I stopped at a petrol station & to my surprise the fuel door did not open, how can I access the area behind the latch to open the fuel door ?.

Happens through all gears/rpm's and speeds. Will not accelerate without surging/fading

I cant open hood of my car. Hood release cable is attached but wont release hood.

brake system is full off brake liquid and has no other problems. Engine number G4EC. 101hp

Around 92000 miles the car started to have a little rough idle, not bad enough to worry about. But as I let the issue go, it gradually got worse with the car missing while idling pretty much all the time. Replaced the spark plugs 3 times, each time gave me about a week of running well and then back to the rough idle. Replaced both O2 sensors just in case, no change in idle. Eventually my car pretty much choked out at an intersection where I finally got a code, P0303. Did some research online and found there is a common coil issue with this car, so to test the theory, I swapped the coils in #1 and #3, cleared the codes, drove it around the block, check engine light comes on, now I've got a P0301. Common sense seemed to indicate I had a bad coil. Replaced it with an autozone coil. Car ran awesome for almost exactly 2 weeks, which leads us to present day, and it's starting to idle rough again. Research online again seems to indicate that this model and year has major coil issues, with folks having to constantly replace the coils. This doesn't seem legit so I'm searching for an answer to why the coils are going bad. Please help!

the more u drive it the more often it happens expecially when waiting in a line up like at timmys

the video at aauto.com but can't watch a video while working on the car. Don't have that kind of phone or lap top.
Is there anyone out there who could send printable instructions with pictures.
Would be very helpful

the speedometer jumps from "0 to 60" and sometimes doesn't work at all

Just wondering if you guys would know how much it cost to get fixed?

transmission code do not come up, but I was involved in a accident hitting a curb damaging the passenger side axle, rack & pinion, control arm replaced parts. But there is a noise that started to sound after replacing the parts from the transaxle area it also vibrates & shakes the transmission

A week ago the car came in with P0442 code. I did smoke test and revealed a leaking pipe between vent valve and canister. Car is now back today with same code. Re performed smoke test which revealed leaking out of vent canister attached to charcoal canister. Do I need to replace canister or vent valve

Lights have been dimming for a week or so.

no reverse at all pulled in drive and would not back up any more

change the oil?

Whay have I had to replace my exhaust coil 7 times?

The engine light is on and reads evap prob. Is there a recall on the fuel system?

First, I know its an accent, but it has zero power. on flat roads its hard to get it up to speed limit. Forget mountains, I am forced to avoid them. CE light is on, ran codes, which were for the AIT Sensor and Purge Control Sensor, both of which I replaced. There was a third code suggesting a faulty gas cap, which I have not replaced as I cannot figure how that would be a contributing factor. I had one case when it ran good since this all started, which was after I pressure washed under the hood. I dont know if cooling the motor helped or if theres an electrical fault somewhere. Any ideas???

but drives okay and reverse is fine also.

I have had a tune up last year, all my belts (alternator, timing, power steering and ac belts) are changed (at 80K miles), four new tires, alignment, new battery... what could it be? It's a pretty good car, but it dies when I turn the corner. It starts up right away, but the dial for the RPM stops working, until I start it up next time.

with both lights come on the engine will die ,but will restart immediately.thank you ken sanders of arlingtion tx

All brake lights are out, fuses are good, no cruise control, or power locks or windows. Can anybody tell me what the part is? I have someone who can put it in

Trying to avoid dealer labor fee

Do I have to replaced the whole front hub or can I replace just the bearings. I have been told both ways.

I check the electric conection under the back chair and it seems to be all right

have gotten wet or did it damage something code went out car runs fine

My Daewoo Nubira made in 1999 - not Hyundai Accent - (worth, in Australia, around US $2700-3000) was 'missing'. Sounded and felt like a cylinder or two weren't firing. My repair bill was A$1500 approx US$1321.

They replaced a faulty coil and HT leads and spark plugs.
Then they replaced the catalytic converter.
They charged about US$117 to "scan codes" - computer stuff?
catalytic converter was about US$675.
They charged me 2 hours labour: approx US$234.

Do you think they ripped me off?


I have a 2002 Hyundai Accent GL 1.6 DOHC. I had the tranny rebuilt, but it still hasn't operated correctly. I was going to put a used one in and have it serviced, replace seals, fluid, etc. What should I look to pay for this that wouldn't be a ripoff?