Mazda Mazda6 Questions
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After puttin neutral for a few seconds then returning to drive it's ok. Tran fluid is ok. Could this be an electrical or computer issue??
I am trying to remove the valve cover but can not figure out how to remove the wire housing that runs across the left side of the valve cover (the camshaft sensor wires also run through this housing.). However, there's a deep plastic piece that is very small and deep with a bolt through it and where the valve cover meets the head it looks as if the bolt has been welded. I need to remove the valve cover but can not get the two bolts on each side of the wiring housing. How can I remove those bolts?
But it also struggles when i get below 1000 rpm. What is the most likely issue?
I removed my head unit when I put it back in all of the following stopped working: LCD screen display, head unit, climate control illumination, and my defrost and a/c. I have already checked my fuses 5 times over.
also engages gears harsh when accelerating or decelerating this only seem to happen once I've been driving for more than 30 minutes. Do these transmissions have solenoids?
When it snows or rains. Have replaced windshield and ruled out leak coming from firewall and hood release
But only for 15 20 miles took it to shop hooked up the emissions its not reading my car anyone have any idea why. Please and thank u
Ok, there are two things that went wrong, that lead to my mazda not starting.
the gas gauge started reading a quarter tank when completely run out of gas. then a few weeks later it read 1-1/2 quarter tank of gas when it ran out. then finally a half tank. now it wont start, but when it finally gets started up, it puts and sounds horrible, then when you barely tap gas pedal, it instantly dies. the engine hesitated for a couple days, then on the second day it finally would not start.
the shop i took it to to have it diagnosed said it was a cracked intake manafold.
is this a part i would easily be able to change myself? and what tools would i need?
Here is the problem with my Mazda 6 2006.
I start the car and drive for about 30 minutes. When I get back home and turn the car off, and try to start the car right back up its ok.
If I wait 30 minutes and try to start the car again, the car will not to start. Its wants to turn over as the car does when it runs but it sputters and doesn't start.........If I wait an hour, the car starts right up again and rungs great.
The car runs fine while I am driving for up to 15 minutes or 20 minutes. It seems to happen after the cars runs for at least thirty minutes and will not start again for about an hour later.
Today, I just started to heard the fuel pump when I turn the ignition into the on position.
It is an i-Touring 4 cylinder.
distinct 1-3 second lag sometimes when I accelerate from a stop, especially when engine is cold, or when turning a corner. I suspect a fuel line filter, or fuel pump glitch.
When I started by car this am, the engine sputters for a bit then stalls after 20-30 seconds. Also, when I press on the gas it doesn't "rev" at all. Is it something with the transmission??
The check engine light continues to show. There isn't anything wrong
it keeps popping off i have to hold it so that it trickles into the tank
First code was P0401 (insufficient egr flow) had it cleaned, where there was very little carbon build up. A couple weeks later light came back on, but then went off the next day. Two weeks after that light comes back on and rode a little rough, then tried to get on thw freeway and it started jumping and check engine light started flashing so took it in. Threw a P0302 (misfire cylinder #2) they replace all spark plugs and my #2 boot, and engine coolant hose connector. Same day we drove over 100miles to my mothers as soon as we got off the 70mph freeway it started idling rough. Now day 3 it idles rough and runs rough (jumpy between 60 &70) no code thrown after almost 300miles are our tune up. What could it be?? :-(
All the way sometimes whats wrong
The battery was replaced a few days prior to the incident. It started up as a rough idle and then it would not crank any more. The battery is good because all lights etc come on
My car has had loss of power. Biggest issue> My hazard light comes on spontaneously & locks breaks. I pull car over. It shakes back & forth and I'm unable to drive, as if the breaks have locked on me. So, I turn car off and then back on and problem goes away for the day, but never fails to happen the next day or two. Its been occurring more lately. I took it to a mechanic & they said it was defiantly the throttle body.