Mazda Tribute QuestionsRefine by vehicle
gauges dead, won't start, won't come out of park
the engine rpm increases then decreases and lights get dimmer then brighter at an idle. Just changed alternator, battery, and cleaned connections. Battery is charging, all elitrical works, no codes, car still starts fine.
I was driving in the rain. Then she started to stall then a loud bang under the hood when I pulled over I left it running. I seen a chunk missing off the side of what I think is the fuel filter
I suspected the fuel pump went out so I removed the intake manifold to access the fuel pressure test port. While there I replaced the spark plugs. When I replaced the pump the engine problem started. I swapped the coils and spark plug with #3 but the problem didn't follow the swap.
I have replaced two catalytic converters and my alternator on this car now the cam pully bearing is gone out. What next
Everytime it rains the car will not run properly. Sputters and misses. Moisture is building somewhere???
recently had oil changed, replaced fuel filter. I was using gas from one specific location an changed due to price (same octane 87 which is what the manual suggests) The knocking didn't start until after I changed stations so after knocking started I changed back. I'm a half tank into the original station and today my truck cuts out several times at 60-70 mph then died at acceleration speed...please talk to me!
Have spark and gas car will not start unless I do the following:
Car will start if I remove any 2 or 3 spark plugs from cylinders 4,5 or 6
To Be clear if I remove a coil and spark plug from any 2 or 3 of the front 3 cylinders the car will start and run on the remaining cylinders.
What could possibly cause this?
Madza BT 50 2008
Hi, had the compressor replaced in it about 2 weeks ago. when the weather is cool the aircon works great and blows out ice cold air but when the weather is hot the air con clicks on and off every 5-6 seconds what is wrong with it.
When I start it up while cold it has a problem to stay idling. When it is warmed up it works perfectly. Took it to garage and showed up that it was missing on three cylinders. They replaced all 6 spark plugs. Next day same problem. Went back to garage, now shows missing on all 6 cylinders. What could the problem be?
The problem begin after the big snow storm here at Willimantic CT.
changing trans mission fluid at 30,000 miles
Today while sitting idle at a stoplight the tribute started to idle lower then normal and acted like the engine was going to die. This happened several more times. After the 3rd time the check engine light came on. Car runs fine, this only happens while idleing. It is worth noting that we changed the altenator in it approx. 2 weeks ago and battery 1 month ago. thanks!
My icon of the wrench comes on meaning the power train/ throttel control. I am getting a diagnostic but a prelim said an oil change problem?
After reading this forum, I am wondering if my Tribute's problem is the EGR. I have taken car to dealer and 2-3 other mechanics to fix recurring check engine and gas cap error lights. Over the past 3 or so years, I have bought 2 gas caps and the error still occurs. No one seems to be able to figure it out. Now my car is hesitating a little when I accelerate, too. (Not sure if this is related.)So here's what happens: I get the check engine and gas cap lights cleared every year for inspection, then I drive it abt. 75 miles (per mechanic's direction), then I pass inspection, then within the month the lights come back on. It's ridiculous! But nobody has been able to fix it and they look at me like I am a dumb girl when I say it's NOT the gas cap! So does this sound like an EGR issue and if so, what should I tell the mechanic to do/check?
i have a v6 24 valve i replaced the spark plug and plug in module the gap on the spark plug is currect i heard that its a common problem with this engine because of moisture is this true how can i corrected
2004 Tribute Stalls at startup, low idle after opening throttle for 2 mins, dies intermittently after that idling under 500 rpm. It will run for about ten minutes very painfully like that unless i keep the throttle open, then it'll jump back to life randomly. The stalling only occurs when the engine is cold, and the engine usually runs mostly normally (idle around 750-1k rpm, so a little low) for the rest of a day or so.
I've taken the idle air control valve off to clean it, and it was already very clean. My parents just gave me this car about two months ago and the check engine light has been on since then (oxygen sensor issue). Also probably important, the fitting on the engine block for the EGR vacuum line dryrotted and broke completely off in the last two or three days at some point, and I discovered that when this problem first started. I have since replaced the EGR fitting.
Car engine begins to whine/whistle and when slowing to stop, a/c slows down and radio/radio lights go off. Sometimes the engine and all electrical shuts off. When turning off engine to park, there is a click-click-click that continues for a while and when doing this, the engine will not start, you cannot move the gear shift from park, and you cannot lock the car doors (electric). Eventually it will stop, and then you can start it again.
Just prior to these problems, we had the alternator and battery replaced by the local Mazda dealership. These "symptoms" started the day we picked up the car and have grown increasingly worse. We've taken the car in three separate times, for a total of 7 working days and 2 weekend days. The first time, I pulled up and turned the car off, it made the click-click noise and wouldn't start or lock. I made sure they saw what it was doing. They called a few days later and said they could not replicate the problem and didn't know what was wrong with it and to bring it back again when it is acting up, we drove it in a few days later and my husband rode with the tech to be certain they would acknowledge it. The car powered down and the radio shut off when they came to a stop. They kept it several days and still didn't know what was wrong with it. They claim the alternator "components" checked out okay. We brought it back again and left it for two more days when it started failing completely, all electrical and engine shutting down without warning. They said it failed once when a porter was driving it, but started back up and they don't know what it is. I think they put in a faulty alternator, but I'm no mechanic. What could it be? Could continuing to drive the car as we have cause more damage to it? What would you do??
The car stumbles at cold start, but runs fine when the engine warms up
CEL (check engine light)
It happened once before,,approx 2 months ago. this is the 2nd time. The diagnostic ( don't know the code ) but it says it's in the 4th cylinder. Thanks so much for any help!!
the thermostate isn't sticking
It seemed to be running better after changing the fuel filter, but now it just doesn't want to run smooth. Its not all the time but most of the time. What would you do next?
What or how do I fix or repair the problem to stop the sputter and turn the light off?
the vehicle will not start
Vehicle had front pads and rotors at 85K miles now has 108K miles
car will restart but dies when it is put into gear. The car works fine when it is cold or only run for a short time.
Sometimes it runs fine and then starts misfiring. Rain seems to make it worse.
My son's car has been running rough and the engine light is on. Acceleration is very sluggish. The diagnostic report is:
P1406 - problem with differential pressure feedback sensor downstream hose is disconnected or blocked, have checked and no obvious thing found.
Any ideas before we spend a heap of money fixing every other than the problem?
I cleared the code once but it returned within 50 miles.