Lincoln Town Car QuestionsRefine by vehicle
My 2006 Linclon Town Car L-series has a oil leak which seems to be almost intermittant. Sometimes little oil and other times lots of oil. Any ideas on what it might be? Had it up on a rack and it did not appear to be coming from rear main seal.
The transmission went out on it and it has been sitting and the battery is dead. The keyless entry hasn't worked sice the battery went dead, but I could get in the car with the key. Now the key won't turn in any of the four doors.
how do i replace seals an baerins in this model car,dont have money.need your help.
tanks town car, 1990
dope leaks out of rear wheel
how do you clean a dirty throttle body without spraying on it or in it directly ??
engine has begun to run rough and the check engine light flashes.
had started to list on one side/service center suggested I fix problem
how do i replace the fuel pump
replaced 15 amp fuse for the Heater and airconditioner...blows after 2 minutes...where do I look for shorts?
My car will crank great somedays and not have any problems. Other days it does not want to start, will not idle properly and will cut off on me. No lights are showing, no codes are coming up on the engine analyzer.
I have P0420. How do I determine if the fault is the rear 02 sensor or the cat. The way I understand this the rear 02 sensor waveform is supposed to "mirror" the front 02 sensor waveform, but at a reduced amplitude. Also. the rear 02 sensor amplitude is supposed to be below 650mVdc max. If either of these conditions can be verified the cat has to be bad if I get P0420 since the 02 is apparently working correctly. Is this correct or am I confused on how this works.
1999 Lincoln Town Car Brake Light Problem
Recently, while doing "literature drops" for a local political primary election, I drove a 1999 Lincoln Town Car slowly along the street, doing the "curb-side crawl" while another volunteer went door-to-door leaving brochures about our candidate.
This caused me to have my foot on the Service Brake for approximately 5 hours, almost constantly.
Later that day, while in a Wal-Mart parking lot, I couldn't get the column-mounted gearshift out of the "PARK" position.
Knowing that the car couldn’t be started without this Brake Pedal Switch engaged, I examined the area around the Brake Pedal, and found a broken wire coming from the Brake Pedal Switch. It had apparently broken through where an after-market remote-starting system had been tapped into the existing wiring (thus allowing the remote-starting system to start the car without depressing the Service Brake Pedal). Up until this point, I didn't know the car had an after-market remote-starting system, and had never used it, so I just disconnected that wire and tucked it out of the way. I also noticed that the black plastic plug attached to the Brake Pedal Switch was partially melted (indicating excessive current flow through the switch).
I removed the melted plug, and used jumper leads with “alligator clips” (which I bought at Wal-Mart) to jump from the remaining wiring remnants under the dashboard to the Brake Pedal Switch (and left the excess “alligator” wiring tucked under the floor mat). However, I still couldn’t get the car out of “PARK.”
I telephoned a friend who owns a limousine service, to see if he ever encountered this problem with any of his cars. He hadn't, but he accessed a "LincolnForum" website from his office computer and talked me through a procedure which involved:
(1) Applying the Parking Brake
(2) Turning the ignition key fully counter-clockwise
(3) Returning the ignition key back to the "insert" position
(4) Removing the ignition key
(5) Re-inserting the ignition key
(6) Applying the Service Brake
(7) Turning the key to the “ON” position (but not the “START” position)
(8) Moving the gearshift lever into the "NEUTRAL" position (which releases the Parking Brake)
(9) Starting the car in the "NEUTRAL" position.
(10) Moving the gearshift lever into the “DRIVE” position.
This allowed me to get the car home, but the procedure above disables the rear Brake Lights.
This seemed to work for a while, but during the next "literature drop," with my foot almost constantly on the brakes again, one of these temporary leads melted (I could actually smell the melting rubber insulation on the jumper wires.)
Something must be drawing an unusually high amount of current through these wires.
I again replaced the "alligator" jumper wires with a new set, and continued the "literature drop" by periodically putting the gearshift into the "NEUTRAL" position while driving along a fairly level street. Also, since I noticed one of these leads was always “hot” whether the car was running or not. This, I suppose, is so that the Brake Lights will come on, even if the car isn’t running.
I left the “alligator” jumper wires disconnected overnight.
This prevented a constant electrical flow through the Brake Pedal Switch and the jumper leads from melting anything again. I wondered if the Brake Pedal Switch was defective.
