Infiniti J30 QuestionsRefine by vehicle
i need to charge sys.
Happens every day now. What could make this happen?
I replaced the egr valve per nissans instruction and the egr light is still on I disconnected the battery over nite how do I shut the light off?
I have already replaced all the power steering parts several months ago.
just had the check engine light took off cause of a code on there p0443 but now its still shuts off what could that be i had the part fixed thought i wont lose power any more
Lights and horn will not shut off after a new battery was installed. This was not a problem in the past when I have replaced batteries.
it may start then it want some day's i will crank others it want
My 95 j30 runs gr8 4-5 days on then 4-5 days off....wen it wont start theres nothing i can do to get it to start...battery,ignition,starter..everything works/is good...my only option is waiting 4-5 days and itll start right up...no hesitation and runs perfectly...4-5 days later...it happens all over again...been doin this for 3months now...advice anyone??
Ok...this is exactly how she does....she starts up n run fricken awesome....5-6 days later ill get in her to go to the store & what happens?? NOTHING!! NO SOUND WHAT SO Ever! Battery,terminals,wires,ignition,starter good...plenty premium gas in the tank....Everything is working but the motor wont turn over or even click....4-5 days later after it sits there untouched ill get in it...and get this...she starts right up!! No hesitation nothing..starts n drives perfectly!! Omg....yall i love this car more than i prolly shuld can sum 1 plz help us?? Any suggestions comments will b so gr8ly appreciated!!!
checkn engine light is on while in park it shakes ive never had any problems with my car untill now ? can anyone help me. its driveable but i prefer not to go far..
About 90% of the time, my heat gauge doesn't operate. but sometimes it randomly clicks on and works just like normal. What should I do to try and fix this?
There is no check engine light on and the only thing I did was an oil change. But, the first time it stalled, I thought I had put bad gas in the car. I poured in some gas treatment. What could it be.
won't start, no gas. Replaced the fuel pump still no gas.
could it be in the anti theft fuel shut of system?
bezel wood trim, shift trim, stereo and ac controls are already out
window goes down but not up, i hear the sound: is this pronblem fixable and what will be the cost> thank you in advance!
keep in mind it some ti ames has this kinda knocking sound gets better sometimes when we use a fuel cleaner or injector cleaner could that be the cause of lo of gas
wheres my code connection at on my 1993 j-30
starts right up with short shots of starting fluid,R&Rd used engine,replaced TPS...could bad ajustment of this cause engine not to stay running
I was changing the oil on my 94 Infiniti j30 when I took the oil filter off a ball bearing dropped out of the engine I looked and it came from the oil pressure relief valve and the cap that keeps the ball in place is cracked where can I get a new one fast. This is my only transportation
There is no evidence of water in oil
I replaced my 1997 J30t engine last week, but now it shifts late-at 3,000-4,000 RPMs. Autozone got a transmission related code.
My 1994 j30 has low engine power. Low acceleration. engine is loud.
I own a 93 Infiniti J30..Ive recently had problems with eratic idling, severe hesitation, and stalling..the stalling would happen in two different ways..one way would be right after starting or when pressing the accelorator, the engine would die down and stall..but I would still have electrical/battery power and with flooring the accelerator I could restart the car...but it would also stall in anohter way..while driving, then slowing down ( not sure if it happened when I pressed the breaks or not ) the car would suddenly and completely die.. no engine die down, it would just cut off with absolutely no electrical/battery power and no interior lights or ignition key reaction. After trying different things, I found that there is a red plastic connector attached to the positive battery cable..when I slide it off it's L shape pin, which is connected to the positive battery cable terminal, then reconnect it, the power comes back on in the car and it will start right back up...I dont know if the red connector is supposed to be able to come off its pin or if it is broken, but everytime the car stalls like this..suddenly and with no electrical power..I can disconnect and reconnect this connector and the power will come back on...but when I wiggled and disconnected it with the car running, it did not stall out the car..
So I pulled coeds from the ECU and got a faulty temperature sensor reading... I replaced it, and cleaned the throttle bodies and MAF ( using proper cleaners for both ) and now the idle/hesitaion/die-down stalling problems seems to be fixed..but the car is still cutting off with no electrical power after driving then slowing down..such as to turn a corner...so my questions are..what could be causing this, could it have anything to do with pressing the brakes, what is the red connector attached to the positive battery cable terminal and where does it lead?Any help would be greatly appreciated
It was diagnosed with a failed injector on # 1 cylinder
every thing seems work but at night when i turn the light on the dashbord light doesnt turn on and no radio or cd player either
having problems shifting gear into drive from park. the car
shifter button jams. after many tries it shifts but after many tries, however other times I get in the car and it shifts with no problem.
During the day, my lights are always on, unless the car is completely off, is there a way I can turn them on and off at will?
This past weekend, I lost power to the car. The thermometer reached near the redline, the battery light came on, the brake light came on, and the car eventually lost all power and quit working. I had the car jumped, it started and ran for just over a mile before all these symptoms came up again. I took the battery in, discovering it had very low cold cranking amps. I replaced it, and the car ran fine. This morning, the car lasted for about 10 miles, and all those symptoms appeared again. The battery light is on, the brake liight is on, and the car has a loss in power. Any ideas as to what I may need to do? Also, I have no heat. That stopped working as well.
my car will not start i have change the knock sensor o2sensor new battery new fuel pump