every thing seems work but at night when i turn the light on the dashbord light doesnt turn on and no radio or cd player either

having problems shifting gear into drive from park. the car
shifter button jams. after many tries it shifts but after many tries, however other times I get in the car and it shifts with no problem.

During the day, my lights are always on, unless the car is completely off, is there a way I can turn them on and off at will?

This past weekend, I lost power to the car. The thermometer reached near the redline, the battery light came on, the brake light came on, and the car eventually lost all power and quit working. I had the car jumped, it started and ran for just over a mile before all these symptoms came up again. I took the battery in, discovering it had very low cold cranking amps. I replaced it, and the car ran fine. This morning, the car lasted for about 10 miles, and all those symptoms appeared again. The battery light is on, the brake liight is on, and the car has a loss in power. Any ideas as to what I may need to do? Also, I have no heat. That stopped working as well.

my car will not start i have change the knock sensor o2sensor new battery new fuel pump

The passenger side door is shut and not operating either manually or electronically. The lock moves but electronically jams back to lock position again. Also, the radio is not working. Not sure if it is related electrical problem or independent problem.

Where can I find the parts, at what price and can I us used parts on this job?

I have been told that my car (1995 J30 Infiniti) needs bushings and strut rod ??. I have checked and these items are very expensive, the cost I am being quoted to repair of do a front end alignment on thes car is 1500.00 and the car itself is not worh that much. Please provide me some advice

driving on the hiway 60 65 the car will drop speed like theres thers no gas coming through the carb but if you pump the gas it comes back does not happen all the time i have noticed it happens when tank is low my other problem is the tack it jumps then it goes to the right rpm then jumps again could it be a short or ? and how can i fix either problems or check for

I have a 95 j30 and my gas meter does not seem to be working I was told it was the fuel sending switch/unit. I would like to know where it is located in the engine bay, and also if anybody else has experienced this problem the best solution for it.

Hi ,Just turn on the heat and noticed that the fan was not blowing any heat .Please help, what could be the problem?

How to replace the water pump?

where can i find one

My j30 has no power. I turned off the key and forgot to roll up window. turned key on again and nothing! no power at all. trunk will not open or gas filler door, etc... I used a meter to test the battery and it is good. Somewhere I seemed to have lost power from battery to everything in the car. No headlights either. But battery will crank starter with a jump switch so the battery appears to be good.... Any thoughts...HELP!

cost to replace water pump

How to change a timing belt? How many days does it take to change it and what tools are needed please. Everyone is giving me the run around and I need to know details on how to change this timing belt on my car to get it done right away

Stop lights remain on at all times, even with car off and key out of ignition. Could this be a brake light switch indicator?

my car just suddenly switches off when I am in traffic. The 'SLIP' and 'TCS' light will show. It will refuse to start untill after about 30 to 45 mins.

where is the fuel filter located on a 1996 j30 infiniti

i cant locate the oil filter on this car. can you let me know please

the sarter is not engaging the flywheel, it just spinning & won't crank up the car

the starter motor just spins, does not engage the flywheel. The belts & pulleys only spins a little.

the belt is new but it makes a sqeeling sound when i drive

had ac replaced last season by an individual that works for a dealership, so i do not think i have any recourse. it never really worked well but it did cool enough until the other day. i put in a can of freon and the pressure looks good but it does not seem to do any good. it blows hot air only as if a valve or switch is not working, any answers.

all of a sudden power window and sunroof and a/c stoped working checked fuse and they are good what else could it be

Air compressor is fine, but Clutch is worn out
& engage the compressor. Can the clutch be
replaced w/o replacing entire unit?

Thank you

When I'm driving up hills my car starts to jerk and loses power. So i've tried putting it in a lower gear and although it goes up the hills better it still doesnt seem to have as much power as before. Any suggestions?

ofter i drive it for 19 min it dont come out any more

SOLUTION FOUND to the following today (8/2/2010). . . just wanted to share the answer after many, many headaches, diagnostics and repairs to help others. The answer is . . . a REFERENCE SENSOR!

I recently obtained a 1993 J30 which is in pretty good condition. The only big problem is with the erratic way the car runs. After the battery was charged and I drove it for the first time for about 20 minutes (it was a gift that had not been driven in a year), it ran like a dream. Acceleration was quick, the engine was smooth and handling was great. I brought it back and parked it for about 10 minutes and when I went to start it again, it would not start. The engine would turn over and all the electronics would come on, but it would not start. I need help from an expert!!! Are you up to the challenge? Here is what I’ve done:

It had an oil change and a transmission service. It has also been given a diagnostic at the Nissan dealership. They couldn't figure out what was wrong, but suggested replacing the ECM and the Power Transducer, as well as the Coolant Sensor. Obviously, I don't want to buy these parts from Nissan on a whim, because they would be about $1500 brand new.

