Mazda Tribute QuestionsRefine by vehicle
Car dealer stated the above needs to be replaced-- would like to know the estimated cost + labor for these repairs
Problem only when cold. Have friend run codes with his machine and we have replace numerous parts including O2 sensor, vacuum lines, throttle control valve, and new plugs & wires. nothing has solved the problem.
we are getting the run around from the dealership and need second opinions
Today I went over a friends house to check out her car. When I tried to start the car it only continued to crank but no start. Sounds like a normal crank. I checked and verified there is good spark. Fuel pump is running. This leads to my first question. Is there and where is the test port to check fuel pressure? I didn't see anything under hood. I finally got the car started after cranking it four times for about 30 seconds each time. It ran rough and died out. It did this two times then I gave it gas to keep it running. When you press the gas above 3,000 RPM the engine runs smoothly and when you stop pressing the gas it runs rough for about 7 seconds then dies out. Checked for codes with aftermarket scanner and had P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire stored. Removed intake to access #1 cyl. then swaped coil from #1 cyl. to #6 cyl. and spark plug from #1 cyl. to #5 cyl. Put everything back together and erased codes. Vehicle started and ran rough. Scanned for codes and retrieved a P0306 Cylinder 6 Misfire. Simple enough I need a coil so I thought. Replaced coil in cyl. #6 which was originally in cyl. #1. Ran vehicle and it still runs rough as it did when I first got it started. Scanned for codes again: P0302, P0304, and P0301. Cylinder #1, #2, and #4 misfire. I disconnected cyl. #2 coil wiring and engine idle did not change. I disconnected cyl. #6 coil and engine ran rougher. There is a large hose that goes from the upper intake on right bank side to the lower intake at the rear of engine. Where it attaches to the upper intake it is a rubber elbow which collapses when the engine is running in open loop and closed loop. Checked the hose for blockage and found nothing. Reattached hose at lower intake and sucked on hose (yumm) and noticed no restriction. I was able to get it to not collapse by putting pliers around it and ran engine. Still runs rough but did not collapse. I think it collapses because the rubber is weak. I looked over repair pal's advice colomn and saw a couple places where people mention intake gaskets failing. I sparyed brake cleaner around intake and noticed no change in engine RPM then sparayed carb cleaner around intake and still notice no change in engine RPM. Do you think it's the intake gaskets? Any help would be appreciated and Thank You.
wHEN COLD it hesitate for a while , is hard on gas & DO A WEIRD NOISE WHEN RIDING COLD TILL GET TO NORMAL SPEED.
When I turn my heat on, there is a burning smell coming from the vents.
what is causing my 01 mazda tribute not to go into gear when i apply the brake and start to put in gear.is it something simple to fix or will it cost alot.the problem just occured last night after i came in from work and went to pick my daughter up from work.never had this problem before now
Starts fine and runs through all automatic gears fine until low rpm (like going up hill) in Overdrive. When it shifts down or I turn off O/D, rpm goes up and engine runs fine. Possibly related, while driving about every 5 minutes all gauges goes full max and hold for 3 seconds, then go to zero, hold for 3 seconds, then go back to normal indications. Cruise control does not drop off and there is no change in engine noise. Vehicle operates normally during gauge fluctuations.
I noticed the seat belt restraint does not tighten up.
I changed all four oxygen sensor.
I also only drive in O/D should i not drive that way in the city.
Every morning when the engine is cold and when the engine warms up for the day it runs great
the noise is intermittent
intermittant code p0193, rough idle and engine stumble
Has been leaking very little and was told because most of leak hit oil pan
Car began idling rough today; hesitant ignition. EGR valve was sticking. Have replaced the EGR valve twice in the past year and a half. If I hook a vacuum line to it, I can get it unstuck but after a while it will do it again. No engine light indicating problems with sensors, but then again, the thermostat for temp has been lit for about 5 years even though there is no problem with overheating, mechanic told me at that time that he could run a test at the price of about $80 but that it was a common fault on these cars for the light to be on. Got a rebuilt transmission little over a year ago and that seems to be having some minor hesitation shifting from second to third gear at random times. Ideas? Solutions?
It was working fine, then we had our first good freeze....end of story
but tranmission fluid is not burnt
Went throught water, check engine light flashing, engine vibration slightly and still starts...
Ttook it to a tranny shop and said it was P0732 and p0734. Told me a new transmission was needed without even opening the hood. wouldnt even let me see the machine that supposedly came up with the codes. I know these codes are for gear ratio. Any suggestions.Like shift solenoid or VSS. I dont want to replace parts unecessarily. tranny fluid is good not burnt smelling. I get bout 230-240 mile on a full tank. not sure if it goes into o/d or not.
Condensor and compressor seem to be fine. No leaks detected. Gauge hooked up, pressure builds to norm level and compressor clicks off and pressure drops. Repeats, clicking on and off. Tried refilling refrig. but no difference. Suggestions please....
Has new radiator, thermostat, cap, hoses. And still will run hot. if I stop at red light it will run hot. Start going , it will go down. When doesn't go down I'll pull over let sit for about 5 mins and start up and back to cool. Was running hot the other day and it blowed the upper radiator hose... really getting on my nerves!!!!! Help
we start car and move to much motor mechnic say is
engine computer.you know some place repair engine computer
It only happens after the car has been sitting. I have had both the front and rear brakes replaced and it still does it. And it only does it the first time I use the brakes. It is one quick sound like something is slipping into place.
cable routing diagram for rear window
i put a new starter and dont do any thing just hear the fuel pump make normal noise
front tires are sort of brown around rims and rims are always dirty dusty but the back tires are fine and so are the rims what causes that
excessive play either while driving or sitting still.
The problem only just started as the car starts inthe morning. The smoke is significant but goes away as the engine temp goes up.
this clicking is present every time I start the engiene (cold, It disappears after been runnibg for a little bit. I had check iol levels, add some MOA, and even change fuel, it kinda helped, but still there. Any idea or advice?