Mazda B3000 Questions
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problem just occured yesterday, idles at about 800 rpms ROUGH!! when put in gear. it will try to run but then dies, when i manipulate the throttle manually wide open or half it runs fine but as soon as i let go it will putter out and die if i keep my foot steady on the throttle at 2000rpm it seems to run fine but again when i let off to put it in gear and try to drive it just dies. ( abs and emergency brake light on )
car misfiring underload,replaced plugs and ht leads. car ran perfect for a week, all of a sudden it cut out and would not start, replaced battery still wont start rac came out and said, no spark and no injector pulse. he did not have the right diagnostic machine.so unable to help.has anybody got any ideas. regards dave
It happen every times we stop engine?
Dash light comes on indicating 4 wheel drive has been activated, but it is not in 4 wheel drive. Truck runs fine in normal 2 wheel drive. What could be the reason?
Any pictures of what to look for would help
I drove home, pulled into my driveway and put the truck into Park. I thought. But it didn't seem to go. I shut off the engine. Wish I hadn't. The car rolled backwards. I tried to restart it but it wouldn't even try. Probably has to be in Park to start. Tried starting in Neutral but it won't even click. Transmission fluid seems okay. Couldn't check it running. Just happened tonight.
Had a problem one time, just the other day. Went to start truck at lunch, wouldn't turn over. Lights come on in dash, radio would play, chimes chimed. Made no clicking noise, no trying to turn over, nothing. Went out after work and it started right up. Does this sound more like a relay problem or an ignition problem? truck has a new battery and a new starter. Purchased truck a year ago and had problems with starter then, so replaced. Then before winter came, replaced battery with an Optima.
I towed it back home to run some test. Long story short it has good fuel pressure, and good spark. It will also crank over just fine but I cant get it to start, even with starter fluid. Im baffled? Please help
My windshield has a giant crack in it and i need to replace it but cannot afford a brand new one and need to find something comparable in the junkyard.
The heater screw is loose and dangling. There is a bolt located directly below the heater core - it takes an L wrench (allen key) but will not move. Do i need to loosen this lower bolt? - if so, how?
both motors are from a b3000
The indicator lights are flashing 4 high and 4 low at the same time
one mechanic said 80.00$ plus parts others 300 t0 500
Heres the story, fuel pump and filter were changed a few months back and every since its been throwing the check engine light. We assumed it was because the seal didn't go on properly. well now that my truck is throwing codes left and right, I looked into it and its not even the right fuel filter. Its a G9796 and im supposed to have a G1059, and so the lines move around on the filter and there is a little gas on the lines as well. Now with that problem would it cause a bunch of other codes to go off as well? Im throwing:
Sec Air system
A/C Refrig mon
EGR system mon
P0306 & P0442
And I noticed there was somehow a funnel lodged in behind the oil filter as well. Will that throw codes too? PLZ help me!
recently it locked up the front wheels, & i could only move fwd by locking hubs & going into 4wd. while this is happening the rear wheels spin trying to move forward.it goes backwards w/o a problem, even if frnt is locked. lots of noise under truck
Does it snap into hose connected to pcv or do it snap into its housing
Went to shop and was told I need to replace pcv tube. I have a check engine light on. I'm burning a lot of gas. No power after 80 with the pedal to the floor unless I'm going down hill. I'm also getting a code to replace oxygen sensor bank one and two. they have been replaced still getting same code.
when the transmission is removed how is the slave replace
Connectors were found to be leaking badly. The tubes were badly damaged and broke off, have no idea where to get replacements.
his name isn't rookie it's rawketstarling
He asked about why his truck would stall after he'd been driving it awhile. The answer given was to get a diagnostic. The diagnostic would have to be hooked up when the problem occurs to see what sensor is being tripped. It just does it sometimes. Very frustrating. I think it's one of the sensors tripping. But how do I know which one it is? I fixed some vacuum lines and it didn't do it for a long time. I wish I knew what to fix. His ? Has all the details. My truck does the exact thing. Sometimes, when its hot, it kills the engine. Sometimes it takes a lil while, sometimes a long while to start again.
We have checked wiring, freon, couch. Anything else I might ck?
I've changed just about everything still won't start
I took my truck to autozone and had the codes read. it came up with a misc misfire and misfire on cyl number 6. the check engine light only flashes when i sit at idle. i replaced spark plugs and wires. replaced the coil pack and i still have the rough idle and flashing check engine light. this only happens at idle. i lift the rpm to 1000 or higher and it goes away. any insight or help will be very helpful
Replaced master and slave cylinders and clutch bled the lines replaced master again and the slave still isn't moving at all that I can see through the inspection plate
I turn my key on and everything works but when I go to crack it nothing happens and anti-theft light is blinking.
Changed all spark plugs and wires about 2 weeks ago,check engine light has been on for a long time,and wind shield wipers come on by themselves,or sometimes when I use the blinkers
Do you need a special tool to change the cmp
Had a small hole in small hose running from thermostat housing to tee in lower radiator hose.Since replacing this hose the heater temp in cab is slightly warm and the temp gauge in dash reads cold.does not appear to be an air lock and have replaced the temp sender.Also what is this small hose for?