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going to check timing belt,break fluid,abs wheel sensor,abs control module replaced,oil light coolant leak, electrol system, vaccum leak diagnostic

My first thought was that there was a vacuum leak, but the engine idles and runs good.

jdc72748@yahoo.com I have already asked questions but I forgot to tell you I also changed the oil pump as jdc72748.
a name for my jeep is poor jeep. I have the same question on 3/15/2015 and 3/17/2015 and more information on 3/18/2015

I went to Auto Zone, then plugged in a Diagnostic device and said to change speed rotor? Do l need to take off brake rotor?

I have changed the oil pump strainer, checked the sensor use different oil 10-w50, I think, the switch when it's first starts the guage stays at the middle spot.

I have changed the pump, screen the switch

I have replaced the pump, screen.starter

After the fan is blowing for about 20 to 30 mins with the heat on on any setting it will start to turn on and off the finally not blow at all. So I shut the car off and then its fine again until another 10 or so mins go by again. then at some point not t went from the fuse box to the controls work at all. the dealer wont look at it unless i have a appt, And the worse part i have a extended warrty that covers everything. A local mechenic looked at it when it wasent running and said there was no power going from the wires that went from the fuse box to the controls that went the the temp controls. Any Ideas?

So...I screwed up, and put a quart of 80W-90 oil in my front differential, instead of the rear. And...when I realized my mistake...I combined quarts of 80W-90 with 85W-140 (1.8 quarts) to put into the rear differential. Thinking it wouldn't harm it....too badly. Reason being, I have only one car, I'm a single parent, and I was replacing both diff's seals and oil, late at night when my daughter was sleeping. Now...I need to know if I need/should be replacing that diff oil, for the proper oil, OR....will it survive a few thousand miles, when I decide to do it right.

I sent my ecu out to get checked. The guy told me the capacitors where bad and he fixed it and sent it back. I put it in and it did the same exact thing. The vehicle was running fine then just shut off. It cranks strong but blows fuse everytime

Car got stuck between gears shifting to 4wd got it out and then when i tried to turn the wheel wouldnt budge. Im not sure what happened but i checked the belt for the powersteering near the pump and it looks fine along with the fluids. Not sure what caused this

At times various warning lights come on although truck runs well. Dash dials will sometimes spin. Car wouldn't start a few times. Problem since truck was new. Dealer is stumped, even with help from Chrysler. Various wiring harnesses and computers replaced and problem only got worse. Anybody hear of this?

I noticed this after having my clutch replaced. I was told last week that the through out bearing was vibrating could this be the issue? I took the vehicle back to the place I had the clutch put in and they are saying they don't hear the vibration . Following an oil change at bell tire they advised me to take it back to the mechanic who installed the clutch. Could it be the through out bearing or something else causing the hesitation between gears? Thank you for any advise. Oh, by the way it won't go into gear all the time and trying to get it into reverse it grinds.

I have replaced Coil pack, plugs, injectors and complete fuel pump! Tested fuel psi everything looks good, once in a while it will start and idle perfectly. What else should I check? It does throw a misfire code on #5 & 6 cylinders and sets check engine light! I even tried new fuel rail but nothing seems to help. Anyone have an idea?..

changed to a brighter bulb, worked for a few days now won't come on, changed relay still dosn,t work

Replaced blown fuses, checked for spark (none) fuel pump does not run. Can get fuel pump to work if I jump the relay.

After a few seconds I can rev the engine slowly a few times and it returnes to normal , this jeep only has 34,000 miles on it and never driven off road or hard

front end wobbles at 55mph if you hit a bump

Took it to mechanic right away. Checked out clean when he drove it. Picked it up and drove it to work. 20-30 minutes into the drive, starts skipping/missing again, then goes away. This started 2-days ago and comes and goes. What should I do?

will start sometimes after a few trys has fuel but seams like no spark has code 33 i dont have a/c what does the auto stut downrelay afect and could that be the problum have changed the relay, coil, crank sensor

How do you disconnect alarm? It won't fire or get fuel.