound more like a wiring issue?
It just started and is getting worse. It is getting louder and louder
i replaced my EGR valve a year ago.My car started surging, the troubleshoot code for EGR valve came up, so i replaced the valve again, the old EGR valve was full of sludge so i put the new one on, and the car is still surging.In fact it is getting worse .
iit had fire ckd codes replaced cam sensor won't start now it says po183 fuel heat sensor is this a dealer part and where is it
coil also gets hot ans burns oiut.I canged plugs ,coils,woores,coolant sens,cam sens,crnkshft sensor,fault sensor ,iac,tps ansd relays and also gets power please HELP
I have water coming in the car from my evaporator.
I was installing lights. And I checked if I blew any fuses and I reset the computer nothing worked... Help!!
Ok here's my problem. I let my car sit for a few weeks. Started it and went to a gas station and filled up. Went to work without any issues. When I went on my lunch break my car stalled about a mile down the road. Ran scanner and I was throwing a code for bad egr valve. Replaced egr still got the code and won't start. Replaced egr solenoid and the code was gone. Car still working through start. Ran scanner again and got a code stating the iac idle was low. My car will start if you are giving it gas. The fuel pump is running. If you hold gas at normal idle and let it warm up it will stay running at 400 rpm. And it will throw light white smoke from time to time that doesn't smell like coolant. Any help is welcome. Thanks!
I evacuated the system and disconnected the lines to check that the condenser isn't plugged by blowing by filtered air through the system.
The low and high side switch works. If it has too high of a charge, the compressor won't turn on. If it has too low of a charge, the compressor won't turn on.
I replaced the drive belt and adjusted the tension during installation.
The central console switch(s)work.
I'm not sure if the receiver / dryer on the R/F fender well is bad or the evaporator under the dash is bad.
We just bought a 2001 Spyder Eclipse. We do not know when or if the timing belts has ever been replaced. How can we check its condition. What is the ballpark figure if it needs replacing? Thanks!
Looking to buy one, but the heat in it is bad, and I need to know how much it would be to fix ir