1,187
questions

i drove it day before ran fine.now this morning it acts like it is trying to turn over then it just stops

I have a 2006 Hyundai Sonata. When I start the car about 4/5 times the power steering doe snot work for about 30 seconds to a minute, and then it comes back fine. The driver's fasten seatbelt light also comes on and stays on for a minute or 2 after the seatbelt is fastened. Also, several times the battery light stays on, although it usually goes away when the power steering comes back. This has happened about 6 times. Any idea what's wrong?

The Harmonic pully seems too consist of two metal parts and a rubber peice in between them. the metal peice that is attached to the crankshaft does not seem to be spinning, but the metal peice that the serpentine belt sits on is spinning causing the rubber peice in the middle to melt. Engine still runs but power stearing is out. why would the damper pully seize up, if it is seized would engine still run, and would the damper pully effect my power stearing?

Possible leak from gas tank??????

When approaching a stop or slow down yield, the car transmission seems to jerk as it downshift.

Both my spedometer and rpms will flucuate up and down with out any change to my speed or rpms. my spedometer will fluctuate 10 to 20 mph at a time. It seems to do it the most when engine has not reached opperatting temperature yet. Any ideas?

My 2007 Hyundai Sonata is having problems starting cold. starter is lworking fine, but it is not getting any fuel. I know that the fuel filter is in the gas tank, but every thing that I have been able to find so far says that thte fuel pump and fuel filter are one asembaly. Is this true or not?

This model has a V-6 and I would like to know what size the steel fuel lines are.

I was told my check engine light is related to my Evap Purge control valve,I wanted to know if its a fix I can do, and maybe where this part is located.

when it dies it will restart and act normall for some time

where is its location

just bought the car and it just started doing it today

Codes P1166 and P1167? I have changed the Mass Air Flow Sensor, Oxygen Sensor on the Upstream (Front/Right) Before
the Cat. Converter. Hooked up the Scan Reader and Cleared out the codes, drove it for awhile and it did stay out, but then it came on again? Hooked up the Scan Reader again when I
returned home and it gave the same codes (P1166 and P1167)???
Do I need to change the Upstream- Rear/Left O2 Sensor and also the Downstream on the Right/Front plus the Downstream-Left/Rear???

Step by step details instructions please?

tachometer not working. check engine light on.

Car just started dying after starting, it will run for a few seconds and then just die. After you let it sit for a while it will start back up again and stay running. Sometimes, it can run all day and stay that way,but recently it will just die and takes several attempts to get it to stay running. I replaced the fuel pump, and a couple of months ago the timing belt and the crankshaft position censors were replaced.

do I ever have to get a Trans Flush?

My local dealership charged me seemingly an arm and a leg for a routine, non-mechanical repair intermediate service. I plan to get back in touch as I was in a hurry today. Service included general oil change+filter; tire balancing; full hose/brake inspection; and cabin air filter replacement (separate charge). But this hardly seems like it should have totalled close to that cost, even at dealership retail. It was $179 + $79 (cabin filter). Thank you for any help.

I can set speed but i can not add or decrease speed with the + or -. Have to break or speed up then hit set to fix speed. Occurs everytime i use curse control.

battery was drained from a light left on (kids!!), this all after a week of heavy rain. when i charged the battery the engine would crank but not start. then after a while it would start but then immediately stall. no hesitating, just completely shut down as though i just turned off the ignition. after another day, the car starts and runs longer but then shuts down again. then the 3rd day the car starts and seems to run fine. someone mentioned it might be the coils had gotten wet and are now dry, but i figured if that was the case wouldn't it stutter or hesitate before stalling, not completely shut down? what are the chances that all three coils in the bank are faulty? i also read that it could be the crankcase positioning sensor has cracked insulation.
any advice would be greatly appreciated!

I am told not necessary until 60,000

i have to hold the gas pedal to the floor and crank a long time to restart. it runs ok after that

i replaced plugs and wires and one coil, lights up like a xmas tree on the side i replaced coil. switched coils does the same thing on the same side.

engine misses at idle or accelerating,change plugs and wires,check engine light says # 3 cylinder is misfiring

Stalling has taken place while idling and driving.Have replaced timing belt, serpentine belts, and alternator twice. Some friends have suggested idle control valve, others camshaft or crankshaft sensors. Wouldn't these problems have dashboard lights? how much would it cost to replace?

I have the sonata 4 cyl. after a new coil and speed sensor, the vehicle runs very goog.

Power steering pump making noise, loosing fluid but cannot visually see where. Trying to keep fluid in reservior but is loosing alot of fluid maybe around the rack compinion. Just started and was not a gradual thing. Real hard to steer. Can you tell me what the problem is?

When picked up it made a huge cloud of smoke under the hood. Mechanic retrived it and messed with it for several days. Now they say the AC is causing the problem and we need a new compressor. This AM the bettery light came on and it made a strong electrical fire smell after I had the deforst on . Went off after about 5 minutes. I think this AC thing is a crock, how would a mechanical system like that be causing the problem? I think it's being overloaded by the fan and other accessories and the alternator they put in is faulty or ? Bad voltage regulator? Bad ground? FYI We replaced the battery this winter with a slightly smaller one we had from a car we junked, but it was nearly new and worked fine all winter. AC was OK last time I checked, not running it except when I forget about the deforst....

The car wont start and battery is fully charged. The vehicle just died while going 80 on the highway and never was able to crank back up.

the car will not take off it boggs down then take off runs about 15 ft does it again put in both o2 sensors egr mass air flow new fuel pump tps timing belt timing belt tensor checked the conv. no codes in it