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Mazda Questions

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4,501
questions

Turns over but no start,changed filter ,still nothing doing it my self 3rd time ever help I beg of you

1987 4 cill 2 low compression

I need to take out a loan to get my undercarriage replaced and I have no idea how much its going to cost. I failed inspection because I was told I have giant rust holes that are dangerous to anyone looking under the car.

I have tried NGK but doesnt seem to work well.

This problem started when fuel got finnished and the car started jerking

He told me the car wont start and that it needs a new $500 computer. He said he replaced the relays but didn't mention fuses. Help please!

it will crank without a hitch and not even attempt to kick over

dual sport, has oil leak top of oil filter

Before new sensor car ran great light was driving me crazy now if maf sensor on it runs rich n cuts out take sensor off n it idles n runs fine again I'm on 292nd mechanic that does not have a clue codes only read maf sensor what to do

when the engine warm up and I press clutch pedal the engine decelerate

No pwer to fuel pump. Relays seem to check out. Have spark. fuel pump not kicking on when go t sat art car resulting in a crank no start problem. All of this after I hit a bump in road and car died

The mazda dealership recommends having the intake valves cleaned, to remove carbon build up, at 25,000 miles. Of course, something they don't mention as routine maintenance when you purchase the vehicle.

cold start = no power, rough running for 1-2 minutes until warms. must allow to warm before can move and have engine respond to accelerator.

How do remove dashboard/step by step?

I recently chamged out the c5ankshafy plate, did 20 stomp reset to clear the pc memory, changed plugs and wires, new oil chamged out, new anti lfreese put in after SSV removal & cleaning, still getting same codes and car will not accelerate like it has no power but revs over 2500 RPMs so I dont think its in limp mode...Can anyone help me out with possible fixes?

Idles good but wont rev pass 1000 RPM

Check settings and read the manual. No explantion

Start relay OK, Key switch OK, starter motor functions, if I jump starter relay,, range switch on trans OK, the only break in the line between key start & start motor relay is the start interrupt relay that I cannot find location to disable and then start car Now all dash ;lights come nomally, but turn to start and no reaction except anti theft light on dash blinks when attempting to start

When I come to a halt at a red light my car stutters. If I don't keep the RPM's at 1000 the car will stall. I've replaced spark plugs and wires, but the problem has yet to disappear. Any ideas to what may be causing this problem?

Also would anyone know where I could get cheap parts like bumpers, fenders etc?

I was going 60mph on the freeway and heard a loud revving sound, I then noticed as I pressed the accelerator, my car wouldn't go any faster. I got off the freeway and got onto the street, my car would keep making that same sound every time I would hit 40 almost as if it wouldn't change to the next gear or something... My car only has 106k miles on it.

It is underneath the manifold

Mazda6 is there any call backs in ns for this car.I just recently took mine to the garage and have to have all lines fixed baring in the front and more....

Starting fluid will make it fire. Acts like no fuel, great fuel pressure. Perplexed. Don't have any codes as am in rural Alaska

If inhit any kind of bump either one of my dim or fog lights go out, i have replaced them and immediately they go out

What can i do to prevent this from happening again

It will not start because it wont start

Im having an electrical issue where when I start the car, the rear window wiper blades run, when I use the left blinker, the blinker and the security light comes on, and when I use the right blinker the hazards come on. Also, when I pop the hood, the horn goes off until i disconnect the battery. and the positive cable will not tighten on the battery anymore. I also had an issue today where the check engine light and the TCS and slippery road warnings came on. Once I disconnected the battery and reconnected, those disappear. What are my options and how much will this cost to fix.

94 Mazda 626, 2.0, standard. Installed a used throttle body and idle air control valve, new plugs and wires, o2 sensor, fuel filter, air filter, distributor cap and button. I took apart the IAC and cleaned it. I'm pretty dog gone sure the springs and etc are correct. When I try to start it, it only starts on second and third try and I have to pump the petal several times for 5 seconds plus to get it to idle. It has hesitation when petal is pushed. Biggest thing I noticed was a strong smell of gas/fumes out the tail pipe but after 1 hour of trying to adjust timing by ear the new plugs and o2 sensor is covered in black powdery soot. I also noticed that when I put pressure on the throttle-spring on the throttle body where the cable goes in the opposite direction ( as in thing to close it more the car seems like it will idle better. What could be the problem and what steps do I need to take to start eliminating and checking the problem. Thank you

Why does the engine rattle even when it's on Park and I accelerate there's a rattle in the engine compartment

The distribuitor is new end cranshaft. Sensor