Mitsubishi QuestionsRefine by vehicle
3.8L V6 6cyl engine. Replaced with a clean used one. All parts and wires put back. The starter is good. However, although the starting sound is ok, it wont start?! Why? What should I do, please?
recent oil change major leak from around oil filter supposedly high pressure oil line above filter
Tried to jump start unsuccessful. Lights and radio all turn on.
every min sound come
To chang spark plugs
To cangespark plug
The hazard lights work. The right tail light keeps going out aswell. When you hit it it comes on. Could it be lose wiring or fuses? Could not locate a fuse for the turn signals and the heater fuse looked fine. Had the car for about 6 months and about a month ago, that's when the problems started.
during the summer my floor got wet when i turn on the ac that was five months ok
Who: 2003 Mitsubishi Galant Es 4cyl.
1. Whiny noise high pitch when the accelerator is pressed.
Action1: (Shop said it was unfounded)
Action 2: I tune it out with the radio
2. I started hearing a rattle and then it completely started rattling.
Action1: added more engine oil 10/30 and it seemed to stop for awhile.
Action 2: added full quart of auto trans fluid.
3. I took it in because I did not want to deal with the hassle of fluid swap. I don't understand why it would be so damn low.
My car has been running good. Until now.
As of 0202 today
It has supposedly
1. transmission service
2. Midas oil changed and fluid swapped
3. Muffler shop replaced the front cat with manifold but removed the head shield
4. New radiator due to leaking
5. New 02sensor waterpump and timingbelt alternator
No codes pop up and no icons on the dash.
However I have placed about 7,000 miles since April and the work above was done in June.
There is no fluid leaking nor seeping anywhere.
It's been driving okay I never go above 3500rpms. I was entering this evening the on ramp which is not even steep and it got to 40mph and choked. It got stuck at 3500rpm and would not go past 45MPH.
I ended up getting off the next exit and coasting it . It had no problem speeding up to 50downhill and the got stuck at 55 and would not go faster rather it slowed down. After that on flat 30-40was the fastest. I parked it and added the 1qt transmission fluid and the rattling continued. . I hear the rattling from the front cat. I also checked for codes on the OB2 and nothing. Voltage check verified 13.88v for my alternator which is what is marked last time the shop looked at it. The transmission mount looks without removing all ok it's not doing the clicking rattling.
Do I add more transmission fluid? Will that help? This is my only car. I don't understand why it's having a hard time shifting from 2K to 2500 to 3K to 3500 rpms and the same for 40.
It got me down highway 1 twice in the last two weeks round trip plus SF... And countless times into solano area. If I let it sit a day will it make it better?
What can I do to trouble shoot this so at least I can get to work?
after cleaning throttle body my check engine light came on what would cause this the computer or can I adjust the idle if so how
I cleaned out throttle body due to rough idle and stalling I cleaned out throttle body after doing that the check engine light came on could it be a ground if so where are they all located
I picked up my mom from work and when I came home I left my car running and when I jumped on my antifreeze started to spill over my engine. I checked my radiator hoses and they looked fine. What can it be? Beside that, I will really appreciate the help.
The headlights flash even when the car is turned off until the battery runs down
Hi, as above I have changed the fwd/aft eng mounts as the fwd was u/s. this improved the shake a bit. but I notice that if i put it in reverse the shudder is nearly all gone, but if I put it into drive the shudder is most definite,some days it is not as prominent as others but is always there ,also while trans is cold and I pull up a little bit rapid the release of top gear is a bit of a klunk ...I suspect sticking valves but not sure.
the car runs awhile and then will not restart the battery and alternator are brand new and starter has been tested the ground cable has been replaced and will not hold a charge any ideas?
I replaced the switch, that did not fix it.The bulbs are still good.
The bulbs look like they are still good!
Could it be the thermostat or a sensor
3 weeks ago check engine on. when to auto zone, and they had very hard time pulling the codes--machine read error. when to another place same thing occured and after trying three different scanners Oreailysgive me one code. It was oxygen sensor.. took to my mechanic and i guess he read his own test and informed me that it was another sensor as well. both replaced were replaced. one on 12/11/15 and the other on 12/14/15, took emission test on 12/17/2015.
aUTOZONE SAID THEY DID OBD IN MY CAR MAY NOT WORK AS IT WAS LOOSE.
i was pulling out of a car park an the car made spit noise an died there is a small water leak an sounded like a tractor once i got it running again, wev manage to get it running again but could the problem be air filter?
i will Replace Engine ECU,Immobilizer ECU also Key Cylinder and Key