I just bought it. the first codes it pulled wereP0170,P0172, and P0175. I cleaned the MAP sensor and ran a can of fuel injector cleaner through it and cleared the codes. About 400 miles later the 1070 and 1072 codes came back. It also surges at idle while it is warming up. It seems sluggish during acceleration until about 3000 RPM then clears up and takes off. Any idea of where to start??

What is this caused by and how much is the repair?

there is oil leaking around the seal on top of the engine

It has fire and gas but not starting when I hold the petal to the floor it hits what could be my problem

The ignition will turn with the key but its acting like it has no battery power to it. When the key is turned off, the steering wheel stays unlocked and turns. It won't even roll start. I've been told it could be the switch, or the lock cylinder, or the harness could be bad. can someone please tell me which it is or what it really is? Thanks.

how do i prevent from happening again

Car still won't start I have replaced almost everything car wants to start do bad and almost does but won't what else can I do?

just changed timing belts. engine runs smooth up to when vtec power should kick in. ran normal before belt change. brand new plugs turning sooty in one day.

need the codes to reinstall also how to install

I just replaced the brake light switch but still they stay on and now make a pinging sound anyone know how to fix this

I just replaced the brake light switch

So, I went to start my car this morning. It started literally squeeling like a pig. I noticed a smell, so i turned it off. My daughter said your cars smoking mom. I just thought it was because it was cold. I turned the car back on. The battery light is now on, but the car is on. just idling rough. i sit there for about ten minutes you know thinking it just needed to warm up. The heat and everything worked in it. Then, it just died, but the heat and everything was still on. The key would turn over, but not crank. My dad says it's the alt, but im not so sure. i told him it was doing the squeeling sound when i started it about six months ago, and he said nothing was wrong with it. it has been riding rough for the past month.

Feels like there is no resistence behind the button.

Driving down the road the engine just dies out of nowhere.I have 2 lights on my dash 1 being check engine (error says o2 sensor) , 2 is my ATTS. Now I don't believe that they are related. When the engine dies my car does'nt have power to the radio, dash or no power to my brakes or power steering. I tryed to pop the clutch while coasting after it dies, nothing happens. I will turn the key to start it again I will get the noise like the car is running and hearing the starter grinding. I try turing the key a few times in about 5 or 10 seconds later, it runs like nothing happened and drive normally.their is no hesitation in the engine or bog when it starts back up. The only thing I can think of is an ignition switch.
Any input in this problem will help.

I have a 99 prelude with 183000 miles. 5 speed. I bought it new and have driven it daily for almost 15 years. A couple of weeks ago it wouldn't crank and my mechanic ( who I trust ) says the heads have collapsed, it's not getting nearly enough compression and needs a new motor.

I don't mind spending $1500 to $2k on it but my fear is that it will never be right again. I adore the car. Is a new motor really my only option and if so how likely is it that a mechanic not specializing in Hondas will be able to successfully replace the motor? I've been told the prelude is very hard to repair this way. I'm dieing to keep the car but don't want to waste thousands and still not have a reliable car.

How do I stop it? And I can't lock my doors cus th car thinks I have a key in it!

I tested solenoid it has 16 ohms resistance an seems to be clicking good when I apply 12 volts

2.2 Prelude SOHC shuts off while driving. Replaced ICM and it was fine for about a month then I had the same problem again Some say ignition switch, others say bad ICM, i don't have a clue as to what the problem is. Can anyone give me some insight???

We've replaced everything except the flex lines, still gets hot and smells like burning rubber.

usually between 4th to 5th gear is just cuts outs and dies. I will coast after is dies restart the car and when I put it back in gear and press the throttle is cut a off and dies again. repeat same said steps but then the car wouldn't start back up. I sat for a min or two and it started right back up. first I thought it only happened when it rained outside but it just happened twice on a beautiful hot summer day. I do have a a hole in my flex pipe but I just ordered a new flex pipe idk if the lack of pressure would cause a shott down like that but it seems unlikely.

car ran good, then started missing, jerking, no power, will not start no! have replaced exhaust sensor, new plugs, coil, wires