Mazda Tribute Questions

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On a scale of 1 to 10 (ten being the hardest), what's the level of difficulty on this job? (I have some auto repair skills...not intimidated by most repairs.) Thank you!

Just wondering if replacing fuses would fix it. I noticed that many of the fuses control a couple of different things so Im not sure which fuses I would need to get to fix these problems if that is even the fix.

brake boost is also hising are the too tied together

is the cost I should pay and any recommendations in SLC, UT market for repair

Initially sounds like #4 & #6 cylinders fire on start up after that its like they aren't receiving fuel. The injectors tested ok and we visually checked them with the intake manifold off and they do receive an initial spray of fuel. The coils & plugs tested ok with a strong spark. When we disconnect cylinder #5 we notice an immediate drop in the engine and a backfire from the fuel. When we do this on 4 & 6 there is no change in the engine,no backfire and the plugs are not wet. We've reset the PCM with no change, the fuel filter is new, all plugs are new, all coils were checked, all injectors were checked, all connectors were checked. as far as I can tell the way the wiring harness is made you can't misconnect #4 & #6 connectors.

with it. I need to know if it will be worth my money to buy and fix or leave alone.

Will not stay running unless I hold the key in the starting position then it's trying to run but when you let the key go it sometimes runs and then sometimes dont

I have replaced two coils and plugs on 2001 tribute but it only last about a month and blows another one out. Why would this happen and what is the repair advise??

I am having a high idle problem..with car running and you hit the gas it takes a while for the rpms to return to normal. I have replaced EGR, IAC which did help a little and cleaned the MAF. upper and lower intake gaskets replaced as well...engine runs smooth as silk and when idle comes down it idles perfect. no check engine light is on and no codes...any ideas??

It is a faint flicker of the oil light, when I am at high speed and then slow down, as in highway traffic, the light flickers. When I go back up to highway speed it stops flashing. It does not do it if I am not on the highway.

Thought is was motor mount. Engine dips when put into gear but also rear end is making a clicking metal sound when trying to go. Feels and sounds like I am dragging a bike under my car.

My mazda tribute will not start I charged the battery and replaced the starter. When I first replaced the starter it would try to turn over but it wouldn't start I tried a couple of more times and now it won't even try to turn over. I'm not sure if the battery is damaged or it's something else. It's a 2002 mazda tribute es 6 cyl. Please HELP!

took car in for ck engine light , they changed out cyl #5 and chanced spark plugs, ck engine light went off but still problems, after taking it back 3 times they changed cyl 5 again and it worked great for about 2 weeks, engine locked u, it was out of oil so i guess my question is did all these repairs, was oil drained or oil doesnt have anything to do with it,i keep my oil changed so not sure what happened

Until it only comes on when it's switched to number four! Something to do with capacitor? Sylenoid? What part do I need to replaced and where it's located?

I just had the ignition housing assembly changed out and 2 recalls done at the dealer.Recalls on the electric power steering assist which they reprogrammed the power control module and ignition control module second recall was the Engine cover modification safety recall where they modified Engine cover and installed a kit.After having all this done I now have #2&3 bad coil packs and plugs.But No Check engine lights come on at all.I've never had these problems with it sounding like it wants to kill at idle or runs ruff and bucks after I get going.This didn't never had this problem til after they I got back from dealer.Since my check engine light doesn't come on like it should could it be something they did when reprogramming computers for recall or the Engine Modification recall??? It ran good before just don't understand.Thanks for any advice and help!!!

I think my alternator is bad but the pass headlight won't cut off. but nothing else at all can get power not even the door locks unless i hook a power source. it will cut off when your driving to. and then I could drive all the way home with my headlights on but if I turned the fog lights on it cuts off. The whole time it runs after you jump it all the lights dim constantly. any info would be greatly apreciated.

