Lexus RX300 QuestionsRefine by vehicle
check engine light on constantly - Code displays "no connection", when put on machines. Any ideas of what the problem could be.Lexus in my town kept car for a week and could not diagnose the problem.
I have owned since 25,000 miles. has 125,000 miles. Fully maintained. Just put new brakes on. Did Right Front wheel bearings at 100,000 miles. Other than that no problems. What kind of mileage do you see comparable cars lasting to? Is it time to trade in for something else?
how much does it cost to replace the ignition coils in the RX300
We are getting a motor mount vibration according to the dealer. Is it possible to replace them and what is approximate cost?
car overheating and then suddenly cools, sounds verymuch like a bad thermostste
The passenger door lock does not work any longer.
I noticed my check engine light come on, and i also get a knocking sound when i try to accelerate.
In addition when i am accelerating, the check engine light flashes. I also noticed a burning smell, what can be the issue. it is a 1999 lexus RX300
This has occured many times in the last few weeks, i have been told that it is some type of control valve that needs replacement.
When going over bumps the right rear suspension klunks; everything appears to be tight as the strut and top mount were replaced with new parts. Also vibration in right rear driveline which varies with speed. Could the two be related?
I had the engine oil lite come on in cold weather and the engine knocked before I could shut it down. The bottom oil pan had sludge in it but the top looked sludge free. Lexus dealership did a dianostic and said it sounded like a main bearing failure.
po136 is code that comes up says its 02 sensor circuit malfunction bank 1 sensor 2. my question is how do you know witch sensor that is and were is it on vehicle also vsc light is on with engine light. thanks for any help.
I have a very low mileage 2000 Lexus RX300. I currently have 62,500 miles. I have taken very good care of the car and have performed every service recommended by the manufacturer. My dealer is now telling me I need $2500 repairs. Timing belt, water pump, rear main seal, cam and crank seals with T/belt. I am experiencing no problems and haven't noticed any leaks. Am I being given a snow job?
Where is the tail light relay located? Could this be my problem?
I have a 2001 Lexus RX300. Had AutoZone run check on engine & have codes P1150, P0304, P0300, P0306, P0125,P0174. The check engine & VSC light came on after I had the battery replaced 2 days ago. Sounds like serious trouble?
What would it cost to replace a locked up transfer case, which jamed up and cracked spline in transmittion which cracked front pump in transmition which cracked the fly wheel. Only part supplied by owner is a used Transfer case missing the pins, all other parts will be new. Estimate parts and labor.
My remote sometimes don't lock all my doors. I have to lock them manually. Do you think that I need a new battery for the remote control? are should I look for another solution?
This question has recently been posted - here's more detail about the problem. Vibration feels like driveline. Comes in at 20-40 mph. fades out, comes back a little at 55 with an oscillating drone. Can feel it slightly at all other speeds. Transmission has been rebuilt (geartrain hand grenaded) by a top notch shop. Transfer case wasn't touched. Supposedly, the vehicle had no vibration before the work was done - can't be verified. Diagnosis pointed to rear driveshaft section - renewed - no change. Front driveshaft section was renewed - no change. Both front axles were renewed "just in case" - no change. Got 3 ASE Certified Master Techs brainstorming on this and we're stumped. No chance of transfer case to transmission misalignment. Wondering if problem could have been installed during rebuild procedure somehow. Have done 3 more of these units in the past 6 months - no problems. Units have correct fluids. Engine RPM is not related - it's all about road speed. Vibration goes away (almost) when the load is off (as in "float"). Vibration can be felt pretty good with a manual downshift - i.e., engine braking loads the driveline and the vibration intensifies. It's definitely not tires, brakes or engine related. Not a noise - it's an actual vibration - just like a bad u-joint. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. :o)
Air conditioner blows cold air, but heater will not blow warm air. Works sometimes. Defrost and all other airflows are very strong. Is the airflow door for heat sticking or the airflow control out?
Just had my transmission replaced. Afterward, there is a vibration sound. Put in a drive line and still a vibration. what could be the problem?
Is there a difference in reliability between a OEM and an after-market starter? Also, prices vary for starters. Is a more expensive starter better than a lower price? Could you recommend a starter.
I have no electrical power, no lights, no radio, no power to the starter, no nothing. Is there a fuse that may have blown?
I have a rattle coming from front-driver's side whenever i hit a bump or make a turn. I believe is has to do with my mounting plate to my strut assembly. Do I need to tighten any bolts to my mounting plate? If so, how do I get access to them and what size wrench will I need? If not, what is cost to replace a mounting plate?
my email is firstname.lastname@example.org
My front brakes has "pulsating" feel when I brake. One mechanic says rotor requires machining and new brake pads are required. However, when i brought car for second opinion, mechanic says rotors / brake pads are still good. However caliper is frozen and will not move. Therefore, I need need calipers. I do not want to spend more than what I need to spend. What is your opinion?
I had ALL my struts replaced about a year ago. In addition, I had a rear mounting plate (part of strut assembly) replaced due to rattle sound whenever I go over bumps. Mechanic I brought car to concluded it is my front driver's side calipers. However, the rattle occurs ONLY when I go over bumps, or ruts on road. I still believe the rattle is coming from a faulty mounting plate, or a bolt is not tighten down on my front-drive's side strut. Do you concur?
My car will not start after turning the ignition key. I hear a "clickin" sound. However, after several times turning the ignition key the car will start up. First, I suspected the battery, but my dashboard lights are on. Second, I thought it could be the Alternator, but as previously noted the dashboard lights are lit after turning the ignition key. So I concluded I have a faulty starter. With the symptons I just described do you concur, as well?
What are the critical 120,000 miles service needs for my RX and ballpark cost?
leaking oil from area of rear main bearing. Using oil.
Does not always shift into 4th gear. Most days on Freeway, 70mph @5000rpm gas mileage15mpg Noisey
When it DOES change into 4th, 70mph 2800rpm silent running, 27 mpg Fluid checked, changes about town sometimes, again very quiet, efficent NEED local TRUSTWORTY technician
power door lock on left rear side is not working, need to know how to take the door panel out