Mazda Protege QuestionsRefine by vehicle
happens gradually at about 5weeks and continually gets worse until i have to replace them. I have replaced all plug wires. The electrode end of spark plugs look good. It arcs from the base where the porcelain insulator goes into the metal. They dont all arc at the same time . It is erratic and the car idles fine with an occasion mis. The hotter the engine gets the worse it gets especially under load. I had it put on computor and it says that i have bad spark plugs but it doesnt say why they keep going bad.
how hard is it to chance the struts
Coolant leak on '91 DOHC Protege coming from the seal between coolant bypass tube and the water inlet housing that attaches to the water pump. There's no clamp; only a rubber seal that fits over the end of the bypass tube.
The seal is very loose on the bypass tube, and is also too large to fit inside the inlet housing - is this supposed to be a "presses against the end of the housing" fit, or is the seal supposed to allow the bypass tube to slide into the housing?
Alternatively to replacing that seal, I'm wondering if I should just get a short piece of hose and clamp it over the connection.
Anyone with knowledge of this issue?
Transmission about ready to go? I hope not. I have a '98 Mazda Protege with 115,000 miles, 4cyl auto 1.5L. Seems to be maybe 2x a month I'll turn it over and if I get to around 25 mph it'll rev and redline and not want to shift into 3rd. If I continue driving for about 5 or more minutes it'll shift fine, but I've got to go s l o w. If I stop, turn it off turn it over again it'll drive fine. Haven't taken it to a mechanic yet but I fear the worst... Any insight is appreciated!
I have had it checked more than once and they said it is noting mechanically wrong with it. Sometimes it loud and sometimes its really loud, especially after raining.
what could be making my car idle so rough when i done changed my filters and replaced my fuel filters and my plugs and wires as well?
changed filter screen on fuel pump,new fuel filter,new distributor cap and rotor,new wires and plugs,at my wits end also voltage regulator replaced,please help
mechanics don't know why the light goes on and off. sometimes for days at a time.
sometimes it will not go completly into park, when this happens I have to jam it hard into park
I have a busted carriage bolt to the engine and need to get it repaired. How much does it cost to fix this at a shop.
TODAY MY CAR BEGIN TO JUMP AND THEN THE SPEED BEGAN TO DECREASE. ALL THE LIGHTS CAME ON AND IT CUT OFF. I TRIED RO START IT UP AND THE LIGHTS CAME ON AND IT STRUGGLED TO START. I GASED IT WHILE TRYNA START IT AND IT START BUT THE SPEED DECREASED AGAIN. NOW IT SEEMS AS MY BATTERY IS DRAIN AND WHEN I START IT UP ALL THE LIGHTS BARELY COME ON. IT MAKES A LOUD "TICKING NOISE". I DONT KNOW WHAT IT MAY BE. PLEASE HELP ME.
I have run a wire into the drain tube and cleared it.All I can figure out is that the evaporator needs cleaning where is it located and how can I clean it?
I have a a 1.5L 4 cylinder with an automatic transmission
I put diesel fuel in my gas tank and started the engine, how much will it cost to fix it.
when the AC button is pushed in and I turn the fan from 1 or 4 to 2 or 3 speed, the A/C green light goes off and the compressor stops running (clutch engaged)
The manual said something about an AC amplifier. Where is that located and how can I test it?
The noise is loud and annoying. It only acts that way when i first turn it on or when im at a complete stop with my foot on the brake. the higher i turn the air up the louder the noise becomes. ANY ADVICE?
I recently heard this noise and knew right away it had something to do with my tank or so i thought. so i got rid of that gas and put a different brand and with a higher octane level. Then i put some lucost cleaner in the tank. Now the noise is still there, maybe I'll try some octane booster? Im not sure but i know it wil become a problem eventually..... Any advice?
where is the transmission pump located
SUPERBOB,I UNDERSTAND, BUT I DID 12,000 ON THESE BRAKES,MOSTLY, STOP AND GO.
I DID 12,000 IN 4 YRS. I ALSO NEED ROTORS. SHOULD I TAKE IT TO ANOTHER MECHANIC?
hello, was told brakes have 20% left and should be changed. how low can they go and be safe?
how do you adjust back drum brakes
water pump licking, the car is over heating
while i was driving i notice the o/d light flashing then the engine started surging the chek engine light come on and stays on as i accelerate th enginethe trans mission started shiftinf for otself as i park the engine suddenly dieid out istarted again it started and then ied again i started and accelerate then it did not died work for awhile then the engine started vibrating what is the problem is it the speed sensor/
Car stalled today at stop sign after driving a block. Put in 'park' and restarted. When shifted into drive I felt a slight hitch in the gear. Drove a couple of blocks, car stalled again. This repeated a couple more times then stalled completely. Towed to mechanic who diagnosed problem as failed fuel pump. Installed new fuel pump and filter but the problem remained -- wouldn't start. What do you think could be the problem? Thank you
battery shows oozing from postivie cable?
SEEM WHEN I WARM MY CAR UP AND BEGIN TO DRIVE OFF THERE BECOMES A LOUD SQUEAKING NOISE. IT ONLY HAPPENS WHEN ITS COLLD OUTSIDE. WHAT MAY THE ISSUE BE?
TODAY, I SAW DIRT ON POSITIVE CONNECTION, ON BATTERY, THE CAR RUNS WELL,I WANT TO KNOW WHERE COULD THE RESIDUE COME FROM?
click click click noise appears each time I appy my brakes gradually
every time i apply my brakes graduall i hear the click
click, click sounds
transmission slips a little at takeoff but shifts fine through all the gears and od. but in reverse slips bad like a bad clutch then shudders and goes into gear.let off throttle it acts like its in neut. again. i have to get the rpms up to 1000 to 1500 the car starts moving shudders then engages in rev. 130,000 miles on car. any help would be apreciated thanks.