Mitsubishi Eclipse QuestionsRefine by vehicle
Interference engines are destoryed by a broken timing chain I am told. Is this an interference engine
I can not get in 3rd at all. 4-5 free wheel. manual trans. 1-2 ok reverse ok so far...
you need to cover ALL REPAIRS OR this site isn't squat
My 2000 Eclipse GTS idles roughly and stalls at start up and stopping please help
It happens everytime i turn the car on and drive it.
It happens everytime i turn the car on and drive it.
When I get into 2nd and 3rd it's fine but when I come to a stop sign ahead I put it in neutral as I slow down and it makes a rattling sound like putting a price paper into a house fan
This happens with no rhyme or reason.And when it does crank the car runs great???
I have had this vehicle for only 3 months. It idled rough but has been fine up until a month ago. First battery went dead...replaced! Than all of a sudden it would stall when stopping. I pulled into parking lot to work and it started to die but didn't...it felt like it was losing power. Well I thought maybe the cables were not on tight enough, so had someone check, they were fine. Took it too Auto Zone they put on there machine and said all the sensors were good. I had the alternator checked said it was good, but it was still on the vehicle??? Had the wires and plugs replaced also. Can't really get an answer from anyone since I am a woman. Don't know if they don't know anything or don't care?! I thought maybe the fuel filter, but when I went to price it, they told me it don't have one???? What the heck!! Please HELP...this is so FRUSTRATING!
Have fuel pressure but no spark. Changed crank sensor, cam sensor and coil pack. Still no spark so changed ECU (used one from wrecking yard). Checked all fuses and plug-ins.
Oil leak, discovered it was from camshaft seals, got a well known mechanic to replace for 300.00 was told specialty shop would of been about 1000.00 thought was saving money now got to do it all over again it has only been about 6 mos. just purch. this car used a year ago. Was wondering if this is something with this type of car or if something else could be eating up the seal? Or he didn't do it right but it did last 6 mos.
Rear ended 1 year ago. Insurance claim denied. Duct taped trunk shut as it allowed rain to leak in. No problems. I accidentally pulled the trunk release handle instead of the hood release handle on 01-03-15. (Needed to help jump off a friend's car.)Afraid in this cold weather to take tape off, re-close, re-tape,etc. Will light remaining on dash board drain battery? Thanks.
It occurred when I went out to leave and I had to turn the car off and could not drive it
it'll start but has to be rev'd up to hold idlE until warmed up ,then stumbles on acceleration,small backfire,and hesitation, so where does the problem or(s)
Only thing I haven't looked into was the starter, but the test showed it was good along with battery and new alternator. Could it be the ignition switch. I'm all of ideas. I would like to get it running again to sell it or keep since I have a car for now
Have put all these in plus new plugs and wires. Please help!
I just change all the spark plus & wires on my 2002 eclipse GT the car runs great going down the road but will not hold an idol? Could i have knocked something loose when changing the wires and plugs. Does anyone know what i could check and how to do it? Thank you
windows work but my remote for the doors don't . we removed the starter and had auto zone checked it nothing wrong with it.we can pop the clutch and runs fine.?????? can any one help me please ?
Drove the car which was running perfect, parked it in the garage and the next day it would not start, it will only crank. Thought it was a fuel pump problem as no fuel was being sent to the engine, but hotwired the fuel pump to the battery and the fuel pump activates and delivers fuel to the engine but engine will not start. Check for spark at the coil and power to the fuel pump and there is neither. Replaced the fuel pump sensor, camshaft sensor, crankshaft sensor and still no power. There is power to the camshaft sensor but there is no signal being sent from that point. Also checked the ASD sensor, all fuses and ignition. Prior issue has been the car would start perfectly, check engine light would come on and then go off like it is suppose to but come back on in about 2 miles or so. OBD2 code it throws is 1390 but, based on the performance of the vehicle, this code - timing missing a tooth or two, does not seem possible, and assessment was confirmed by a mechanic who placed the car on an OBD2 and received the same code. He said the car was running too good for this code. Timing belt is intact and the cams were timed less than a month ago. Car passed smog less than two months ago. Now, as I've said, there is no spark to the coils and no power to the fuel pump. Lights in car come on but check engine light does not come on (has a new bulb in it). Thinking of dropping the engine and doing a complete timing job including replacing all tensions and water pump and a new timing belt even though the one on the car is fairly new just in case whoever changed the timing belt did not completely time the vehicle. Could the cams be out of alignment? Any other suggestions? The car in the past had some modifications that were removed and put back to stock. Does the car need to be taken in and be "retaught" codes? Any suggestion would be helpful. The car is in San Diego and is driven by a starving student, who is 4 hours from us so it would be helpful if we could go down there with a better idea of what the problem is and how to fix it or what steps are needed to be taken.
I installed a used Japanese long block and the Crank. Pos. Sensor and its tone/ reflector? ring installed weren’t new and were without warranty. I have been driving it for 18 months with the P0335- Crankshaft Position Sensor A Ckt & P0340-Camshaft Position Sensor A Ckt & Service Engine alarms in yet the engine is not only running, it is performing well. I would occasionally clear the alarms but they would quickly come back in. A new Crank. Pos. Sensor and its tone/ reflector? Ring have been installed and the same alarms quickly come in again and the engine is still running well. Where the big problem comes is that with the Service Engine alarm in that is an automatic failure of the Bi-Annual CA Smog Test even if the tail pipe emissions were OK. I beginning to wonder if it’s possible that the ECU could have a glitch that causes the alarms to trigger when they aren’t real and yet keep the engine running fine. Also is the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) something different from the ECU?
hooked up OBD2 analyzer and could not get codes or any information from vehicle. Customer was installing stereo when this all started.
Car wont start out of no where stalled out on me while driving pulled over and tried to restart had to pump gas pedal in order to do so and it wouldn't stay alive if I floored it it died if I didn't eventually it still will idk what is wrong
all fuses are good, relay clicks when horn button pushed. jumped top horn, works well, bottom horn inop. is the problem in the horn button or the wiring from relay to horn. also do both horns have to be good to work.