Kia Sedona Questions
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I had a battery supplier look up requirement and he said I needed a 500CCA per OE, but I had a air bag light come on and the dealer looked at battery and said I should have a 700CCA. Who is correct?
replaced mass air flow sensor & crank shaft sensor dont see any vacume leaks only 49 thousand miles on it any clues to what it could be
I have a 4 letters on my dash and dont no what they mean
Doors useless. Grandkids and friends climb in through rear hatch.
MY VAN KEEPS CUTING OFF WHILE DRIVING AND WON';T CRANK BACK UP WITHOUT A BOOST..TO ONLY DRIVE A LIL BIT AN STALL AAIN AND CUT OFF..i WAS TOLD IT WAS THE CRANKSHAFT POSITON SENSOR BUT I'M TRYING TO FIND WHERE IT IS LOCATED ON THIS ENGINE.3.8 V6
Apparently my heater coolant pipes to the rear heater have rusted and blown. What is a ballpark figure to have a mechanic fix this?
this is first time for gas pedal. Could it be frozen or corroded
Is there something else i can try if the fuel pump goes in the tank frist ?
The Sedona has 107k miles on it. It started doing this last September. I was leaving work, coasting to a stop sign, and it just quit. I turned the key and it started right up. I drove about 4 miles and while sitting at a red light it stalled again, but I was able to restart. Then, the next day, while driving down the high way on a 400 mile trip, it stalled and restarted on its own at 70 mph 3 or 4 different times. But, the latest occurance left me and my family stranded 100 miles from home in freezing temperatures and wouldn't restart until the two truck dropped it off. However, I'm now fearful to ever drive it anywhere. I've had people mention the fuel pump and others say a crankshaft position sensor. Please help! Thanks.
The heater in the back of the van stopped blowing hot air. This just recently happened in the last mth. Last winter it worked fine. My heater in the front of the van works just fine. My kids are freezing. Please help. What would cause this and would it cost alot to fix?
van starts shaking ans smell turn off and let set for a bit then drive again dose not do it all the time
what could be problem
Engine runs as usual
Got 2006 Kia Sedona inspected on Friday, hit with a bill for $745 to replace right front wheel bearing and a new batter because of problem with frequent non-start of van. Saturday morning, started van, backing out of driveway and ABS and ESC OFF lights come on and there is vibration and pulsating in brake upon pressing of brake pedal. Van back at mechanic on Monday in which they claim that right front wheel speed sensor was going bad, which was caused by old wheel bearing that went bad, causing the axle to be loose and rattle around causing the speed sensor to start to go bad, but would not have known it until the replacement of the wheel bearing made the right front tight causing the speed sensor to get readings kicking the ABS light on. Cost to replace this is $138. Get van home and immediately upon restarting, Check Engine Light comes on. So now what? Can anyone shed some light on this BS?
The squeeky noise is slight and only occurs occasionally, usually when its wet or cold outside and is not always noticeable and has not affected the driving of the car. The sound is directly beneath the steering wheel and occors when I turn the wheel, but not always. Can you tell me the possible causes and potential costs for repair? Thank you so much.
I am not sure if it is one of the two side struts or the single one. The motor works fine. I might be able to fix it myself but if not, any idea of the cost?
the parts store can only pull up a tension pully and they look the same. are they interchangeable or are they different.
the idler pully is wore out and is making this high pitch screaming sound while its running and the faster you go the louder it gets
worn out rear tire only from one side
i am buying it from catus jacks auto ,i took it back after having it two days the engine light went on they said it was the solinoid they replaced it, then a week later the check engine light went back on , they tested it and said it was the emissions charcoal container they replaced it, five months went by the check engine light goes on stays on, for a week then goes off, then a month later it goes on again i took it back they said it some how got water in the charcoal container, and fixed it again today after we have had it for six months my wife drove from tempe to scottsdale to work and back was running fine then the check engine light went on again, i need to know what and how to fix this it seems cactus jacks has not fixed it right it is not even paid off yet i have one more year to pay it in full, please help us i'm disabled and need this to work
The steering on my 2005 kia sedona seems slightly stiff when turning either left or right. What possible problems would cause this to occur, and what would be the estimated cost of each possiblity. Thank You
It does not make this sound while driving. It started making this sound about a week ago. It has 43,000 miles on it.
When the temperature outside is moderately cold the van will display the check engine light along with the traction control light and not allow throttle inputs. I have to turn the vehicle off and on, then it will be ok for a minute or 2, and continue doing this for up to 5 minutes. Once the van gets really warmed up it stops, however the check engine light will stay on .
The stripping is located on the liftgate door itself not on the body. Can a replacment be bought and what is the name of part. Leaking when it rains. Causing the storage area to get wet.
i NEED TO REPLACE THE TRANSMISSION IN A2002 KIA SADONA LOOKING FOR SOME TIPS ON HOW TO GET THE TRANSMISSION OUT.
Do i have to drop the engine craddle to get the tranmission out i am putting another one in it.
have a engine nooise and want to verify that the tensioner bearing is the problem
Only occasional issue, and does not get the check engine light to come on (usually). Only happens off the line when I've had a warm start with in the last 10 or 15 minutes. When I do get the light it is a "lean bank two" code. Fuel pressure is good... This is an engine problem, not trans slip or anything else. Good gas has always been used, maint. is up to snuff. Runs like a spotted ape before and after the shutter. Sometimes the shutter is just a two hit gallop, other times it is 5 or more jerks all the way across a 60 foot intersection. Never has died during shutter and always runs fine after.