Mercedes-Benz C240 4MATIC QuestionsRefine by vehicle
long time no hear...
I've been away for quite some time, wich means that I have been out of troubles, but today my Merc laid down some troubles for me to solve...
after a lovely brunch at the seaside, I sat down on my car and turned on the key...
the car started with no fuss but when I placed the lever on D position, I felt a kick from the transmission, and then I realised that something was wrong...
CEL turned on and there was no info on the Gear Lever position on the dashboard...
the car drove initialy with no big changes, but then the lack of changes made the meaning... the gearbox wouldn't change from 1st gear...
after some checking, I realised that the gear lever was stuck on D or N and there was no going back to R or P, unless I turned off the key and then it would change with no problems...
I then read the codes of DTC and it came like this:
Powertrain - Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "A"/"B" Voltage Correlation
Powertrain - O2 Sensor Circuit Range/Performance Location Bank 1 Sensor 1
Powertrain - Throttle/Fuel Inhibit Circuit Range/Performance
Powertrain - Transmission Range Sensor "A" Circuit (PRNDL Input)
Powertrain - Barometric Pressure Sensor "A" Circuit
I managed to bring my car back home and it is now safely sitting on my garage, waiting for me to see any meaning on this...
I read in some information and other threads in this forum that some people have experienced similar issues with their gear boxes...
Are there any wise words on this malfunction that I should hear?
Can I look for something in specific before jumping into a carshop and pay quite expensive bills that may come around?
I had my trasmission fluid changed 2 year ago (46.000km) and back then I also changed the pilot bushing that was at the time not leaking but menacing to begin to do so...
since then the car drove quite troubleless... until today...
please give me some help around here... I need your expertise and previous experiences...
weak brakes in reverse. all brake pads are new. brakes work fine in forward gear.
88,000 miles. Does not matter how far the wheel is turned.
The oil light comes on quite frequently to add a quart of oil. Is that normal? Its maybe every 6 wks or so.
When I turn off the car and start it again, the gauges work for a minute, then stop working again, but the car still drives. After it sat for about a week, it took many attempts for the key to unlock the door, and when I tried to start it, it did not start. About a week later, the battery died as well.
Also, my mechanic did not do a diagnostic, but he thought that it might be the ignition, so he ordered and installed a new ignition; however, when he attempted to program the ignition with the program key, it did not program. Is my mechanic misdiagnosing my issue? And if so, what could be the issue?
leak of ATF / control module
coded for crankcase position sensor changed that happen before 6 months ago same sensor. now will no go at all.
Monday I was driving and my car started to not want to accelerate. I pulled over and it stated that the battery was bad. So when I go home (in the mountains) I changed it out with the new battery in my 2003 BMW 525I to see if this would correct the problem. The check engine and battery lights both went off and the car drove fine. Until Yesterday morning that is. I was driving and an error code of P0563 High Voltage, popped up and my car started to not want to accelerate and at one point went into limp mode. I unhooked the battery and the car shut off. That tells me that it is the alternator? BUt I just replaced the alternator 4 months ago. Is there any way that by using the battery from my BMW the voltage is out of range causing the car to act up? Or is it the alternator?
Please help me!!
I recently changed my daughter's combination switch and now it will not cancel automatically after completing a turn. I found a small brass ring on the floor before installing the new combination switch. I could not see where it could have came from. Need technical help. Thanks
sometimes when i go slow down or I stop the car, the engine
doesn't respond if I accelerate again, is like if I put the transmission in neutral or something like that. I need to turn off the engine and turn on again to continue. I think is a electric problem
First the plastic pull pulled off, then the cable core pulled out with very little force. So I cannot get to the cable where it is fastened to the latch under the hood. How do I unlatch it, short of cutting a hole in the hood.
The reason I need to get in there is the serptine belt is broke and the battery is dead. Thanks in advance for any help you can give me. Loren-2020
itll come on rarely but idk whats the problem?! i dont know where the fuse is to check it?
noise in the rear of the vehicle when turning or backing up and sometimes while driving
The plate number light is not functioning
after driving my car for a couple of errands that took about an hour I backed my MB into parking spot and shifted to park shut off car and removed foot from brake. as soon as I took foot off pedal car rolled. tried to start and now wont start any ideas first time happening
It makes the sound for 59 times just like the seat belt indicator and does it in unision with the seat belt beeps. If you turn on the heater it gets louder.
The car has problems starting, specially when warm. Sometimes idle level too low, this gets worse the longer the car runs. Sometimes pressing the gas pedal does not obtain an immediate response, pressing the gas pedal slowly seems to solve the problem. I have checked the vacuum seal on the exhaust.
just drove 325 miles, stopped twice started no problem. stopped again came out car will not start. all lights, door locks work, turn key all dash lights come on but nothing happens, no turn over. just nothing
In Fall took a long trip by car with out any issues. Upon retrun...a couple weeks the trans. began with problems..screeching and then limp mode. NEW TRANS in January. Out of the gate...hesitation on occasion, failure to shift into high, slipping, occasion rough shift..once threw my head back against head rest eventually locked up. Each time I took back for a look at..NOTHING! This happened off and on over weeks.
Currently, back at trans place. First they thought it was a bearing and was getting permission to replace with another trans....still under warranty. Since then, with in a hour or 2, they determined it is TCM and $600.00 to replace. If this was the contirbuting factor to initial failure will it have damaged current trans? will this correct issue? ( do you think? any other ideas? To my knowledge there was no leakage at all...had at my regular service center and they did not see any leakage.
I change my signal light switch and after that the SRS light is on I wonder if I can ciear it my self
At first It started with clicking noise from vents when heater or air was turned on. Now all of a sudden without warning a loud knocking from under the hood.
No problem in drive after it starts. But starting is taking a while..