Need to get this open being that this thing likes to eat oil. Any way to manually open ? I can hear sloenoids activating but not releasing main latch. Over engineered for what should be a simple mechanical cable release.

ive changed my alternator and battery .. checked wire harness etc. but cant get it to charge the only code it throws when i hook it too witec is bad coilpack ..it does have a lil miss in it

Its only clinks and rattles when i start the car and during gear changed .

gas needle does not work properly, it registered 1/4 of tank, had just bought it recently and never let it get below a 1/2 tank, anyway was running out of gas and was pumping gas pedal like a madman, to try and make it to gas pump. check engine light is now on or it flashes, and runs and idles rough til I get to 60 mph or so. Help. Thanks

There is no indication of over heating but sometimes when I turn the car off it smokes under the hood

Ignition key turned off and on to accessory repeatedly and now car will not start. Will turn over but not start. Getting no fire to plugs.

two belts popped off engine (alternator to power steering and alternator to ) and now car is overheating and very hard to turn wheel. do I need to replace water pump?

Scan came back code p0306, Took it to the shop and they found WATER around my #6 cylinder. Number 6 cylinder is misfiring. The sputtering is constant when sitting but will go pretty good when I press the gas. Was told possible cracked head/gasket. I need help!!

During overnight, the battery is drained off, and the car would not start without giving it a jump.

Can anything be done to fix

The ac & heat can not switch back and forth when this connection becomes loose. I just need to know where it is and what it looks like

All the gauges go up then come back down. And no radio?? The car starts and runs.

I bought a 2000 Mazda Millenia about 6 months back, knowing it had the problem. What happens is once I start it I have about 10 minutes of it working perfectly fine. After 10 minutes I can no longer get the car over 2500 RPMs. When I try to get it over 2500 it jerks back and forth. But, I do not think it is temperature related, because if I turn the car off (including in Neutral, if I am on the highway) for about 10 seconds then turn it back on, it resets and it drives just fine again for 10 minutes as if I just started it.

Any ideas?

Codes P0732, P0734. Also a code indicating pressure loss? How to diagnose the problem?

I have changed wheel bearing, tie rod end, and upper lateral link on passenger side and its still feels loose like the bearing is bad or lugs are loose.

If I press the peddle more than a 1/4 down it dies! If I barely accelerate it will stay running! Any answers!

Good and its firing crank sensor is good and the compression is good on all cylinders