Honda Civic Hybrid QuestionsRefine by vehicle
From what I have read the car has what is called DUAL SCROLL AC. Normally the electric battery runs the AC but when it gets really hot outside calling for more AC the system switches from electric to belt driven AC. What seems to me to be happening is when the car switches to belt driven AC it stops blowing cold.
This has happened a few times when it was 90 degrees or hotter out and happened in the middle of the dead heat. But earlier in the day and later in the night the AC worked fine on the same days.
Primarily I noticed this in idle or at low speed in stop and go traffic, then when I went on the highway it worked again. If in idle if I revved the engine it would somewhat cool but not at top performance and because I was driving downtown in stop and go traffic it was not a big help.
Any ideas what would cause this?
estimated cost of the 2 options within $150 + -.
and estimated future mileage on both options.
The "Check Engine" lite is on.. The car has 157,000 miles on it..is the IMA bad or is it the Battery, or both?
My MIL light came on sometime back. I had the problem diagnosed by Auto Zone where they gave me Bank 1 Sensor 1 and it was replaced. The light will not go out even after resetting. Now it reads Bank 2. Are there more than 2 sensors and if so will replacing the downstream one help. Need an inspection bad!!!
I just had my air compressor replaced during a long cross country road trip. I haven't needed to use the air conditioner as it has been winter. Well, it was 87 degrees the other day (I live in Arizona) and found that the air conditioner is now blowing hot air (it didn't do that even when the compressor needed replacing) As I am new to the area I don't have a trustworthy mechanic yet and want to get an idea of what it may need before taking it to get fixed.
Are there Honda or aftermarket brake pads or rotors that will improve the brakes on the Civic Hybrid? With 3 passengers, it is very hard to stop this car in a safe stopping distance.
Went to garage for inspection of burning rubber from the front breaks. The mechanic there had put on new breaks and rotors a few months before. Waited 3 1/2 hours and heard impact wrench run continuiously 2 times. Then mechanic called me out to tell me that both of the 2 rear sway bar links were broken. First think I noticed was that both insides were completely clean and it did not look rusted out like they said. I said something to them about it. Reply back was, I know how well you take care of your car and would not drive in water holes and etc., and that is why they are not dirty. It must have just happened. I told them that it has been raining all week and I have been driving in it and I would think there would be some form of debris on them from the dirt and rain mixture. They told me my car would not pass inspection when due and it would cost me $200.00. I took pictures and a video of this. I no longer trust the mechanic who worked on my car. I will be going to another one. Questions for you.....How hard is it to change it out and how to tell if there was foul play, which I expect? I see it is bolted on. Looks easy, but I could be wrong. A male friend who is a hvac mechanic looked at it a couple of hours after I left the garage and he said that these were manually broken. Now, I don't know if you will get back to me, but I will say that all the symptoms you have described on here did not exist on my car. Thank you and have a nice day.
I bought this car in March. IMA and Check Engine light was on. Had diagnostic done at Honda asap. They said the only issue was the 12v. So I replaced it. Tech said there wasnt any communication found with the IMA system. So they didnt know why the light was on. So they did a software update. Lights were off for about 100 or so miles. Then came back on. Then a lil more time goes by, it would turn back. For the last few months, the lights would come on and just go off. The times it came on, it was raining. Ive noticed the light recently came back on when it was humid and raining. It hasnt turned off then. And its been over a month. Im trying to sell it now. I went to Autozone and the codes they pulled are P1149, P1420 and P1600. Ive done some research about these codes online, But still dont know what to do. Thank You in advance.
I bought this car in March. IMA and Check Engine light was on. Had diagnostic done at Honda asap. They said the only issue was the 12v. So I replaced it. Tech said there wasnt any communication found with the IMA system. So they didnt know why the light was on. So they did a software update. Lights were off for about 100 or so miles. Then came back on. Then a lil more time goes by, it would turn back. For the last few months, the lights would come on and just go off. The times it came on, it was raining. Ive noticed the light recently came back on when it was humid and raining. It hasnt turned off then. And its been over a month. Im trying to sell it now. I went to Autozone and the codes they pulled are P1149, P1420 and P1600. Ive done some research about these codes online, But still dont know what to do.
Thank You in advance.
No obvious mechanical issues - car drives fine, wheel bearings are not making at noise, brakes function correctly, etc. Is this normal or a hybrid charging issue?
i am replacing the timing chain on my 2006 civic hybrid and would like know the marks so i can do this right
My dealer is telling me that the problem is the CVT valve body and needs to be replaced... for $1,769.24. This feels like theft to me if this is a known and common problem.
