Mazda B2600 QuestionsRefine by vehicle
I recently acquired a mazda b2600i and I fixed a leaky valve cover on it. It ran get for about 2 months and then I noticed I needed to do an oil change bad, so the plunger may have been clogged during this period. I put 10w-40 synthetic in it, then about 2 weeks later it starts to tick from the around the valve cover. I got a stethoscope and put it on the fuel injectors and cylinders #1 and #3 injectors sound like they're ticking. But it doesn't run bad so that's why I believe its the lifter/s. It has 208k miles and my friend has the same model that lasted for 325k before it needed any major work.
It has good get up and go lots of power- but when you shift it rakes a little when you change gears.
1987 4 cill 2 low compression
My Mazda 2600i misses sporadically. I changed wires, plugs, distributor and coil. Sometimes it runs perfect but later begins to miss. I used injector cleaner with no results. Spark plugs were not wet or Black.
The pickup when started will only go in reverse. You can not go forward. The man that had pickup said it would need a transmission. Is there anything else that could cause this problem?
I have a 1993 Mazda B2600 with the stock 2.6L 4 Cylinder in it. The rockers are making a ticking noise like they are depressurized but when I check the oil level and all of the seals they are fine. The rockers themselves just got replace 1,000 miles ago so I know they're good. Previously when this nose would happen if I added oil then it would go away, but now my oil level is full and its still ticking. Does anyone know why they are making this noise and how to fix it?
Truck will run once in a while for about 10 to 15 minutes and dies and will not start. It has spark an the injectors are working fine. Replaced everything I can think of. Any ideas would be great.
There is a rod knocking..what will it take to fix it?
Put two thermostats in it and a new headA new head gasket new head
When push on gas pedal starts stumbling wanting to cut out
Intermittent problem sometimes it runs fine but other times it will start fine and run for a few seconds then start to die and coughs and splutters the idle changes to 1000 rpm and wont rev over 2500 rpm no matter weather free rev of under load if you hold it flat it goes to 2500rpm and holds there and coughs and you can hear pops under the bonnet like a quiet backfire
We replaced the key and tumbler part of the ignition, and the MAF, and bypassed something to get electricity to the fuel injector. The truck starts and runs well until it gets warm then it begins to choke.
They cant seem two find it . they charged me 500.oo so far and my truck still not starting to be
I have one ticking lifter.I removed the valve cover to take a looknd sure enough the exhaust valve on the #2 cyclinder is the problem looks like the plunger where you set the lash is stuck or clogged.Is there a way to remove it from the rocker without disassembeling the entire rocker arm?
Just put a new clutch n pressure plate in and now it wont go in gear.only does when engine is off.
my truck idles high when it is cold when the engine gets hot it still idles high, it stays around 2500 rpm's with your foot off the accelerator.
Do I have to remove the whole grille and if so how is the grille connected at the bumper?
Shifter feels like its not attached to anything
what should I b lookin for
Just bought truck, but was told this power loss happened quickly. All I replaced was the mismatched set of plugs with new correct.
will turn over but won't fire - distributor assembly has been replaced
Using a spray bottle, as long as I spray gas into the throttle body it runs fine. I put light on the injector powers and when they light up it try's to run. Help!