Mazda Mazda6 QuestionsRefine by vehicle
But only for 15 20 miles took it to shop hooked up the emissions its not reading my car anyone have any idea why. Please and thank u
Ok, there are two things that went wrong, that lead to my mazda not starting.
the gas gauge started reading a quarter tank when completely run out of gas. then a few weeks later it read 1-1/2 quarter tank of gas when it ran out. then finally a half tank. now it wont start, but when it finally gets started up, it puts and sounds horrible, then when you barely tap gas pedal, it instantly dies. the engine hesitated for a couple days, then on the second day it finally would not start.
the shop i took it to to have it diagnosed said it was a cracked intake manafold.
is this a part i would easily be able to change myself? and what tools would i need?
Here is the problem with my Mazda 6 2006.
I start the car and drive for about 30 minutes. When I get back home and turn the car off, and try to start the car right back up its ok.
If I wait 30 minutes and try to start the car again, the car will not to start. Its wants to turn over as the car does when it runs but it sputters and doesn't start.........If I wait an hour, the car starts right up again and rungs great.
The car runs fine while I am driving for up to 15 minutes or 20 minutes. It seems to happen after the cars runs for at least thirty minutes and will not start again for about an hour later.
Today, I just started to heard the fuel pump when I turn the ignition into the on position.
It is an i-Touring 4 cylinder.
distinct 1-3 second lag sometimes when I accelerate from a stop, especially when engine is cold, or when turning a corner. I suspect a fuel line filter, or fuel pump glitch.
When I started by car this am, the engine sputters for a bit then stalls after 20-30 seconds. Also, when I press on the gas it doesn't "rev" at all. Is it something with the transmission??
The check engine light continues to show. There isn't anything wrong
it keeps popping off i have to hold it so that it trickles into the tank
First code was P0401 (insufficient egr flow) had it cleaned, where there was very little carbon build up. A couple weeks later light came back on, but then went off the next day. Two weeks after that light comes back on and rode a little rough, then tried to get on thw freeway and it started jumping and check engine light started flashing so took it in. Threw a P0302 (misfire cylinder #2) they replace all spark plugs and my #2 boot, and engine coolant hose connector. Same day we drove over 100miles to my mothers as soon as we got off the 70mph freeway it started idling rough. Now day 3 it idles rough and runs rough (jumpy between 60 &70) no code thrown after almost 300miles are our tune up. What could it be?? :-(
All the way sometimes whats wrong
The battery was replaced a few days prior to the incident. It started up as a rough idle and then it would not crank any more. The battery is good because all lights etc come on
My car has had loss of power. Biggest issue> My hazard light comes on spontaneously & locks breaks. I pull car over. It shakes back & forth and I'm unable to drive, as if the breaks have locked on me. So, I turn car off and then back on and problem goes away for the day, but never fails to happen the next day or two. Its been occurring more lately. I took it to a mechanic & they said it was defiantly the throttle body.
Are these my 02 sensors
Apparently fuel pump isn't getting power...
All the fuses were checked - those that were burnt were replaced and checked again
All the relays are working (based on the fact that they were placed elsewhere and checked)
I get the reverse light, but I don't get the reverse beeping sound.
So all in all the engine won't turn over...
Took my car to Midas and they said I had a bad transmission leak around the pan and they quoted me 210$ to fix it. Then a short time later called me back and said my car had a different type of transmission that required 3.8 hours of labor. Estimating 410$ to fix it. Are there two types of automatic transmissions in this car?
I bought it as a second hand car dealers in Japan. The car dealer told me the O2 need to be changed. The day it was serviced by Mazda Amtec, the check light disappears. But after driving for less than a kilometer it reappears again. The car perfomance is so good as I was driving it for almost three months. I sent it back to Amtec Mazda and they told me to change the oxygen sensors, the catalytic converter must be changed as well. So Im now confused. So what is the real problem now. There are no codes shown on the dashboard. I just noticed in the morning when you start it produces a white smoke from the exhaust pipe and it disappears after some few minutes when the engine is running.
not sure how to fix or whats gone wrong
The guy that replaced my alternator brother the plug/connector that goes into the alternator. He got some wires and spliced them did it that way. Could this be why the battery light is coming on still?
I own a 2003 2.3L European JMZGG 166HP Hatchback Mazda 6. My engine's nikasil coating is damaged after putting chrome plated piston rings in 1000 miles. I'm willing to avoid this problematic engine with its balancing shaft preventing from proper oiling the middle cylinders. I would like to put a regular 2.0 liter engine as they seem to last longer and are affordable. The gearboxes are the same. I know I have to swap both the engine and the computers, but what about the wire harness. Will it fit? My engine has vvt and uses spark plugs. The new 2.0L mazda engines (After 2006 including I think) use ignition coil and have vvt. Can somebody tell me if I can swap an engine from 2.0 with ECU, which year this car should be (pre or after 2006) in order to keep my stock wire harness.
The engine looks like this: