Mitsubishi Eclipse QuestionsRefine by vehicle
i have replaced my fuel pump, battery, spark plugs, and starter on my 2009 mits galant ES 2.4 and it will now turn over but will not remain on. Please help running out of money and ideas.
Drove home one day for lunch no knocks or noises but was possibly a delay when starting the car but thought it was due to the battery life that was only at about half of its percentage, it just wouldn't start back up. We initially thought it was the O2 sensor and battery replaced them first and have been replacing part since
I have a 2003 convertible Spyder Eclipse recently bought, used. Had clutch replaced about a week ago, got it home and my wife drove for the first time. It's a 5 speed also. Anyway, she moved the steering wheel up and driver's seat forward, then the car wouldn't start. Key turned, lights came on, dinging ensued.. Turned key and nothing except a fan coming on. Went and replaced battery, still wouldn't start. A couple days later, I recalled the mechanic mentioning that he couldn't get the car to start after moving the steering wheel, so I moved it back down and car started beautifully! Drove it for a couple of days no problems, then my wife went to move the car for me, she knew not to TOUCH the steering wheel again, but she had to pull the seat up and again.. Car wont start! I've moved the seat back, tried moving the steering wheel, nothing. I can't get it to start. It's like the battery is dead now. Any help would be greatly appreciated. The only other thing I can think of is the car got rained in quite heavily for a bit a few weeks ago.. Help Please! Stephen
Will not start or is difficult to start and runs rough, sometimes smoothing out after warm up and increase in rpms.
I have it pulled out but can not get vacume lines off.
the check engine lights come on all the time and the fuel cap was replaced and fill in hose was checked and it checks ok. i would like to know where is the purge valve for this car
bought a new one had someone to put it on for me. when they was replacing it the tool that they were using touch metal and I heard a light pop noise. after that I started having problems with my alternator. my inside lights don't all come on and I have no brake lights
I have bought 3 new alternators and they all keep going bad
2003 Mitsubish Eclpise idle/stall?
I have a 2003 Mit Eclipse RS. Car started stalling during deceleration and stop signs. Only would happen while foot not on accelerator. Took to mechanic. Got 2 Codes. Misfire and Bad O2 Sensor.
Mechanic suggested follow the misfire. Replaced all plugs, electrical box, wires, tune up, oil change $360 later did same thing. Next got second opinion. That mechanic cleaned throttle body and IAC. $120 dollars later same problem. Finally, took to Mitsubishi. They suggested follow the computer and replace O2 Sensor. $175 later still idles poor. Feels like gonna stall but doesn't. Don't know what to do or where to take. Had it smoked scanned for vacuum leaks found nothing. Everyone treating symptoms not some tricky cause. Read that only other cause could be small hose that you can only tell is bad when its opened up but seems like long shot.
Anyone have/fixed problem like this please let me know.
(Since 02 sensor change runs better untill A/C turned on
and SES light has come back on)
cranks good took out 1 plug cranked over don't see a spark. what should I try next?
His car will no longer go into 3rd gear, and getting hard to go into 4th gear.. Has been looked at my? people. - one seems to be able to figure out. Some say whole new tranny, few have said not a whole new tranny. Any advice , suggestions ..etc?
Disconnected battery lights went off. Drove car a a couple of kms and heard noise underneath, then solid metal sound and lights came back on.
Please note that this is a 2008 Montero Sport assembled in Japan 6V 3000cc 24V, not an Eclipse.
It jerks only in reverse and the error code showed up i checked it and it came out as p1750 any suggestions??
Normally, the ring around the where the key goes illuminates prior to starting the car illuminates when you the interior lights come on, but it doesn't. How does one go about fixing this issue...it bothers me that it doesn't work.
after I bought a new battery, my car started reving/idling high while in park
is it the cats cause this horrible noise in the y- pipe.
My timing belt went on my car, and I was fortunate enough to be sitting still idling, so no apparent damage to valves. I got everything back together, and it runs without a miss at all, but after a few seconds running, I gett a tapping noise in valve cover, and my oil light comes on. I noticed when lining up timing marks, that to put the oil pump in time, it was difficult to turn, couldn't hardly turn by hand, used a socket. I pulled bolt and and put a pin in the front of the engine to determine it was in right position. A couple friends said it sounds like the oil pump went which is why the timing belt went. Ot could this be a combination of of oil pump, and me having the timing 180 out?
the cooling fan does not turn on ever,causing car to start overheating.. temp gauge gets warm/hot
Was periodic but continuous now. Studders after idle speed ican press gas pedal to try keep from dying or to gain speed or to stop the hesitation
dont know why ? can someone help me?