When my friend's junkyard opened on Monday, I took a replacement Brake Pedal Switch and plug with wiring, from a junked 2000 Mercury Grand Marquis (the switch is identical), and installed it onto the 1999 Lincoln Town Car, using "wire nuts" to connect it to the existing wiring remnants under the dashboard, where the melted plug had been removed.
Brake Pedal switch
The problem is, I still have to use the 10-step procedure above to get the car out of the "PARK" position in the morning, when I first start the car. I have been leaving it in "NEUTRAL" with the Parking Brake set while the car is parked, but this requires me to leave the key in the ignition, as it can only be removed in the "PARK" position. I only do this when I am leaving the car for short periods of time, or where I can keep an eye on it. I still put the car in “PARK” and remove the key and lock it overnight. Then, I have to go through the same 10-step procedure in the morning in order to use the car at all.
The additional problem is, I still don't have Brake Lights. I have been turning on the Parking Lights as I come to an intersection, thus simulating the Brake Lights, for the benefit of the cars behind me, but I cannot continue to do this indefinitely. During the "literature drops" aforementioned, I just drove along slowly with the Emergency Flashers on. This was mainly on very quiet suburban streets over the weekend, with minimal traffic.
However, if I want to use the car for normal travel, especially in heavy traffic, this is not practicable.
I was wondering if there might be a "fuseable link" somewhere that may have burned out, causing the Brake Lights not to work. This could have occurred when the “hot” lead to the Brake Pedal Switch touched some metal under the dashboard. I have checked and swapped out the appropriate fuses (#8 and #20), with no change in symptoms.
I also temporarily re-connected the after-market remote-starting system with an “alligator” jumper wire, to see if that made any difference, which it did not. It is now, once again, disconnected.
I have not checked the light bulbs yet (although I took some extras from the junkyard Mercury). I find it unlikely that they would have both burned out simultaneously.
door ajar light stays on and so does the inside light
the inside lights do not trun off all the doors are closed but the door ajar light stays on
I went a got a brand new battery and when I try to start it I get nothing at all. With the hood up, you can hear a tiny little tick, but that is it. Is this a starter if I never had any sign it was going out? Or could it be solenoid? Or is there a way it could be the "brain box" it is loaded with all the fancy gadgets and gauges etc. Any help appreciated!
I went a got a brand new battery and when I try to start it I get nothing at all. With the hood up, you can hear a tiny little tick, but that is it. Is this a starter if I never had any sign it was going out? Or could it be cylinoid? Or is there a way it could be the "brain box" it is loaded with all the fancy gadgets and gauges etc. Any help appreciated!
has any one had to replace the transmission on their lincoln town car?
is it normal for the air compressor for the rear suspension to kick on every time i turn the ignition to on or start the car.or could it be a leak? its a 98 lincoln town car with fairly new compressor and rear airbags.
blower motor is good. it has auto climet control. were is the blower motor speed controller located.
The dealer wanted $1900 !
whats the cost of rear springs for 93' lincoln ?
My town car has been aligned 3 times already and still I cant pass inspection.The mechanic says there is no more room to adjust.is this possible? where do you adjust the front wheels so I can see for myself?
How can it be more expensive ? Shocks are 28$ per .
I want to replace my air shocks with standard shocks.
MY 180,000 MILES LINCOLN TOWNCAR TEMPERATURE GAUGE GOES ALL THE WAY UP WHEN I TURN ON MY AIRCON. I JUST RECENTLY WENT TO THE MECHANIC TO PUT SOME FREON ON THE A/C SYSTEM, BUT AFTER ONE DAY IT GOES UP THAT WAY. I NEVER HAD A HEATING PROBLEM BEFORE WHEN I WENT TO THE REPAIR SHOP.
The car was left to me and i dont know the keyless entry code. So how can i find the code without going to dealer? Where can i find the code?
pulley in front of water pump how to remove it already took out 4 bolts
why does transmission fluid leak everytime I start it up and after I cut it off and let it sit for a hot sec
Steering will not turn to neutral after completing a turn , resistance felt when I turn back to center, riding over bumps seem to shift steering direction some what. What are the likely causes of this problem? 88k miles
Where is the fuse to unpower the CD player to hopefully reboot ?