Mercury Villager QuestionsRefine by vehicle
first it started hesitating at 40mph now it does it at all speeds, when idiling. Would think if it was the fuel pump it would have quit by now. been doing it for the past 2,000 or so miles. could it be the o2 sensor? it has 152000 miles on it. would appreciate any help. thanks.
it goes away while i drive but sometimes when i turn i comes back?
The fan speed resistor for my front A/C - Heater keeps failing. Part only seems to last about 8-9 months before it burns out (then only high speed works). Any ideas why?
I've replaced front tires, rebalanced all 4 tires, replaced lower ball joints and struts. Any ideas?
It has 277,000 miles and is always serviced. It just making this sound when I turn the key in the ignition. It stops after 30 seconds or so. Is this some kind of waring signal, like maybe it wants to retire??? Thank you!
anyway we have checked and there is no fire (spark) from the spark plugs to the disp.and the rotor is turning ? can you please help with a solution where we may fix this ourselves? please!! thank you ;)
The items not working are: electric windows, electric door locks, dome light, dash lights, & the alarm is going off, unless I take alarm fuse out. I do not know if there is possibly a fuse that controls all of this or how to remove the one that it may be, I do not have the owners manual.
Already replaced calipers and pads.
While driving at high speed, a grinding noise occurred and the AC (was already not very cold) went warm. The last 2 days the grinding noise comes and goes. Small amount of "smoke" coming from the main belt area. Is it the AC compressor or the water pump? So far no leaks or over heating.
I had a tires plus guy tell me that I have a leak under my van at the u joint where my second ac unit is but I can't find a picture telling me actually where the ac line is! I need help finding a picture of what all those pipes and lines are under my van are. Thanks
Couls this be a fuse issue?
engine light on. have to drive with overdrive off because 4th gear isn't working.when a pull off from a stop positiom have to baby moter so it can go from 1st to 3rd gear
There is a small uneven hole in a cap on a part attached to the side of the compressor.Maybe it's a relief valve? We charged the ac system and it worked for a day or so. Can anybody tell me what this is?
my 97 villager died on my way to work and got it home,it turn over,so figure it would be fuel pump went and got one,stillwont start,tested fuel relay ,ok im getting the pump to work when i jump wireit.but still no start...help me find the problem,i just got a obd,&mettr.
pulled code p1320
I am having problems with my car when i first star it she runs well but after maybe ten or fifteen minutes she starts stuttering and acts like she is going to cut off i dont really know whats wrong but i am sure my warranty will pay for it but i dont know if the repair shop will accept my warranty payment
We have a key, but it doesn't seem to work. Can't find a release anywhere.
brake light lamp and brake pads went bad. replaced them. then brakes acted like hard to push. even when u let off gas and didn't hold brakes, brakes stopped car. replaced calipers,rotars, brake lines, now master cylinder, rereplaced brake pads. what causes brakes or wheels to lock up like that even after all those new parts?
After a stat replacement for cooling value the monitors will not set. All but egr evap and cat monitors. Have drivin according to drive cycle procedure but no good have a total of 245 miles no codes but still these 3 will not set.
Problem is that sometimes the car will turn right on the 1st try, sometimes it takes a 4-5 tryies to turn on. The mechanic said I need to replace the distributor.
only when I'm on D and push hard on gas pedal from a complete stop . Not if I accelerate slowly. It sounds like the engine is dropping from car for a moment, but then it drives good.
We looked under the hood but have no idea where we put the brake fluid.
I had the rear manifold replaced a couple months ago 2 months after driving fine it lost power and i smelled the exhaust through the vents, now the van dies woulnt stay started but it lost power before that
again need help please?
I have a hole in one of the hoses that is connected to the heater and in between the manifold and engine. I keep losing antifreeze in this particular hose and my heater doesnt work quiet right. This hose is hard to get to. this is an everyday occurance.
all my power windows and locks stoped working fuses are good what else should i lok for to fix
The van runs fine and has plenty of power on acceleration. Idles at normal rpm, Idel air control motor is working good, egr valve works good by manual depression. Vacuum is steady at 15 inches of mercury. Inspected spark plugs, no problems found, cleaned rotor, distributor cap and inspected plug wires. No emission codes. It's not to bad in park but is very noticeable and sounds like it's going to die at a stop in drive.
Has been making same noise, but only when turning it off. Had it in for oil change, and told service tech. He said it was an internal engine noise, and it's beyond their abiblities. Was driving about 50 mph, when engine died. Tried to restart,turns over, but no reaction from engine. All battery powered items work, good charge. Did not make any other noises (no belt slapping around, no pops, no grinds, etc...). Please help. Villager Estate model, 3.3 L v6 engine.....8th character in vin # is T
I'm trying to find the location of the DLC that is supposed to be under the hood on the drivers side. it is used to put the pcm into "diagnostic test mode" wherein the MIL (check engine lamp) flashes the diagnostic codes
I purchased this van cheap the previous owner had the timing belt replaced after the distributor locked up but he had problems with it not running correct after that! So I bought it for next to nothing and found that the cam timing gear that drives the distributor has a couple teeth missing & it jumps time occasionally. My question is how costly of a job is it to replace it?