Close
1,201
questions

I've been noticing an exhaust smell coming from the front/middle portion of my vehicle for some time. My check engine light came on and I took it to mechanic. He ran a diagnostic and said I need to replace my catalytic converter. I'm getting it fixed in a couple of weeks. I have to save up. Can I drive the car in the meantime or will I damage it more? I just need to get from A to B temporarily. By the way - best car ever. This is the first major problem I've had.

Is this a suspension problem? Shocks or strut? The sound comes from the wheel areas. Would this be expensive? Also a rattling noise from the back right tire . Almost sounds like a bounce ball inside the tire once I hit 40 mph and up. Please help diagnose. This all happenes at every part of the day ever time.

I cant get the car to start. The spark plug arent firing at all.

The other day while driving on the open highway, the seat belt and battery light would intermittantly flash. Then for about a day it stopped. Then yesterday it started intermittantly flashing, along wtih the ESC and the ABS lights coming on. no other problems, no loss of power, or acceleration. Auto Zone tested by battery at 100% and also electrical checked out good. Alternator belts appear fine. No other symptoms at all. I drive a lot for my job throughout the day and no loss of power, no acceleration or deceleration problems, no idling problems, no reving problems. No trouble starting and no sluggishness on driving or any electric componenets (cab lights, windows, etc.) The only things was these trouble lights showing on dash. Then tonite, I stopped at a red light and upon driving through the intersection, the car died. It will not restart. Only clicking and seemingly little power, power windows sluggish or stop and dash lights barley come on. I cannot get it to start at all and had to get it towed home. Codes read p2106 and p1295, but only these two codes - nothing else and most forums don't make sense as I had not experienced most of the symptoms that others seem to talk about in relation to this.
Ideas? i am outside the warranty. 86K miles as second owner, certified pre-owned.

I opened the trunk reached under and tried to turn the bulb but it won't budge. any suggestions

it started when i had the valve cover change

Rear trunk is unlock by driverside door have switch. Is now not lock at all. I try with remote control, manually key but nothing is work. Please advise me what can be done .Thanks in advance.

dealer changed the door regulator, found 4 leaks in the trunk..replaced a part in the trunk.resealed the trunk..then it rained again and all the floor boards are wet..some of the trunk got wet..called the dealer back and they want to car again..it has been to dealer three times for this same problem..there isn't a bad smell but the carpet is starting to get moldy..

My airbag light keeps coming on every time someone sits in the back seat. Each time this happens, I was told to take it back to the dealer. This is very expensive so I no longer take it to get reset.

Whenever I start my 2005 Sonata, it usually starts but it cranks up very slowly. What could be the problem

car has been sitting in yard for two months.started the car this morning heater makes a noise in all setting heat works defoster works a/c works

I am confuse do i have a timing belt or a chain when does it need to be change

The problem is when you put it underload it misses and sounds like the motor is popping, this has slowly got worse over 10000kms, fuel economy is still excellent but when idling you can hear the motor running rough but starts every time no problems. Can you tell me if it just needs new plugs and leads it has just ticked over 200000kms had the timing belt done at 121000kms thank you Greg

when I put the gear on D or R and press the brake the car hardly vibrates but when the car is moving or the gear on N It's clear and calm !

i drove it day before ran fine.now this morning it acts like it is trying to turn over then it just stops

I have a 2006 Hyundai Sonata. When I start the car about 4/5 times the power steering doe snot work for about 30 seconds to a minute, and then it comes back fine. The driver's fasten seatbelt light also comes on and stays on for a minute or 2 after the seatbelt is fastened. Also, several times the battery light stays on, although it usually goes away when the power steering comes back. This has happened about 6 times. Any idea what's wrong?

The Harmonic pully seems too consist of two metal parts and a rubber peice in between them. the metal peice that is attached to the crankshaft does not seem to be spinning, but the metal peice that the serpentine belt sits on is spinning causing the rubber peice in the middle to melt. Engine still runs but power stearing is out. why would the damper pully seize up, if it is seized would engine still run, and would the damper pully effect my power stearing?

Possible leak from gas tank??????

When approaching a stop or slow down yield, the car transmission seems to jerk as it downshift.

Both my spedometer and rpms will flucuate up and down with out any change to my speed or rpms. my spedometer will fluctuate 10 to 20 mph at a time. It seems to do it the most when engine has not reached opperatting temperature yet. Any ideas?

My 2007 Hyundai Sonata is having problems starting cold. starter is lworking fine, but it is not getting any fuel. I know that the fuel filter is in the gas tank, but every thing that I have been able to find so far says that thte fuel pump and fuel filter are one asembaly. Is this true or not?

This model has a V-6 and I would like to know what size the steel fuel lines are.

I was told my check engine light is related to my Evap Purge control valve,I wanted to know if its a fix I can do, and maybe where this part is located.

when it dies it will restart and act normall for some time

where is its location

just bought the car and it just started doing it today

Codes P1166 and P1167? I have changed the Mass Air Flow Sensor, Oxygen Sensor on the Upstream (Front/Right) Before
the Cat. Converter. Hooked up the Scan Reader and Cleared out the codes, drove it for awhile and it did stay out, but then it came on again? Hooked up the Scan Reader again when I
returned home and it gave the same codes (P1166 and P1167)???
Do I need to change the Upstream- Rear/Left O2 Sensor and also the Downstream on the Right/Front plus the Downstream-Left/Rear???

Step by step details instructions please?

tachometer not working. check engine light on.

Car just started dying after starting, it will run for a few seconds and then just die. After you let it sit for a while it will start back up again and stay running. Sometimes, it can run all day and stay that way,but recently it will just die and takes several attempts to get it to stay running. I replaced the fuel pump, and a couple of months ago the timing belt and the crankshaft position censors were replaced.