The interior rear deck (back dash) of our 2005 Honda Civic hybrid has been pitting over the last couple years (especially if you touch it with anything) and now the speaker screen is collapsing inward. This implies faulty material that can't withstand heat and cold but I don't know what to do about it. Has anyone else experienced this?
Among other things I noted the upper right motor mount? where it connects to engine, one of the bolts that threads into the engine was loose. The impact broke the thread area out of the engine/component. What is that component that I need to replace? Water pump?
the noise comes and goes, when i press the gas and release it, pops like a gear or bolt is lose, it comes and goes. one mecanic said it sounds like a transmision mount or something inside the transmission is going bad
anyone with a honda civic hybrid with cvt transmission ever had this noise.
the gear is not select show code p0780 and p1898
with code p0780 and p1898
DTC codes for engine coolant temperature and how to repair it
speedometer, brake indicator brake systems warning, battery power indicator, etc. are all malfunction. A previous answer hear suggested the alternator might be bad, but a mechanic and a dealer serviceman say there is no alternator. What could be wrong? Thanks.
speedometer works sporadically(mostly stays on "0")
battery function goes up & down from high to low
brake light and brake systems lights are on when brake is off
symbols under the brake light are on
IMA indicator is on
battery light goes on & off
This started two days ago on start-up
car runs well, but is a little slow to accelerate at first.
I bought this car in March with 37000 miles on it. Oil has been changed once. Oil light is always on. Thanks for any help.
Today my wife bought 2005 Honda Civic Hybrid (automatic transmission, mileage=220k) and she found that:
1. The IMA light is on
2. The check engine light is on
3. The battery charger light is on
4. The AC in the car does not work. (I turned it on but no cool air comes out)
5. The Battery on the right side of IMA ( I think that it is the indicator of IMA battery capacity) is TOTALLY empty.
6. Maintenance due light is showing..
Are these problems results of weak battery? can I buy a bettery at Junkyard?
The dealer we've taken the car to has told us that the car has two cc that need to be replaced. Are there really two??
I am pretty handy with cars but never fixed engine codes. I would like to do it my self this time... the car has 88k and is mostly highway driven. What steps should I take?
I change plugs . Whats next?
I'm new to this forum, but hoping to gain some good insight in the ongoing issues I am having. So I am having the same IMA battery problems that everyone else is. SO here is what is going on. Let's say I arrive home from work, the IMA batt gauge reads FULL. the car remains parked in my driveway. Next moring when I get in to the car, the IMA battery gauge is down to 2 bars. I start going and in just a few minutes the IMA batt gauge spikes out again. Over the course of my 22 mile commute the battery drains and recharges at least 3 or 4 times. Issue 2- the Trip-o-meter, both trip A and Trip B at stuck at 35.5, and hasn't moved from that reading for weeks. Dating back maybe 6 months prior to experiencing all of these issues, the tripmeter would flutuate at least 1/10 on a mile either up or down, depending upon my driving behavior. THE QUESTIONS- 1- I was wondering if someone would be able to advise me how to reboot the IMA CPU.
2- if anyone has any other suggestions how to address these issues.
3- suggestions for mileage improvement. the best I have ever gotten is 36.4MPG.
Battery replacement is not really an option right now financially speaking.
when i put the transmission on D or R , a very high upsetting voice out from the car as long as the car is running.
When it drifts right, I have to correct it to the left and then it over corrects and doesn't come back to center. It is subtle, but the tightness causes the least amount of pressure on the steering wheel, and it will veer dangerously to one side or another. It is exhausting to be constantly having to monitor the steering this way.
The interior lights went out as well as the rear lights. the reverse and break lights still work. When tracking found the the passenger side marker lights were blown. replaced lights and fuse that was also blown. blowns again. any ideas whre to start looking for problem
After diagonostics were run on the vehicle the dealership said that there was a broken transmission mount. He also said he as not exactly sure what is wrong with the transmission. He wants to first replace the mount, and then if that does not alleviate the problem---the car making bumping and thumping noises upon acceleration from stopped position-- he wants to do a transmission flush. If that still does not fix the problem he wants to replace the starter clutch.
I am hopeful that the mount is the problem, as it is apparently cracked and I am inclined to allow the dealer to replace the mount, but I would like a professional opiniion as I know nothing about cars.
The A/C cools when I start up the car, and runs nicely for a while, but cuts out when I've been driving for a while. Then it will intermittently cool, but at less than full capacity.