my car has had a new starter, alternator, and battery installed in it. It will turn over, but will not crank. When I turn the key to the on position I can hear the fuel pump and it seems like it has enough pressure. what could be the problem?

When the car went over a very rough railroad track at a high speed, it shut down. the engine would turn over, but not crank.

If let idle smooth out before put into gear runs fine. If drive before smooths out drops OBD code P0604 (misfire cyl 4). Checked all 3 available cyl (4,5,6) and compression is good at 160, plugs are new and resistance is same for all 3 so don't think I have a bad plug or coil. I have switched plugs/coils and get same code/same cyl.

If restart later with engine still warm no problem, idle is smooth, can drive immediately. I have also replaced dirty air filter, and cleaned throttle body and MAV sensor. Vacuum lines look fine, and no changes when spray with carb cleaner with engine at idle. No change noticed if pull vacuum line off EGR. I also have run seafoam and marval mystery oil at high concentration for 75 miles thru gas to see if injectors sticking. No noticeable difference. Looking for suggestions.

i drove my car to a few places with no problems. stopped at a store and shut it off. went in to grab a coffee and went back out to leave. car was off for about 15 minutes. went to start it but when i turned the key my gauges started bouncing around and lights would flicker. car will not start. checked my battery and it tested fine also checked wires and fuses. any idea what could be wrong?

low beams repeatedly replaced. If you rap outer headlight lamp low beams comes on (seems to be a common problem). When restarting lights may not come on, but if your bang headlight lamp they come on again.

Wen I pull away its driving, the moment it must switch over to second stage it went in to a high rev,the car won't move, than my lump light go on, I replace new gearbox oil but it still do that, please help me what to do. Thanks

How much would it cost to fix/ replace the orings so that the a/c would work again

After puttin neutral for a few seconds then returning to drive it's ok. Tran fluid is ok. Could this be an electrical or computer issue??

I am trying to remove the valve cover but can not figure out how to remove the wire housing that runs across the left side of the valve cover (the camshaft sensor wires also run through this housing.). However, there's a deep plastic piece that is very small and deep with a bolt through it and where the valve cover meets the head it looks as if the bolt has been welded. I need to remove the valve cover but can not get the two bolts on each side of the wiring housing. How can I remove those bolts?

But it also struggles when i get below 1000 rpm. What is the most likely issue?

I removed my head unit when I put it back in all of the following stopped working: LCD screen display, head unit, climate control illumination, and my defrost and a/c. I have already checked my fuses 5 times over.

also engages gears harsh when accelerating or decelerating this only seem to happen once I've been driving for more than 30 minutes. Do these transmissions have solenoids?

When it snows or rains. Have replaced windshield and ruled out leak coming from firewall and hood release

But only for 15 20 miles took it to shop hooked up the emissions its not reading my car anyone have any idea why. Please and thank u

Ok, there are two things that went wrong, that lead to my mazda not starting.
the gas gauge started reading a quarter tank when completely run out of gas. then a few weeks later it read 1-1/2 quarter tank of gas when it ran out. then finally a half tank. now it wont start, but when it finally gets started up, it puts and sounds horrible, then when you barely tap gas pedal, it instantly dies. the engine hesitated for a couple days, then on the second day it finally would not start.
the shop i took it to to have it diagnosed said it was a cracked intake manafold.
is this a part i would easily be able to change myself? and what tools would i need?

Here is the problem with my Mazda 6 2006.

I start the car and drive for about 30 minutes. When I get back home and turn the car off, and try to start the car right back up its ok.

If I wait 30 minutes and try to start the car again, the car will not to start. Its wants to turn over as the car does when it runs but it sputters and doesn't start.........If I wait an hour, the car starts right up again and rungs great.

The car runs fine while I am driving for up to 15 minutes or 20 minutes. It seems to happen after the cars runs for at least thirty minutes and will not start again for about an hour later.

Today, I just started to heard the fuel pump when I turn the ignition into the on position.

It is an i-Touring 4 cylinder.

distinct 1-3 second lag sometimes when I accelerate from a stop, especially when engine is cold, or when turning a corner. I suspect a fuel line filter, or fuel pump glitch.