Hyundai Accent Questions

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On Tues, had a radiator replaced, thought it was fine, was out in the boonies the next day, far from home, and it ran hotter than usual. Then went into red, but came out of it at times. Probably had 10-15 mins of running while in red zone. Had antifreeze in it, no escaped fluid or steam from engine. Next day, it turned out to be heater coil leaking, had that and thermostat replaced. Car has 128 K miles.
Also,the same day, had rotors, pads, and one caliper replaced.
Right after that the oil pressure light came in, and the shop reassured me that they didn't do anything but the breaks.(Different place for radiator, heater coil, and thermostat.)
The brake place thought that I was done a qt. and since I was only 500 miles away from reg. oil change, I did that.
Problem: Oil pressure light still on, and I have to head out into the boonies again today. Have I done permanent damage, and am I going to blow a head gasket? By the way, I do have two other lights on. One is a brake light that has been on for two years, as I think I damaged the sensor by vacuuming it, and yesterday a check air bag light came on. That one I don't why. Mechanic says it can happen from moving the chair back and forth. All of this may sound funny, and you may think I am really stupid, and I might agree, but not today. Maybe much later on.

black generic bumper

I have a 2008 Hyundai accent GSL 2 door hatchback, the dashboard odometer section is on a screen. I was wondering if there was an easy way to switch the odometer from KM to Miles?

2008 Hyundai Accent 9,230 miles, Question: At stop with clutch held in first gear will start to move slowly, can not get out of fist unless turn engine off

I have replaced resistor, thermostat, control panel and even when my heater is off, it blows very hot at the vents and the dash feels hot and it smells like something may be burning. What could this be.

It will go ok for a few days when I get carborator jets blown I've had fuel filter replaced,spark plugs,spark plug leads,distributor cap .theres no oil leaking no water where oil goes .this has been happening for 2 months on and off the longest it was going ok was week and half.Dont want to take repair shop if it's not repairable or if going to cost more to fix than its worth. Please advise very much appreciated.

I remove the fuel pump module and took to parts store. The manager hooked up test gauge which shows anometer putting out more micro amps when empty compared to full. He said fuel pump module working correctly. May be electric short in system. What do you think? Ever run into this problem before?

The gas gauge will not go below showing 1/2 full even when the tanks empty. I pulled the gas pump module out and manually moved the float up and down. No change. The parts store owner hooked up an meter to the anometer the float activates. The gauge showed more amps at empty that full. The parts store owner said the Hyundai fuel pump module is good. Must be short somewhere? What do you think.


Wear on inside rear tires. Took to dealership and they said the rear axle is bent. What is the cost of repair? Is repair a good idea or will I continue to have issues? It also burns oil. I have to replace all the oil every 2000 miles.

spark[plugs have new battery. don't know where to find alternator. would like to see and find placement of sparkplugs/alternator/and anything else that would effect starting the car. windshield wiper wouldn't work during the storm and had ti push manually. apparently the mechanism needed adjustedment. Car has not turned over since last night and it is 1:00p.m. When the car is jumped it does not mean the car will restart.

They have change the tranny fluid 2 times. They said drive it 500 km and if still noisy bring back again. This will be my 4th visit. Won't tell me what they suspect. Just keep saying they are following Hyundai protocol. The latest this week is the car made a huge noise from under the hood,then the car pulled back, did it again 5 sec later, then the traction light came on around every corner for about 30 minutes, road were dry and clear. I was driving in 6th gear. After it did it 2 times. I put the car in neutral and coasted. Traction usually makes a huge noise didn't this time.

Driving down the road, car stalls out at 40mph. I coast it off the side of the road. Car will not start, all lights are working and its cranking, but it will not start. 20 minutes later car finally starts, try to keep it going putters and stalls out. Another 5 minutes of trying and the car finally starts again. Now I'm able to drive it, but my tachometer is completely out. It makes the 15-20 minute drive home, it did seem like it was trying to stall out at one of the red lights - but I threw it into neutral and kept the engine revved. I pull into the driveway and let it sit for about 5 minutes at home, it's fine, idling at about 750 as it normally would. Turn the car off and back on, starts right up - Now my tachometer is working! Drive it around the block, everything works fine. Pull into the driveway let it sit - fine. Turn it off, turns back on fine. Next day turns on fine, makes the 45 min highway commute to work, fine. Driving it home, halfway back the RPMs start dropping, keeps running low RPMs and it's idling around 500 when stopped. Have it at the mechanic now, but he can't duplicate the problem, saying the car is working perfectly now, he doesn't see the issue.... Help please!!

I was pulling into a parking lot and it died on me. I can't get it to start. It will crank like it wants to start but won't. Any suggestions?

It is giving a white smoke nothing is leaking

was told it had a short is there a common area where these cars are known to short

I have changed the plugs, pvc, air filter, put in injector cleaner, and a new fuel cap. I have orderd a tsp sensor. will this take care of the problem?

It can take up to five minutes turning the switch on and off to get them off. I don't have an alarm so they can't be timing out. Sometimes they will turn off after only a few seconds of playing with the switch. Is there a relay that might be going bad. Hyundai wants $120 an hour just to poke around and look.

I have a 2006 Hyundai Accent. Went to take in for 60,000 mile scheduled maintenance. Was told that they couldn't get the hood open and that it could possibly cost an additional $200 or more depending on what is broken. Already going to be paying $675 for the service. I would like to know if that sounds reasonable and what else I could do. Tried to pop the hood myself with the lever and would not open.

This is my first oil change since I pur the vehicle

Follows pavement with rougher pavement , noise becomes worse and

increases with speeds above 50 mph to unusually high levels.

Can a piece of insulation be missing from underneath OR a bad wheel bearing adding to problem.

Tires are Cooper GL which came with car.

How to reduce/eliminate the noise ?

Key won't turn ignition. It acts like its frozen