391
questions

It usually comes on after about 15-30 miles. If short trip it will not come on.
This last time it came on and will not go off
The air pressure is fine in all tires including the spare.

found a 5A labeled EEC pulling 7 DC volts a 30 A HTD SEAT pulling about 7-9 volts and a BTN! 40 A pulling 12 volts I have had the alternator changed out no help I had to install a kill switch to get around the battery problem I would like to know what this could be....

Thank You
davidg718

Twice brought to mechanic to adjust height. He said he bled brakes but no change in height. Sometimes my foot catches corner of gas pedal when I apply brakes.

Sometimes I have to rock the car or park it on an incline to hear a click so that it will start again after I have turned the car off.

How do I change this myself?

I checked the oils water battery could it be the starter

down to the bulb socket but Mazda doesn't sell just the socket, you have to purchase the whole tail light assembly. I've tried three of these (made in Taiwan) and the bulb socket is still doing the same thing. To make sure it was the bulb socket I switched it with the side that was working and got the same problem. I've taken it to the dealership and called Mazda customer service and no one can help me.

What to do next?

once you put the key in and start car when you turn it off it will turn engine off. but key will not turn all the way off & lock & come out.

Changed EGR valve less then a year ago

battery and alternator check out ok

it's only noisy inside the car, it cannot be heard outside the vehicle.

A repair shop found no problem they sprayed carb with spray and it started but not this time has new battery this is 2nd time have 82,000.00 miles on car.

01 Mazda Tribute with a 3.0 V6, FWD. Has an intermittent dying problem. No specific conditions cause this, and it always fires right back up. Usually runs really rough before it tries to die. Also, the odometer blanks out, and the speedometer and tachometer randomly drop to 0 and go back to where they should while driving. All of this is intermittent. Check engine light also comes on and off while this is occuring, so I decided to hook up my scan tool. No current codes for ANYTHING, and during the times the tach and speedo quit working, my tool will not communicate with the vehicle. There are some history codes for the IP Cluster module. They are U1262 - SCP Data Fault for J1850 BUS. And also B1318 - Low Battery Voltage at Module. There is a ground wire attached to the frame just above the firewall that shorted out and has a break in it, and I feel that it may have caused these codes because it has been fine until that wire fried. On the engine side, there are now a few new memory codes... P0352, P0355 and P0356 which are Ignition Coil Primary/Secondary Circuit Fault for B, E and F. P0356 is now "Pending". Any help would be appreciated!

this has happened twice in very heavy rain and also in the carwash. What could be the problem?

I finally decided to take in my 2005 Tribute to the local dealership, and after 2 days they told me the PCM was burned out and I needed to replace it at a cost of $1700. They also said it was a good idea to change out all 6 coils and plugs at a cost on an additional $1300. So I am looking at $3000 in repairs. My question is, is this reasonable costs for these repairs and is it necessary to replace the coils also? Do I have any other options on getting this thing fixed cheaper somewhere else?

I changed spark plugs and coil packs but yet it's still missing and engine light came back on. What can it be?

The engine won't start but it has lights and horn and radio but the SUV is dead it won't start

code shows cylinder #2 misfire, wondering if the valve cover gasket leak has anything to do with the check engine light throwing this code out? Thank you