This just happened today. Also the check engine light just came on 2 days ago.

how can i let pressure off the system low pressure side

My car today while driving started to stall and when on expressway it does not want to go over a certain speed or it will start to jerk as if it wants to cut of I dont have any problems putting it into gear

problem or a compressor problem

My tail lights work and my pass. Side brake light comes on it's just my drivers side brake light I replaced the bulb and it still won't I'm tired of getting tickets please help?

The car idles rough below 2k rpms and has over 200k miles. There is a ticking noise and vibration that can be felt while holding the pcv valve. Going to replace the icv when part arrives.

I'm able to crank the Kia spectra up the next day.

my drivers side door will not open from the inside.

Problem is consistent and I've cleared codes

You must bump cord under dash on passenger side in order for it to come on or you hit a bump in the street. When it is on cools great same with the heat. Was doing this for a couple of months now today it want come on at all. It was like whatever that cord was it was loose.


The lights affected are the dash, heater and ash tray light. My drivers side tailight and marker light do not work either. I checked all the fuses and bulbs and they are all ok. Is this a short? How much do you think it would cost to get this repaired?

Good night, I have a doubt about the camshaft for my Kia, model: Spectra II 1.6L LS, year: 2002. The VIN of my car is KNAFB227225185766 and the damaged part has printed the following code K30E K1-2, and the number 421.
I need to buy the camshaft identified by "0K30E12420A CAMSHAFT ASSY-INT" but I don't understand what does the following codes mean: K1-1 K2-2 K3-2 K4-1 K5-2 K16-2 (none of which is the one my car originally had), and what is the difference between one camshaft with a K code (for example K1-1) or other (for example K4-1). If you'd please help me to understand that so I can buy the appropriate camshaft for my car.

Thanks in advance,
Argenis Blanco.

when it stalls it happens when stopped or going 70 at least for about 1/8 of a full tank and its getting worse. It happens most often with a fresh full tank of gas. Runs rough then stops then starts up fine again just to have it happen 2 to 5 mins later.

Jumps out of gear in drive. Is this a full transmission repair or Replacement.

how to replaced alternator

I found one used automatic transmition from a Kia Spectra 2004


headlight adjustment

when you first turn the key on it showes park the when yu go to back up it goes to nutrul and L 2 and 3 dont work just D and it has tto be at 6000 rpm to change gears

this problem has happened twice within last week

Twice I was able to get back into reverse but the third time, had to get a push out of a driveway then just put it in drive.

Sometimes I will wake up in the night to find my dash lights and parking lights have come on. They were not left on accidently. This has happened several times and always when it is very cold outside. I'm wondering if it has something to do with my ignition switch? I'm afraid my battery will be dead one morning. Please help!!

I had a cylinder 1 misfire code that was resolved by replacing plugs (used ngk's) and replaced the ignition wire that had dry (heat) rotted plug ends . Right before this was fixed the car started not shifting up past 2nd gear and the O/D dash light and shifter button quit working , I googled the symptoms and it seemed to resemble that it had put itself into safe mode (I assumed from misfire issue ? ) Anyhow I disconnected battery to reset comp and car is still having same transmission issue ? Could it still be in limp mode and if so any idea on how to reset it ? Or is it the "shift solenoid A" code that would be the problem and if so why would it affect the O/D light and button as described or could it be something like the RAM software upgrade that I have read about ? I feel it would be more of an electrical issue like a short or bad ground or something as the light will go on and off if let to idle in park long enough ?? Any and all advice here is welcomed ,I need to resolve this and trying not to take to tranny shop to get hosed ?
Thanks Everyone !!

Got a diagnostic code of P0036 and changed the corresponding sensor
Also changed the fuel pump and filter. It will crank no problem but won't start

wen I push in gas rpm rev hjgh and car is barely moving also it will idle in first and second gear without dieing. I cant even pop the clutch if I wanted to its like there is no clutch the only thing it good for at the moment is starting the car

When it is cold outside the keyless entry, power door locks, power windows, dashboard lights, rear window defroster, dome light, seat belt alarm and tail lights do not work. When the car warms up sometimes they will come on and sometimes they will not. I have new belts on the car and installed a brand new battery yesterday but the problem persists.

I bought my KIA May of '13 and test driving and owning it for 2 months drove fine. Then my left front tire started going bad and the car pulled to the left badly. Bought new tire but still pulls to the left, just not as bad. I need a front wheel alignment.

need to find out how to replace marker lights without removing headlamp assemblies

Only one previous owner and just bought it in February. The knocking does not stop and speeds up when car is accelerated. It just got an oil change and the noise slightly lessened. It's constant.