Mazda QuestionsRefine by vehicle
looked everywhere under dash/steering column/near fuse box
I have changed coil packs made sure everything's lined up change the sense you're at the bottom of the motor and getting ready to do the crank sensor but it overheats would I be better off just getting another motor there is no thermostat in either so I have to do timing belt and everything
The a/c is cold but very little air is flowing from the vents.
Driving home today the AT warning light came on. The car felt like it got jerked. No noise it just felt odd. Light wasn't on for long but it kept happening. I pulled over turned off engine. When I tuned car back on put it in drive, light to signal in drive, neutral or reverse didn't come on. The AT light was back on but now the check engine and TCS/DCS Indicator lights were on too. I made it home. Can I drive the car? On average what is the cost for repair? AT Automatic transaxle is what my manual says
In any gear, at any RPMs, at any engine temperature, if I apply the accelerator normally, the car bucks violently. I can overcome it somewhat by increasing the RPMs to 4000-5000 and slowly engaging the clutch but it's still rough. At idle it hunts at low RPMs between 500-800 at about a 1 second interval, never settling. Vacuum on the manifold at idle goes between 15-18 rhythmically. MAF sensor, clutch, and spark plugs have been replaced recently but did not change the symptoms. Cleaned the throttle body with SeaFoam spray. I ran the throttle idle calibration and it helped the idle a little but driving is still not any better. Nothing seems to change the way it runs. Any ideas?
My vehicle came with a receiver mounted on the back but no rv light plug. I installed a 4way plug by pluging it into the exiting wiring . Also installing a 7way plug to fit my trailers 7way plug.
Now I'm trying to install a brake controler on the dash but I don't know if there is a factory installed plug in for the controler under the dash or I need to run new wires to hook it up ?
Loud knocking noise when driving
I downshift but it still gets slower & slower. I had to drive in 2nd at about 20 mph on a 6 to 7% uphill grade. Doesn't use oil, runs great in the city.
I have a 2007 CX7 and want to replace the timing chain, how much would it cost
My a/c stopped working. a/c coil bad. replaced w new coil, new pulley w bearing, new clutch plate w (old) spaces, new a/c stretch belt.
drove it about 5 miles, a/c stopped working. Clutch plate turned intermittent. installed (new) spacers which were thinner than old ones. heard noise when a/c turned on. replaced spacers again ( one new, one old) noise stopped, clutch engaged. let a/c run for 20 minutes, but a/c clutch and compressor stays on continuously....afraid pressure will continue building up and rupture a/c hose.
the car starts smoothly but cuts on 2rpm
Itemized estimate for transmission that includes detail like: parts, labor, teardown, fluids, core, seals, ect. Then states at the bottom does NOT include shop charges and taxes.... What are these vague shop charges? & why not list the estimated shop costs in the estimate?
I took the car to get an oil change and when i got back home and turned it off and tried to start it again it will not crank at all. A friend told me to replace the main fuse under the hood and it keeps blowing. Could it possibly need a whole new positive battery cable? Thanks in advance.
Had compressor replaced 4 times. Entire system once, other issues occur every summer with MVP.
Also have 2009 Mazda5, bought new from dealer, that needs compressor replaced.
Dealership repairman says it's due to hot Florida weather & constantly using A/C- fine, for 2002 MVP which is my Florida car, but the 2009 is an upstate NY car.
Any help will be appreciated.
It's stuck with the chair more to one side than the other and I can't drive it
I need a yearly emission inspection
I SUV has 46000 miles on it, my a/c stop putting cold air out it went back freon check is full but there's a noise coming from under the hood sound like may be about dirt compressor or something like that going what is it and how can I fix it
Already did the timing on it more then ones all I fixed was the water pump on it..
Mint condition - stored winters/summer car - replacement ABS module (cost is $850+) for part; total labor $1200. Should this computer part bomb on such low mileage -- do I have any recourse other than Mazda dealer?
parked the car ,smoking blueish out the tail pipe ,ever time i drove still smokes until sat it run for about 20 mins no smoke at all and yes it has oil in it ,not running hot still has power what happen
I took my 2012 Mazda 6 in to do emissions and inspections and my OBD reading wouldn't connect. I was told the computer is not reading. I took my car to Autozone and O'Reiley's to double check and neither of them could get it to read. Now what?
Cruse control not working rifht
if the water pump, front engine seals, drive belts,idlers, and tensioner along with the belt are in good shape and still good do I have to still pay to get it fixed?
Adjuster wants to total it. Your opinion? Beautiful car with only 69,000 miles. It was in perfect shape. Heartbroken.
Lights all stay on all the time
bought car used,no spare key, need AAA every time son locks key in car
What is the connector x309 for? What does it connect?
I have taken it to a transmission specialist and got green lights on every thing but for some reason when I hit around 75 or I slam the petal it sputters.. like it down shifts upshifts like hioping gears its not the transmission or the sparkplugs I think it might be the tps sensor any thoughts?
I replaced the crank pulley and in order to keep the engine from starting I unplugged the coil pack. The engine ran just fine before I unplugged the original coil pack. Now even with new coil pack I get no spark. what could it be?