Mercedes-Benz E320 Questions
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Can this be an accurate diagnosis? All I see on line is changing the fluid, nothing about seals needing replacement. Car has 216000 mi
Have to raise rpm really high to go in reverse
The car wouldn't start and the battery is located in the trunk. The trunk can't be opened
would like to find fuel pump relay location
Want to know exact location of the. Code#PO705 and how to replace
tarrying to pass smog in the state of Nevada I think the code was POO41
first noticed rattle noise under the car
My car model is E230AG My ETS ,ABS and low break light will on when i am on the road. Sometime the car refuse to move, sometime its move but in low gear.Sometime its run perfectly. Can anyone give me some advice? thankyou
Is also going to be needing to be replaced? What would the affect be?
Car displaying ESP DEFECTIVE, FAILLING TO START
why is my car hesitating to accelerate unless the temperature goes up to 80%
When car warms up the sound goes away.
is there access to a place that I can disengage the pedal like in a manual release type of car,
Transmission jerks when taking it out park to put in reverse or drive, and when in drive, it will not go into 2nd gear.... Is it an electrical component issue or the transmission itself that needs replaced....
I have over 200,000 miles on it.
My turn signals will not operate at all. The physical lights work fine when I turn the running lights on. But when I signal left, right, or use the hazards absolutely nothing happens. Also the fuel level doesn't read. Everything else works on the cluster including the menus. It does say on the cluster that it has a malfunction. Many other electrical problems with the car: head rest button on center console and the rear window screen do not work. Car will not lock, unlock, or release trunk (have to release it manually). Haven't dug into anything just yet, but is there anything in particular I should look at? Going to test all the fuses but no other ideas.
Try checking fuses still not working
After replacing the brake switch and my brake lights are not working
it starts and idle fine until you accelerate then it shuts off
My car makes a grinding noise at low speed when I turn my steering wheel. The steer rack was pointed out by a previous bosch mechanic as needing to be looked at as it could fail in the future. Does anyone know how much this repair may cost? Trying to build a budget for myself.
i also bought a new battery. what is the problem? why wont it start?
black when i spep on break but running lights work fine till i press break and again all lights on drivers rear go out
Recent State Inspection was passed. Initially I thought the problem was worn shock absorber grommets. That was not the case. Am thinking that perhaps the front anti-sway bar has a problem. Have not noticed abnormal wear to front tires.
There are new tires, springs, and shocks on the front end. Alignment seemed to be correct.
was just driving my vehicle and the eletronic check engine light just poped on
daily when first driving car for the day
The right signal on dash is constantly lit and when I use right signal to turn, car make buzzing noise then shuts off immediately. Also, 3/4 daytime lights are now much dimmer than the rest when car is in drive, and when the car is in park, only one small bug-eye stays lit. All of the above began after battery replacement. There are additional wires connected to the "red" wire on battery & they seem to be short circuiting/burning inside the protective tube. Is this the reason for all the rest?
Since battery change, car sometimes will not start unless I take red/black wire off battery for a second the replace, then car will start. What causes that if the battery is new? (less than 3 months)
BEFORE WARMED UP THIS HAPPENS WHEN WARM, GOES AWAY. RUNS GREAT EXCEPT FOR THIS ONE PROBLEM GET P300 CODE
Does this with or without engine running. Driving short distance - no change.
Cannot isolate noise. turned engine over and drove forward and back but made no difference.
GIVE THIS WORD IN THE SCREEN "WAIT" EVEN I SWITCH IT OFF