138
questions

How cum it doesn't get the gears how can I fix this.

I Had EWS reprogrammed, I replaced my starter motor, made sure fuse 18 for immobilized is good, replaced starter relay, checked saftey neutral switch I have continuity on all wires and the coils look fine.. Car still will not crank, What am I missing..

The back-up lights are functional and work. The third brake light, above the lift gate also does not work. Could the recent repairs created this new problem?

so i notice my temp gauge was reading red and the engine overheat signal came on. i immediatley pulled over and had it towed to a land rover dealership. they said it was my thermastat that went bad and it would cost 600 bucks. i obvioulsy said F that and replaced it myself. Well the new thermostat is in and ould one out but my temp gauge will go from blue to red when i start it. so i left it running for about 15 mins to let the new thermastat kick in and start doing its job. Well of course the temp gauge didnt move. Here is the kicker to this. I turned the ignition switch on this morning without turning the engine on and my temp gauge went from blue to red. I have no clue what the heck is going on now.

Any advice would be awesome.

The knocking noise seems to last just a few seconds after the start up but then quiets down.

My husband changed the rear rotors and brake pads. Now I get this message, Transmission range change not available when I turn the key in the ignition. I cant switch the range out of low. I also get the message HDC fault system not available and the tire pressure light above the gas is also on. Please help...

My husband changed the rear rotors and brake pads. Now I get this message, Transmission range change not available when I turn the key in the ignition. I cant switch the range out of low. I also get the message HDC fault system not available and the tire pressure light above the gas is also on. Please help...

Radio, nav. all inoperative.

Doors have to be closed for the windows to work and if the lights turn on the fuel meter won't work and as soon I open the door and put the key the a/c LCD the speedometer lights and flor lights start flashing

I've change fluid and filter. It doesn't smell burnt when pan was off everything looked really clean. It shifted better for 3 months after I done that but after I added just a little bit of tranny fluid bc it has a slow leak and went right back to shifting at almost 4000 rpms and is down shifting really hard What else can I do or check without having professional help I've let out the little bit of fluid I added to it thinking i might have overfilled it but it didn't fix it. How does it go from not shifting properly to shift really good for 3 months then right bk to shifting like it was b for changing fluid and filter

Last spring brakes front were vibrating - dealer replaces brakes and rotars front and back. Since then, front brakes have vibrated off and on - upon inspection, after 1000 miles, they replaced pads and brakes again. Rear brakes have continued to squeak since last year. upon inspection last week, front brakes are "dark", "wearing quickly" again (less than 1000 miles) and rear brakes are "glassy" which they say is causing the squeak.

The dash and everything else lights and works display on dash says hdc unavailable
Ignition clicks does nothing else
Parked car because the front right air strut was hissing had a hole in it took it off took out the relay under hood that has a picture of the engine with a line through it
Got air strut put it back on battery was original so I bought a new interstate now everything lights up but does not even attempt to start

Do I need a simple oil change with new filter or is there another problem? I see the oil coming from the top of the oil filter housing. I did notice that the oil was very low when I checked the dip stick.

Truck every morning and several times a day when starting has to crank several times before it will catch and run. Once or twice a month it will act like there is no starter and I have to unplug the battery and wait a few minutes then try again, and It starts up like its brand new. I have been told by a so called "mechanic" ( I say that because he is a friend and never went to school) that it is the crankshaft position sensor, but i'm unsure. I read on websites that a bad or going bad CPS will cause the engine to die while it is running. My truck never has issues driving just starting.

in the fluid and it has turned to a pink type liquid. Yhe check engine light has come on.

When I compress my brakes, the pedal goes about half way down and then feels like it pops and stops harshly. I think maybe the brakes need to be changed but I'm not sure.

Lights & all electronics went out. Hooked jumper cables up to it then they all worked except the led display on the dash.

The fold in feature doesn't work as well. It folds in but wont stay in.

After putting in the starter and reconnecting all the wires and fully charging the battery i get a battery indicator light on the dash and get an alternator code when it is started and am driving it. How many volts/amps should the alternator out put be?