386
questions

changing trans mission fluid at 30,000 miles

Today while sitting idle at a stoplight the tribute started to idle lower then normal and acted like the engine was going to die. This happened several more times. After the 3rd time the check engine light came on. Car runs fine, this only happens while idleing. It is worth noting that we changed the altenator in it approx. 2 weeks ago and battery 1 month ago. thanks!

My icon of the wrench comes on meaning the power train/ throttel control. I am getting a diagnostic but a prelim said an oil change problem?

After reading this forum, I am wondering if my Tribute's problem is the EGR. I have taken car to dealer and 2-3 other mechanics to fix recurring check engine and gas cap error lights. Over the past 3 or so years, I have bought 2 gas caps and the error still occurs. No one seems to be able to figure it out. Now my car is hesitating a little when I accelerate, too. (Not sure if this is related.)So here's what happens: I get the check engine and gas cap lights cleared every year for inspection, then I drive it abt. 75 miles (per mechanic's direction), then I pass inspection, then within the month the lights come back on. It's ridiculous! But nobody has been able to fix it and they look at me like I am a dumb girl when I say it's NOT the gas cap! So does this sound like an EGR issue and if so, what should I tell the mechanic to do/check?

i have a v6 24 valve i replaced the spark plug and plug in module the gap on the spark plug is currect i heard that its a common problem with this engine because of moisture is this true how can i corrected

2004 Tribute Stalls at startup, low idle after opening throttle for 2 mins, dies intermittently after that idling under 500 rpm. It will run for about ten minutes very painfully like that unless i keep the throttle open, then it'll jump back to life randomly. The stalling only occurs when the engine is cold, and the engine usually runs mostly normally (idle around 750-1k rpm, so a little low) for the rest of a day or so.

I've taken the idle air control valve off to clean it, and it was already very clean. My parents just gave me this car about two months ago and the check engine light has been on since then (oxygen sensor issue). Also probably important, the fitting on the engine block for the EGR vacuum line dryrotted and broke completely off in the last two or three days at some point, and I discovered that when this problem first started. I have since replaced the EGR fitting.

Car engine begins to whine/whistle and when slowing to stop, a/c slows down and radio/radio lights go off. Sometimes the engine and all electrical shuts off. When turning off engine to park, there is a click-click-click that continues for a while and when doing this, the engine will not start, you cannot move the gear shift from park, and you cannot lock the car doors (electric). Eventually it will stop, and then you can start it again.

Just prior to these problems, we had the alternator and battery replaced by the local Mazda dealership. These "symptoms" started the day we picked up the car and have grown increasingly worse. We've taken the car in three separate times, for a total of 7 working days and 2 weekend days. The first time, I pulled up and turned the car off, it made the click-click noise and wouldn't start or lock. I made sure they saw what it was doing. They called a few days later and said they could not replicate the problem and didn't know what was wrong with it and to bring it back again when it is acting up, we drove it in a few days later and my husband rode with the tech to be certain they would acknowledge it. The car powered down and the radio shut off when they came to a stop. They kept it several days and still didn't know what was wrong with it. They claim the alternator "components" checked out okay. We brought it back again and left it for two more days when it started failing completely, all electrical and engine shutting down without warning. They said it failed once when a porter was driving it, but started back up and they don't know what it is. I think they put in a faulty alternator, but I'm no mechanic. What could it be? Could continuing to drive the car as we have cause more damage to it? What would you do??

The car stumbles at cold start, but runs fine when the engine warms up

CEL (check engine light)

It happened once before,,approx 2 months ago. this is the 2nd time. The diagnostic ( don't know the code ) but it says it's in the 4th cylinder. Thanks so much for any help!!

the thermostate isn't sticking

It seemed to be running better after changing the fuel filter, but now it just doesn't want to run smooth. Its not all the time but most of the time. What would you do next?