We tried to start it under the assumption it was flooded, but it was a no go. It seemed more like the engine wasn't getting any fuel or maybe it wasn't firing completely. The weirder thing is the car backfiring and sputtering AFTER it is warmed up.

Another assumption we had was about the ignition switch. It seems to be really loose. There seems to be a lot of wiggle room once the car is on and it is really tight from the off to accessory position. Could bad contacts in the ignition be causing problems in the engine?

Well, warming the car up is definitely not the problem in this case. I ran over to Pull-A-Part, but the J30 there had already been stripped clean. I decided to crank the car and just let her run until the problem developed. Sure enough, the engine started vibrating heavily and sputtering about 10 minutes after the temperature gauge reached around half-way. The whole process took about 25 minutes.

The dealership recommended replacing the ECU and the Power Transistor Unit. Both have been replaced independent of each other in the past, but not at the same time. Still when the units were replaced, it didn't help the problem.

I've read a couple things pointing to the crankshaft or camshaft position sensor. Could the engine heating up cause this sensor to malfunction and if it did would it cause a problem like the one I described?
I pulled the codes from the ECU, but all it gave me was 55. That's the code for everything is working.

I pulled out the Power Transistor Unit and checked it for continuity. It was good. I attempted to pull out the Crankshaft Position Sensor, but it was difficult to get to.

I grabbed some of that electronics freezing spray that you use to diagnose parts that you think are overheating. I started up the car and waited until it started acting up (20 minutes like clockwork) and then sprayed every electrical part I could think of, but nothing helped.

When the problem first starts, the car will idle fine, but you can't get the engine to rev much higher. You can press the accelerator clean against the floor and it'll just cough and sputter at around 1500 rpm. It'll keep running until I shut it off, but once I do, I more or less have to wait until the next day to start her up again.

I talked to somebody last night who suggested that it might be the catalytic converter becoming clogged up and causing exhaust pressure to build up. Could that be the cause?

I replaced all the spark plugs using the OEM plugs. I noticed that whoever replaced the plugs before didn't use the OEM plugs and there is no telling how long ago they were replaced. I fired up the engine and waited, revving it a few times after it was warmed up, and the problem started again 20 minutes into running. This time I was actually able to rev the engine smoothly up past 1500 once the problem started, but I was only able to do it once. I shut the engine off and this time I was able to crank it again. The problem was still present after the engine restarted, but this is the first time I've been able to restart afterwards.

The MAF sensor has already been cleaned, so I think it is good. The TPS sounds like it could be a candidate. I have a print copy of the service manual. I checked TPS before and after the engine had heated up and the readings remained constant. The engine once again had the same problem. Another thing I noticed this time around is there is a grinding sound when you try to rev the engine while the problem is occurring. At idle, the engine sounds fine. Then I step on the accelerator and the engine begins to vibrate and jump and there is occasionally a sharp grinding. I'm not sure what that could be.

I also checked the temperature difference between the in and out pipes of the catalytic converter. I was just measuring the external temperature of the pipes with an infrared thermometer, because that's all I really had at my disposal. Once the engine was warmed up and the problem started occurring, there was about a 100 F difference between the in and out pipes. They weird thing though is that the in pipe was hotter than the out pipe. Aren't the exhaust gases supposed to heat up in a catalytic converter, so it can burn away the bad stuff? Both of the catalytic converters had the same temperature difference. They had more or less the same temperature readings too. Both were about 215 F on the in pipe and about 115 F on the out pipes.

I swapped out the ECU for the old one. The car still wouldn't start.

The engine will turn over and the car will backfire occasionally. There will also be an occasional grinding sound as the car tries to start. It only lasts for a second and happens right when the engine sounds like it's going to come on. I'm not sure what the sound was and I don't know if it's related to the main problem I've been having, but I do know that I can't test if the ECU is the problem if I can't get the engine started. Any ideas?
I'm wondering now if it is maybe a fuel pump/fuel system problem. I want to check the fuel pressure, but I can't find where to hook up the gauge on the fuel rail.

Hello! Somebody backed into my car and now I have three small dents in the front of my black J30, right over the registration numbers. How much would it cost to repair these dents?