Blower throughs heat on right side , cold air on left side ?
Heater works only on right side only . blows both sides
Okay so i have a 98 eclipse. i went out yesterday morning to start it and the battery was dead so i jumped started it , after jump starting it i ran my friends keys back into the house when i came back out the car was full of white smoke and had turned itself off . i just bought a brand new battery and the car will not turn over . it doesnt make any noise when i turn the key. help?
How difficult is it to replace the lifters and what would an esitmated cost be.
a little history on this car-
I first noticed the car was slipping in and out of gear shortly after buying the car, then one day,it jerked hard, and went into limp mode, and the neutral light started flashing, and the check engine light came on.shortly after that, I started hearing a whining/light grinding noise, so I bought another transmission, re-installed it, and test drove the car,codes P0750 and P0755 (Shift Solenoids A & B Malfucntion) same problem all over........ I took the car to the dealer to have it diagnosed, they said that the Output sensor was bad, or the wiring from that sensor to the PCM was bad, or has a short, worst case, the PCM was bad. after spending $100 bill,for the short diagnostic, I took the car home and went to work. tracing and probing the wiring harnesses and connectors to find my short. I couldn't get to the area of the firewall where the main harness comes through, so I went about removing the blower motor housing and some of the duct work to get to the PCM, I wanted to rule that out of the equation. Once I had the PCM disconnected, I went back to my harness and Voila! the ground was still there.....so, I put the PCM back in place, returned the blower motor housing and went back to tracing the harness short, to make a long story short, the car has a "Sportronic" Transaxle, basically a sport shifter/dual pattern shifter, well, the wires coming from the input speed sensor,output speed sensor and park/selector switch all were black with an Orange tracer, I happened to glance at the shifter wiring, and wouldn't you know it....there was a black wire with Orange tracer. I disconnected the switch from the harness and no more grounds......I have yet to drive the car, but I am confident I found the problem. I'll dig a bit deeper into the factory service manual and see how to test/diagnose that switch. I hope I can save someone the aggravation I just went through and avoid a similar situation.
So, if anyone else has a smiliar problem, and from what I have been reading, it's a very common problem with these mitsubishi transaxles.
Hope this helps!
Please let me know if there is anything I may have overlooked.
Hi! I have a 2000 Eclipse GT 3.0 with the sportronic transmission, shortly after buying the car, the trans started slipping, harsh engagement, in and out of gear. finally went into Limp home mode, DTC codes P0750 and P0755
(Shift solenoids A&B malfunction) then it started making grinding/whining noises. bought a used 60K mile transaxle, swapped it out, changed the filter (had to split the case) changed the fluid and went to test drive the car- didn't get two blocks before the car jerked and went into limp home mode. took the car to the dealer, they said one of the speed sensors wasn't being read buy the PCM, possibly a broken wire/sensor. I'll have to see what sensor they were talking about. I know there are three- Input speed sensor, output speed sensor and VSS sensor. I believe the VSS sensor is fine, otherwise my speedo wouldn't work. as for the other two, I'm not sure how to check them, I am looking into getting a factory service manual right now. let me know if you can help me out here, I'm going crazy with this car........
i have full clutch pedal and pressure but car only moves when the rpms are very high it doesnt matter what gear even reverse. never heard a noise or pop but did notic a few days before an the day of the problem a little harder to shift into 3rd gear the trans is covered under warranty the clutch is not. Any advice would be great.
I took off the fly wheel to straighten it out but now the bolt patterns do not match up. I can only get about two screws in properly.
I believe that my car already had a blown head gasket when I took it to the shop and the mechanic was negligent in doing a thorough inspection ( top radiator hose swollen to almost burst, gurgling in radiator) and reported that I needed a new water pump, which he replaced. He claims I was 2 quarts over limit on oil ( which I believe was coolant leaking into oil) and he changed the oil. Is that normal to change oil when u replace water pump? Also, shouldn't you replace thermostat a the same time?
I would like to replace them
The sunroof is almost shut but it will not shut all the way.