What or how do I fix or repair the problem to stop the sputter and turn the light off?

the vehicle will not start

Vehicle had front pads and rotors at 85K miles now has 108K miles

car will restart but dies when it is put into gear. The car works fine when it is cold or only run for a short time.

Sometimes it runs fine and then starts misfiring. Rain seems to make it worse.

My son's car has been running rough and the engine light is on. Acceleration is very sluggish. The diagnostic report is:
P1406 - problem with differential pressure feedback sensor downstream hose is disconnected or blocked, have checked and no obvious thing found.
Any ideas before we spend a heap of money fixing every other than the problem?
Regards
Sum

I cleared the code once but it returned within 50 miles.

What could be broke and what would be the name of the part?

Took kids to school, worked fine. Came home would not start. Husband jumped started it. Will not stay charged up like no charge in battery? Have been driving it with no major isssues.

car quit running while driving.restarted once or twice.towed to shop,they initially thought timing,major engine prob.finally diagnosed bad ecm n maf sensor replaced both with new parts.still getting code p0102 mass or volume air flow circuit A low. car runs but will occasionally stumble at any speed,under load or not.also will feel like it shuts off for a second at times while driving causing a violent thump from engine mounts

Car dealer stated the above needs to be replaced-- would like to know the estimated cost + labor for these repairs

Problem only when cold. Have friend run codes with his machine and we have replace numerous parts including O2 sensor, vacuum lines, throttle control valve, and new plugs & wires. nothing has solved the problem.

we are getting the run around from the dealership and need second opinions

p0193 code

Today I went over a friends house to check out her car. When I tried to start the car it only continued to crank but no start. Sounds like a normal crank. I checked and verified there is good spark. Fuel pump is running. This leads to my first question. Is there and where is the test port to check fuel pressure? I didn't see anything under hood. I finally got the car started after cranking it four times for about 30 seconds each time. It ran rough and died out. It did this two times then I gave it gas to keep it running. When you press the gas above 3,000 RPM the engine runs smoothly and when you stop pressing the gas it runs rough for about 7 seconds then dies out. Checked for codes with aftermarket scanner and had P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire stored. Removed intake to access #1 cyl. then swaped coil from #1 cyl. to #6 cyl. and spark plug from #1 cyl. to #5 cyl. Put everything back together and erased codes. Vehicle started and ran rough. Scanned for codes and retrieved a P0306 Cylinder 6 Misfire. Simple enough I need a coil so I thought. Replaced coil in cyl. #6 which was originally in cyl. #1. Ran vehicle and it still runs rough as it did when I first got it started. Scanned for codes again: P0302, P0304, and P0301. Cylinder #1, #2, and #4 misfire. I disconnected cyl. #2 coil wiring and engine idle did not change. I disconnected cyl. #6 coil and engine ran rougher. There is a large hose that goes from the upper intake on right bank side to the lower intake at the rear of engine. Where it attaches to the upper intake it is a rubber elbow which collapses when the engine is running in open loop and closed loop. Checked the hose for blockage and found nothing. Reattached hose at lower intake and sucked on hose (yumm) and noticed no restriction. I was able to get it to not collapse by putting pliers around it and ran engine. Still runs rough but did not collapse. I think it collapses because the rubber is weak. I looked over repair pal's advice colomn and saw a couple places where people mention intake gaskets failing. I sparyed brake cleaner around intake and noticed no change in engine RPM then sparayed carb cleaner around intake and still notice no change in engine RPM. Do you think it's the intake gaskets? Any help would be appreciated and Thank You.

wHEN COLD it hesitate for a while , is hard on gas & DO A WEIRD NOISE WHEN RIDING COLD TILL GET TO NORMAL SPEED.

When I turn my heat on, there is a burning smell coming from the vents.

what is causing my 01 mazda tribute not to go into gear when i apply the brake and start to put in gear.is it something simple to fix or will it cost alot.the problem just occured last night after i came in from work and went to pick my daughter up from work.never had this problem before now