I have over 200,000 miles on it.

My turn signals will not operate at all. The physical lights work fine when I turn the running lights on. But when I signal left, right, or use the hazards absolutely nothing happens. Also the fuel level doesn't read. Everything else works on the cluster including the menus. It does say on the cluster that it has a malfunction. Many other electrical problems with the car: head rest button on center console and the rear window screen do not work. Car will not lock, unlock, or release trunk (have to release it manually). Haven't dug into anything just yet, but is there anything in particular I should look at? Going to test all the fuses but no other ideas.

Try checking fuses still not working

After replacing the brake switch and my brake lights are not working

it starts and idle fine until you accelerate then it shuts off

My car makes a grinding noise at low speed when I turn my steering wheel. The steer rack was pointed out by a previous bosch mechanic as needing to be looked at as it could fail in the future. Does anyone know how much this repair may cost? Trying to build a budget for myself.

i also bought a new battery. what is the problem? why wont it start?

black when i spep on break but running lights work fine till i press break and again all lights on drivers rear go out

Recent State Inspection was passed. Initially I thought the problem was worn shock absorber grommets. That was not the case. Am thinking that perhaps the front anti-sway bar has a problem. Have not noticed abnormal wear to front tires.
There are new tires, springs, and shocks on the front end. Alignment seemed to be correct.

was just driving my vehicle and the eletronic check engine light just poped on

daily when first driving car for the day

The right signal on dash is constantly lit and when I use right signal to turn, car make buzzing noise then shuts off immediately. Also, 3/4 daytime lights are now much dimmer than the rest when car is in drive, and when the car is in park, only one small bug-eye stays lit. All of the above began after battery replacement. There are additional wires connected to the "red" wire on battery & they seem to be short circuiting/burning inside the protective tube. Is this the reason for all the rest?
Since battery change, car sometimes will not start unless I take red/black wire off battery for a second the replace, then car will start. What causes that if the battery is new? (less than 3 months)


Does this with or without engine running. Driving short distance - no change.

Cannot isolate noise. turned engine over and drove forward and back but made no difference.


main parking brake cable broken - how do I replace it

The check engine light is on and ABS light is on with the ESP .The car has been sitting for two yrs.

My scheduled maintenance light is on what do you get done with your maintenance A and what do you get done with your maintenance B

both key wont turn they are stuck about a week ago one set of keys were sticking my wife ,had to ture the streeing wheel to get it to turn over now both keys wont turn and don't know what to do should I replace the ignition lock

The E320 was parked and I was removing parcels from the trunk. there was a loud bang and the front end of the car sagged down to the stop.

I have received advice from about a dozen people. Each has a different solution. Basically, I am told to complete a "drive cycle" that is highly involved and looks like it will be very difficult to perform.

If am going to do that and if that doesn't do it, my mechanic said he will do it for me for $150 and not return the car to me until it is ready to pass. I suspect I am going to be handing the car over to my mechanic in a day or so.

But I want to know, how did this happen? How did my car's computer (the OBD) suddenly become "not ready" with regard to the catalytic monitor? Because I don't want this to happen again. If it was something I did wrong that I can prevent doing in the future, I want to know about it.