Jeep Wrangler QuestionsRefine by vehicle
I was told that as a jeep gets older the shims between the cab and the frame fallout is this true
I took my wrangler into the shop to have the rear axle and transfer case replaced. At first the mechanic was going to charge about $4500 for parts and labor. So I found parts at a salvage year for about 1200 total. The mechanic does the work a day after recieving the parts and says his "guys" (more the one person) spent 12 hours ($99 per hour) working on it and is charging $1300 for labor which also included a battery replacement. To my knowledge those are both bolt on part along with the brakes for the rear axle. Am I wrong to assume that I'm being over charged cause I was expecting more like $700 to 800 for the labor.
rebuilt short block engine but still using oil like crazy. New rings twice. Any ideas?
I replaced the ECU, battery is fine also no diagnostic codes come up except code for battery recently disconnected. Please help. I ain't no mechanic. Thank you!
i need to know how to get it crunk so it can be repaired???
rim is 15, and I now have 222/75/15
Drove 50 ft. and the listed warning lights came on. Not blinking. Solid. Returned to driveway. Turned off engine. Restarted and no warning lights. Drove 20 ft. and warning lights came on.
It is raining. Wondering if moisture could be contributing to the problem. Electrical? Where do I begin to look/check?
Iv got the parts !!
Jeep Wrangler Sport 4.0 6 cyl automatic
I had left to go camping over a 4 day weekend and left my jeep in the driveway. I came back and it started fine, after a few min of warming up i heard loud crackling under the hood. I turned it off and had my mechanic friend listen to it. after a few min it had gone away. then it had done so again the next day when I started it up. My friend said that moisture may have gotten under my distributor cap (due to the rain) and caused a short, but he was baffled that it didn't misfire. Does this sound common or could there be a short somewhere else? 2.5l 4cyl by the way.
1997 jeep wrangler sport
4.0 inline 6 cyl / 5-speed transmission,
After it heats up and I shut it off I have to bleed the injector rack before it will start then I still have to keep pumping the gas to it clears out the I can drive
Gauges go dead, fuel light will come on and gas gauge needle goes to E if i hit a bump. It comes right back to driving fine in a few seconds. If i put it in reverse it stalls even if i slip the clutch.
will replacing the TPS throttle positioning sensor be the next step to troubleshoot?
The Jeep starts normally with the seat belt warning light going off in about 10 seconds whether the belt is on or off. But when I turn off the ignition the light will come back on in about 30 seconds but it very dim and it will stay on until the Jeep is started again. I didn't have the problem until I recently replaced the starter and positive battery cable. I'm tempted to unplug the warning light but I am also worried about this being a possible short in the wiring. Thanx for any suggestions of where to look.
My breaks are screeching everytime i apply them! I was wondering what ways there are to fix this and how much it cost??? I think it is the front breaks that are making the noise.
Every time I go to start my Jeep I have to turn the key on and wait 1-2 minutes then I crank the engine and it starts. As long as I wait then try to start it works. Had it tuned up and checked the fuel press and its good.
condition existed before replacing pump and filter, when pressure increases clciking slows then stops, when stop clicking the engine will start after few tries,
Before the computer was replace I also had the check engine light throwing sensor codes. The overdrive had also been turning on and off on its own. The shop had my jeep for over 3 weeks. I have had it back for a week and now this starts up. Its is a jeep wrangler unlimited with a straight 6 motor, automatic with 4 wheel drive. I don't want to have to put it back in the shop for weeks on end. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
I changed my thermostat housing and I'm pretty sure I did it right (unless theirs anything special) but now the coolant temp sensor doesn't work and I even replaced that but still j have the check engine light and my gauge is at the coldest it can (temperature gauge) is it possible the wiring harness got damaged or am I looking at the wrong part to replace. I know older models have a separate sending unit behind the head. But it's a 97 so just seeking professional help.
The linkage is fine the vacuum houses going to the front wheels look fine. Any advice?
Noticed an error code in odometer 'no 605' Noticed TX shifted with 'hard noise 1st into 2nd just before start problem'.
console and air slowly turn on when key is in the on position
I just rebuilt the rear end. it had a Dana 44 with new disc and gears. when I take the rear drive shaft down, and spin the wheels you can still here it coming from the rear end.