I've been having intermittent starting problems.I changed out ignition switch, coil antenna sensor and no change.had starter checked with meter it wasn't getting voltage. Took starter out and tested at shop it tested good.So We assumed no voltage is getting to starter from relay or sensor or switch.Battery good altI good.Locksmith said key lock and keys are good.Took it to dealer they said ignition housing assembly is bad.My question is what does this housing have to do with the Starting of the engine? Is there a main ground that is attached or power source that cranks engine? ?? I thought the Housing just holds switch key cylinder and sensor.I've never gotten into a wreak or never was ruff with steering wheel.I hope someone can explain this to me clearly.The housing comes with the says I don't need the other parts I can use same ones.Please any help would be appreciated.

Was driving alongn suddenly I'm pushing the pedal and nothing is happening--sounds like in neutral. Coming to a stop light--no brakes. Swerve to miss vehicles stopped at light--no power steering. Not focusing on car crisis at that moment because I have someone in the car with a medical emergency. Have to get it stopped and call an ambulance. Had to just have the car towed because I needed to go on with the person in the ambulance. Am being told vehicle is showing no oil pressure. No dash lights (oil nor check engine)on prior to car stalling. Don't know mechanic looking at vehicle. Out of my area when event happened. Any suggestions or critcal questions to ask the guy to be sure I am being given accurate information?

I've used one new key for about 5 years then I started having problems with it starting only when it wants to.So I used second key then worked fine until 8 months ago it did the same thing as first key.only starts when it felt like it and when it did crank over it ran beautiful!No dieing out nothing just when I stop it then took forever to start.The last 3 weeks has become harder to start.So I had a locksmith look at my key lock and it's all good.Then I bought a ignition switch from dealer and a coil antenna sensor changed those out and the same I just put the original two parts back in.I had the starter tested with a meter for voltage and no voltage so I had starter removed and took it to be tested it tested good.No current or voltage seems to be reaching starter from main things like switch, starter relay etc to crank it.I also checked relay only by testing fuse box which is fine took out relay and put back in there is no way of testing the starter relay unless I ordered a new one which I didn't do.I checked all fuses related to starting all are fine.My pats security theft light is working like it should there is no fast flashing which will indicate a key trqnsponder issue.My key seems to work fine and unlocks/locks good.All my dash lights work like it should and no check engine lights come on.I've never seen a vehicle do this ever.when I try to start it I can only hear the fuel kick in like it should and a little clicking sound from the black fuse box where relay.My battery/altinter are both good.What else could be the problem? Could it be crank shaft, Trans sensor etc? Thanks for reading this.I know it's long and Thanks for any help you can provide!

I had a front and rear converters replaced to the cost of $2700 for new parts and labor. within 2 weeks the check engine light came back on for the same problem. the engine is spitting and sputtering. the car is undriveable. any suggustions?

Sputters when startup,idling,inclines. Seems to wants to cut off when idling and cuts back and loses power at low rpms when trying to accellerate. Code 303 and 316

the Cats failed and caused a loss of power exctely like limp mode but no codes, after clearing exhust restrictions and re testing the high pitched squeel like belt slip had gone and the engine runs but missfires on cyls 4/6, swapped coils and plugs fitted new injectors and manifold gaskets still missfiring now suspect Ecu ? have strong spark at coils and I believe injector pulse is at the same source as coil pulse LOST FOR IDEAS ????

Starter,battery,alternator all new....already tried fuel reset button also

when I put my car in gear it will die on me

My ABS light stays on and the 4WD light flashes off and on about every minute or so. Also the speedometer says im going way faster than i really am and bounces up and down. U also can actually feel the brakes acting crazy

for several days it would crank after a few tries. starter is turning over. it's like there is no power from switch to starter. it's not cranking at all

Further, I have a gas cap indicator light that has been on for a week or so. What is that? Are the two related?

Pressure is good but still blows hot air. Fuses and relays are good. Is it possible that there's still something wrong with the compressor?

I don't use the a/c only heat but it appears the clutch is going. Upon inspection when we use the heat the a/c clutch kicks in and starts vibrating like crazy and that's while idling. Is it possible to take the a/c out or at least detach the belt and have my truck run fine?

i live in kazakhstan! they sent me different one so i don't know to what car it fits and how to identify it? thank you.