367
questions

When I started by car this am, the engine sputters for a bit then stalls after 20-30 seconds. Also, when I press on the gas it doesn't "rev" at all. Is it something with the transmission??

The check engine light continues to show. There isn't anything wrong

it keeps popping off i have to hold it so that it trickles into the tank

First code was P0401 (insufficient egr flow) had it cleaned, where there was very little carbon build up. A couple weeks later light came back on, but then went off the next day. Two weeks after that light comes back on and rode a little rough, then tried to get on thw freeway and it started jumping and check engine light started flashing so took it in. Threw a P0302 (misfire cylinder #2) they replace all spark plugs and my #2 boot, and engine coolant hose connector. Same day we drove over 100miles to my mothers as soon as we got off the 70mph freeway it started idling rough. Now day 3 it idles rough and runs rough (jumpy between 60 &70) no code thrown after almost 300miles are our tune up. What could it be?? :-(

All the way sometimes whats wrong

The battery was replaced a few days prior to the incident. It started up as a rough idle and then it would not crank any more. The battery is good because all lights etc come on

My car has had loss of power. Biggest issue> My hazard light comes on spontaneously & locks breaks. I pull car over. It shakes back & forth and I'm unable to drive, as if the breaks have locked on me. So, I turn car off and then back on and problem goes away for the day, but never fails to happen the next day or two. Its been occurring more lately. I took it to a mechanic & they said it was defiantly the throttle body.

Are these my 02 sensors

Apparently fuel pump isn't getting power...
All the fuses were checked - those that were burnt were replaced and checked again
All the relays are working (based on the fact that they were placed elsewhere and checked)
I get the reverse light, but I don't get the reverse beeping sound.
So all in all the engine won't turn over...

Took my car to Midas and they said I had a bad transmission leak around the pan and they quoted me 210$ to fix it. Then a short time later called me back and said my car had a different type of transmission that required 3.8 hours of labor. Estimating 410$ to fix it. Are there two types of automatic transmissions in this car?

I bought it as a second hand car dealers in Japan. The car dealer told me the O2 need to be changed. The day it was serviced by Mazda Amtec, the check light disappears. But after driving for less than a kilometer it reappears again. The car perfomance is so good as I was driving it for almost three months. I sent it back to Amtec Mazda and they told me to change the oxygen sensors, the catalytic converter must be changed as well. So Im now confused. So what is the real problem now. There are no codes shown on the dashboard. I just noticed in the morning when you start it produces a white smoke from the exhaust pipe and it disappears after some few minutes when the engine is running.

not sure how to fix or whats gone wrong

The guy that replaced my alternator brother the plug/connector that goes into the alternator. He got some wires and spliced them did it that way. Could this be why the battery light is coming on still?

I own a 2003 2.3L European JMZGG 166HP Hatchback Mazda 6. My engine's nikasil coating is damaged after putting chrome plated piston rings in 1000 miles. I'm willing to avoid this problematic engine with its balancing shaft preventing from proper oiling the middle cylinders. I would like to put a regular 2.0 liter engine as they seem to last longer and are affordable. The gearboxes are the same. I know I have to swap both the engine and the computers, but what about the wire harness. Will it fit? My engine has vvt and uses spark plugs. The new 2.0L mazda engines (After 2006 including I think) use ignition coil and have vvt. Can somebody tell me if I can swap an engine from 2.0 with ECU, which year this car should be (pre or after 2006) in order to keep my stock wire harness.

The engine looks like this:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78799909/2300cc.jpg

change the tcm. code u0073.After no code present. but same problem is there.

I have a 2009 mazda 6 (V6 grand touring - push start) with about 60k miles. Had an 06 mazda 6 and never had any issues so I don't even know where to start. It started with the engine not wanting to turn over or taking awhile to do so. Called the dealership and they said no big problem they could get me in next week. As I'm driving home today I start to smell sulfur but thought it was from the construction site I was going through. It doesn't go away and my car still smells like sulfur (rotten eggs) hours later. I try leaving the house a few hours after I got home and my car now won't turn over at all. I try again like the car manual says and now it isn't turning over but I also can't get it to turn off. The engine isn't on but the battery has everything powered, dashboard is all lit up, lights/radio/AC are all on and the push start will not turn the car off. I turned what I could off but still I know it will eventually drain the battery.
Honestly don't know anything about cars and take it to the mechanic when a light comes on; so I'm just trying to see if there is a way to get my car started, if it is safe to drive, or if I need to just call AAA to tow it?
Any help is greatly appreciated. I have a starter box to jump start it in the morning but I didn't know if you could undo the battery while the car was on. Don't want to blow anything up.

switch is set to off not door. lights at the bottom of the door stay on and are draining the battery we took the bulbs out but how do we fix it to where the lights work when set on door?

I have a U0101 code loss of comunication with the tcm, where is it located and what would be my problem

Problems which includes; repairs, fuel consumption

It has 3 not ready checks: catalyst, evap sys, O2 sensor. I installed a new battery about 3 months ago, before that I had to jump start the battery a few times. Since the new battery and the initial inspection, I've driven about 2000 miles but these 3 areas won't reset. I've tried the drive cycle couple times also. What can I do to fix this problem? Is there a cheap fix? I