Infiniti Q45 QuestionsRefine by vehicle
I contacted a towing facility and he opened the door. The alarm starting going off and it shut the cars computer down and the manual trunk release will not open the door. Is there a way in the trunk from the back seat. We have tried but there is a control panel when I open the center part.
Any advise would be appreciated.
After the power steering belt busted while driving u overheated . Git it tow home car was still starting but when I replaced it the car wouldn't start? I put in new starter checked all fuses flushed the radiator checked timing belt ..but u can't find spark plugs where are the spark plugs lo located?
The battery has been replaced as well as the starter, fuel pump and fuel pump modulator on my 1997 Infiniti Q45. But my car still only cranks but it won't start, just acts like it wants to. I've also tested the relays as well. The only codes that pulled up was for the modulator and a knock sensor code. Which way do I go now, I'm kind of at a loss.
Changed fuel pump, crank sensor, fuel pump control module. I could crank over and over but wouldnt stay running now I cant try cranking more than once it acts like battery is dead after the first cank.
Fuel light stays on constantly
Had someone come and unlock the car and I put the key in the ignition pressed a button alarm system went off and the remote worked fine for a few days but now it's not working again. Seems as if car is dead. Not sure if the remotes are malfunctioning or the security system or electrical systems are the culprit.
Has a new battery and still cranks but won't start and has no rpm movement. Checked for spark on one of the coils and have no spark, i also checked the fuel pump modulator and it tested good. The fuel pump turns on when trying to crank the car up, but still won't start at all. Any suggestions as which way to go next. Also codes for the Knock Sensor and Fuel Pump Control Module pops up. Thx-
Had battery changed recently worked fine for about a month. Sat in garage for a few days and wouldn't start. Went back to shop where battery purchased; recharged and alternator is fine. After a few days would not start, went back, recharged, alternator fine. About three days later same thing happened. Could it be an electrical or switch problem?
because i have changed all o2 sensors, egr valve, changed plugs & coil packs plus pcv valve and maf sensor. Car still shakes and stalls...been using premium gas since i purchased three years ago.
IF NOT CHANGED, WHAT ISSUES MAY BE CAUSED AS A RESULT ?
THANK YOU GRATEFULLY
Whenever I try to stop, and I press the brake pedal the brakes are real hard...why is that
My car shakes a lot and I can smell the fumes and it shakes like it wants to shut off
changed throttle positioning sensor because that's what diagnostic said was a problem but still made no difference and check engine light is still on. what could it be?
Because they need changing
Changed all ignition coils and plugs, but idle's rough and will hesitate big time 45-55 accleration. Timing chain so says don't mess with that? ..(i have 200k miles)...whats next? Is there a timing adjustment I could perform or is that a complete new chain, (2K?)...thanks for any help...Bam
So my car will only start when its cold, if the car is warm the car wont crank but the fule pump and alternator fires but nothing else. So i figure it ls the main relay now i can get to it is there any tips on how to access it
I am getting a code of P1320.
What could be causing this. Some type of sensor maybe. I've had the tank scoped and the repair shop said that everything looked clear. It happens every time I get gas, not always at the same amount, but every time. Sunday I was able to put $12 in there before it started clicking.
I had the fuel line bled
Still difficult to turn steering wheel What could be the problem?
And injector so I took it to the shop now They say the engine wiring harness needs to be replaced because it's not sending a signal to cylinder 2