Jeep Grand Cherokee Questions
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Back door lock was replaced. Spare key was sent. Garage said bad fob. They had to insert fob. When I got it back I used my usual fob but now that doesn't work correctly. Keyless entry does not work and push button start does not work. I have to insert fob and use remote to unlock.
I turn the heat on and it don't get warm
my car start but it looks not working perfect i check the code it was P1391
I checked fuses grounds and circuit board on cluster everything looked fine
I have read some things that the Jeep will kick out of neutral, also the soap, water etc.... used is not very good for the paint & wheels. Would love to hear some opinions. Thank you.
Does anyone know how to permanently turn off the Automatic Mode Stop/start feature other than with the automatic mode button, as I have to remember to hit it every time I start & stop my Jeep.
Lost the smart key on girlfriends car and wondered how to get around without using it temporarily
And starts whistling again when I accelerate.it's not real loud, but very irritating.
junped car battery takes a charge.will not idle
I can hear the liquid dripping when I drive the truck and then park
My '04 Jeep Grand Cherokee Wagoneer has 104K miles and I seldom drive since I've retired (3-5000 miles per yr). When weather turns cold, the front end slightly creaks like metal on metal when I hit a pothole or rough patch. Also the steering wheel squeals slightly when turned all the way. Suggestions on front shocks/struts and remedies for both symptoms appreciated. Also what is a respectable price range for these two repairs? Thanks, Mick
The turn signals sometimes work sometimes they do they could be on and then shuts right off the flashers work though
Put a new idle control senor in and its is still stalling while driving. stall everytime I drive
So every time I press on the accelerating peddle there is a knocking noise that is loud and the car starts to stall and turn off
Is this physically possible, and what would it cost? I would accept a 2WD with non-drive axle free-wheeling if 4WD is not feasible or cost effective.
I have very little power when i step on the accelerator.
my Jeep has very little power when i step on the accelerator. I was told it is the input speed sensor. What is that and how much will it cost to replace it?
Have checked wiring, but still no solution found.
Still the check engine light does not clear still states miss fire on #5, what next? Is it the fuel injector for #5?
The fan is not coming on as the engine gets hot. I have replaced the thermostat, the radiator cap, flushed the radiator, and both relays are good. What else could be causing the fan to not come on. The fan spins by hand.
I replaced the battery and I still have starting problems / starts when jumped
but won't start afterwards / cleaned neg battery cable but no luck / can you help?
This has been happening fort a few weeks
either have a lifter bad or rod bad, what is the cost to replace either? Do not want to replace the motro, need to get thru the winter with it.
for couple of days didn't want to start right up, then it died while driving turning a corner and after sitting 30 min finally fired up ,but while trying to start it there was strong smell of gas coming from tail pipe. A day later it wouldn't fire over at all "crank no start" now after messing with it spraying wd40 while cranking it over it starts"ruff" but then keeps clean steady idol. Also have some interior electrical issues when turning my steering column clicking under dash with blinking lights, could electrical have anything to do with my "crank no start"?
First time this happened I was driving a trailer from PA to TX. I just got into Texas, it was very hot, and the Jeep started bucking violently. Engine light went on. I found a Jeep dealership, they read the codes. I forget which cylinders and injectors came up. 1 guy told me is was serious, another guy was awesome, he said I could safely get home 7 more hours. I let the car cool down, it got me home.
Since then my Jeep has been to 5 repair shops since August 2016 with multiple misfires (bucking), each time a code comes up it is a different set of cylinders/fuel injectors.
What I can do to cause the car to buck.
AC on while towing a trailer up a hill
Mis/bucking starts at 60 mph. I can get it to stop by backing off gas. If the engine cools down it will also help. If the AC is off it helps too.
Even the hot day and AC will not always create the problem.
One shop did fuel cleaners, fuel kit, new plugs, new air cleaner, it improved mpg, but did not fix problem.
The car has been in 2 shops for 2 weeks with them trying to replicate the problem.
Anyone out there have similar problem?
Thanks for any help.
smoking after driving for 5 minites
fluxuate about 250 up and down while idling and driving most of the time, not just when the faults are showing.
Did not disconnect battery.
Removed the fan shroud.
Removed the serpentine belt (I did remove 2 pulleys to alternator and the one to the right and put them back on. Not sure if this would throw anything off?)
Removed old water pump by taking out all bolts (I think there were 7 total), disconnecting rubber hose containing radiator fluid to the left and rubber hose on top of water pump, and metal hose to the right (unsure what this was).
Connected new water pump and reconnected all hoses and bolts.
Put on new serpentine belt.
Put fan shroud back on.
When I went to go crank the engine, ignition cranks, but will engine will not start. I used jumper cables from my other car, but it seems it won't hold and dies really fast.
I did some research online, and saw some people saying that I could have messed up the timing? Is this correct?
Losing power fast, did I mess up something with the alternator?
Any help would be great. Thanks.
What can I do to find out the solution an source of problems
runs worse or just a bad. Has a bad miss. Compression on cylinder ok. driving me nuts.