Nothing in the truck is working. Not even any of the little indicator lights. Whats puzzleing is I tested the battery and it was fully charged. The other odd thing was it was working perfectly an hour before this happened. A friend and I were in the truck looking at the interior thinking of things that could be done cosmetically. We were turning lights on and off then, but no real work like opening things up or removing anything; just looking. During that time the systems did turn completley off just as they remained after about an hour of leaving the truck. However, right after they went off then, we were able to get everything working again after a few trys. Again, an hour later after turning everything off the truck went out completley. Whats going on here??

Had a brake job done but that did not fix the problem. Mechanic said his computer could not read thad old of a model. The lights come on after about fifteen minutes of driving.

Under load when warm, 150,000k misses violently, push clutch in it disappears!

A few years ago I saw a mechanic because it was not blowing cool air. He put in a little coolant and replaced the AC Clutch relay. Worked good. For a while I've heard something cycling, it was my AC condenser. Not much cool air again. I replaced the relay again and the cycling stopped, until I selected AC. It now continues to cycle constantly again, AC on or off...Suggestions?

Dash indicator light dosen't come on.When turned to accessory nothing,no radio.Headlites do come on.Already replaced ignition switch.No help.Any ideas

Truck started running a little rough after i change the battey and air filter. After recieving codes ( p0316 ,p0301 ,and p 0300 ) from autozone I went ahead and changed plugs and wires but truck still jerky especially when trying to accelarate after switching gears. ( misfire occured during first 1000 engine revolutions .code P0316 ) ( misfire at cyl 1 detected code P 0301 ) ( AND P0300 random misfire detected )


asking about 98 mazda 4 wd problems what to check for.

worked once when i bought it..seen lots of rust underneath and pressurewashed it. replaced ground wire on both sides of frame, lubed back pully on transmission real good. now the light in dash wont come on or 4wd kick in.

i was told i need to know the torque spec and how much grease to put in

Changed plugs, wires, rotor button, cap, pcv valve, egr valve, what else would create what I think is a power drain?

Yet again, I have another question: Where can I find the bolts to remove the cab of the Mazda? Yet again, the manual fails to explain anything about the cab, or important items to allow me to remove the part which require repair. I can find them on the underside of the cab, but have no idea how to get to them from inside, or any other areas necassary.

I am replacing the drier/receiver and would like to replace the orafice as well.

i just put 5w30 full synthetic, is it ok to switch back to normal oil?

slave cyclender

Bulbs are good, flasher relay good. Not sure if turn signal switch is bad. Is there a way to tell if switch is bad?

I replaced my clutch,pressure plate,slave cylinder and clutch master cylinder. I attempted to bleed the air from the system but not sure whats happening. The clucth pedal has a little stiffness, but the truck will not shift into park or reverse without first shifting it into gear then start the truck and go. It will not disengage but will shift and drive after starting. what could be the problem? slave cylinder bad? clutch disc jammed? or just air in system how ca i tell?

clutch does not engadge

runs poorly, check engine light on, have replaced maf sensor numerous times. same problem occurs frequently.

sensor problem ? thank you tom

I need to replace the horn for a inspection sticker, but i can't seem to find it. I look in the manuals and they have no say in it. I've looked down my the bumber and in the center of the grill. Where would I find it?

i already did fuel filter , spark plugs and wires ,air intake and air filter , transducer "cam sync" , cam positioning sensor . yet i still have an idle issue but no longer an engine light so ???????????????????????? why would my truck idleing so high ?

My A/C broke on a drive up CA's Central Valley in the height of this last summer. I'm on a budget and figured I could just do without A/C. About 2 months ago the engine began to make these pinging sounds, like a bunch of marbles bouncing off each other in the engine bay. It's been progressively getting worse and worse—the sound is louder and occurs with more frequency. There is no check engine light, however. From opening up the hood it looks like the A/C unit is making the belt stick on the front of the engine. Is this a problem? Am I going to be paying for a larger repair if I allow this to continue?

can the coil quit working with out any signs of trouble or is there another issue

problem occurs when fuel level drops below 1/2 tank full or when stopped on a hill.

Change the starter,altonator,and the battier,and still won't stay charged?

I shifted into reverse backing out of a parking space and as I was backing up there was a loud "bang" like I ran into something so I stopped and pulled back into the space. I looked around and there was nothing I ran into or over so I started to back out again and reverse did not work. All other gears work fine and when I shift into reverse I hear a slight "whining" sound like the transmission is not quite shifting all the way into reverse.

after service,in Botswana,after changing spark plugs

Purchased my '98 B3000 used with a few glitches, most are repaired now but the last thing to tackle has been a series of 5 beeps repeating when operating the vehicle, the air bag warning light was out and I just replaced it. Now the light is blinking a series of 2 and then 7, repeating. I assume this is a code defining a certain problem and this light stops blinking after turning the passenger air bag off. Any suggestions how to proceed from here?

I replaced the radiator since the original began to leak. I replaced the thermostat at the same time. The truck began to overheat immediately after that replacement. I thought it could be the new thermostat since the temperature gage would show that after the engine began to warm up, the temperature would appear to go all the way back down past the C on the gage and would then spike up to the hot mark far enough to make the check gage light flash on, but would then go back to about the normal setting. I replaced the temperature sensor just to make sure the readings were correct. I then went to Mazda and got a new thermostat from the dealer. It will still begin to warm up, then the gage will recede toward the C on the gage, then spike upward, although not far emough to make the check gage light flash. Earlier this week, the cooling reservoir hose actually got forced off of the connection at the radiator cap. I put a clamp on it. The next day, the lid was blown on the reservoir and it appears to have tried to split at the seam since it will now produce bubbles along the seam. What am I missing? I had the waterpump replaced last winter not long before the old radiator developed the leak. I also tried 2 new radiator caps just because I didn't know what else to do. Any suggetsions would be greatly appreciated at this point.