Honda Civic Hybrid QuestionsRefine by vehicle
former flood car, Had 6 miles on it when purchased, suspect a short somewhere, how do I trouble shoot? car gets better than 44 mpg consistently battery shows charging and will fully charge when driving so IMA appears to be working. Can turn A/C off and restart car and IMA light will stay off, but comes back on as soon as A/C turned on. Any suggestions?
p1570 code and 1433
I have been told my motor control module and my ima motor sensor are not working and need replaced. I was told the transmission needs to be taken out to do this. Can anyone confirm this would be the case? I just put a new IMA battery in car because light was on, no assist or auto stop and my 12 volt battery is not recharging. I am just looking for some confirmation as this seems to be an extremely expensive fix and I have already put so much money in this car.
The steering has become harden. The abs doesnt work.. while driving all meter/dash lights goes off. Showing all sensor lights plus its almost impossible to drive the car now.
Plz help me out....
Shop does't answer calls now and I don't know who to go to. The system seems to be working but it won't pass inspection because the IMA trips the service engine light. Other problem which may be related is the A/C works great until the engine shuts down at a stop then the A/C won't come back on for another day!
I replaced a dead engine battery and the car started twice successfully. Then I left it in my garage overnight. In the morning I turn the key and it is completely unresponsive. Tried jumping it just in case, but that did nothing.
The only thing I can think of is that I entered the radio code wrong 3x, but surely that doesn't shut the car down? Help please.
Do to the extensive publishings on issues, mileage and age caps for warranties, I'd rather not replace the IMA with another 2004 battery. Can I use a current years instead?
Also, looking at car-parts.com, I'm unsure which parts to repair. Parts listed for 'battery pack', ' core', 'grid charger' and there's a separate computer module?
Trying to repair my vehicle for less than 1G and it seems possible, if I do my homework.
just happened, cleared haven't driven it yet...
I have maintained my car impeccably from the day I've owned it. In the 8 years I've owned it, I've had to completely replace the whole airbag system, air conditioning system, heating system, and the IMA battery. Now the transmission went out yesterday. It isn't worth repairing anymore. This car has cost me more to operate in the 8 years I've owned it then my 08 Ford F150 I purchased in 2008. I will never own another Honda product. I've called Honda of North America and they have refused to help with any of those repairs including the IMA battery, which went out when the car had 130K miles. They argued with me for days and then finally paid for labor cost. I paid $2200 for the IMA battery, $650 for the air conditioning system and $1200 for the airbag system. Honda is terrible in customer service and paying for any repairs the government hasn't forced them to under recall.
I had the 12V battery changed last week and everything worked fine after that. Then I went back to have air bag replaced and they noticed the IMA light and engine light were on(I didn't notice it). They told me that the IMA battery needed to be replaced. (diagnosed codes P1435 and P1433) They said the car is safe to drive. So should I follow the recommendation to change the IMA battery? My mileage is only 69,900 and I purchased it for less than 5 months.
IMA & check engine lt on; code = electric battery failure. However, no symptoms of battery failure as when 1st battery failed. Charging fine, holding charge fine. Only symptom is auto stop feature not working most of the time. Could it be another problem other than battery failure? Lt has been on for about 6 months+.
Intermittently. I replaced the alternator and it happened again. I replaced the battery and it happened again. Help??? what is wrong with this crazy thing?
Should I just trad it?
I have a question wich involves my honda leaning 11 millimeters on the drivers side. The Local Honda Dealer tells me thats normal due to the location of the batterypack and not a problem at all and that they have had more like that.
Now another Honda Dealer tells me that aint normal, and its needs to be checked. Anyone can tell me something about that since i tried to dig up all kinda schematics but they tell me the batterypack is balanced.
And i got only 1 month waranty left from a dealer wich isnt connected to either Honda dealers.
Thanks in advance, Pete
when i accelerated the car shakes a little the only code is p1122 tp sensor
when put into any gear the car makes a ginding noise, even when sitting still.as if noise were coming off the flywheel.
The trans seems to be shifting find and does not appear to be slipping. Noise in stops instantly when put in park or neutral.
Can you help me with a similar issue... My HCH 2005 rear sensors replaced by Honda 2 years ago and in the past month I got the same PO135 code for the rear sensors to be replaced, Honda verified the same and gripped with Honda not standing behind their product as the cost an arm and leg to be done by honda. Bought the Denso replacements and less than a month later, I am getting engine light on with the same replace sensor codes. Read this PCM option as a solution and a check under the hood for the . under the hood VIN J and it wasn't their. Is my HCH eligible for a PCM update? JHMES96695S000119
Any advice would help...
It has had a transmission flush because of recall back then for the transmission recall of the shutter/vibration when starting to drive car. Still had the shutter sound afterwards, but very little. Mechanic at dealership said that was normal for hybrids. So now this is happening. Replace or repair? The cost? 93,000 miles on car. Thank you to whomever replies back. I really appreciate it.
When the engine is hot and it is shut off, it doesn't want to start back up or idle very easily. No problem when the engine is cold. Also, I have had no problems with the auto shut off/auto start while driving .....it seems to work okay. One other thing I have noticed is the radiator fapn seems to run much longer when the car is shut off than before....up to 5 minutes. Any suggestions on what is causing these issues? Fuel pressure regulator/filter, etc?
I've checked the fuse. I've check the deoor regulator motor by hooking up a 12 volt battery direct with lead wires, and it worked fine. I am curios if its the power switch on the door itself, but having a hard time locating one on the web?
I have a new battery, I charged it, It will start the car, I read the voltage at 12 volts, over night the voltage drops to 8 volts and will not crank the car. If I charge the battery then disconnect the negative side and the next morning re connect the negative side the battery is 12 volts and will start the car; I can drive the car shut it off re-start the car all day fine. Can anyone help?
My battery light is on(red, square box). My car is not charging or assisting.
Local dealer quoted $250 just to assess what is wrong with A/C on this car, told them over phone was getting weak, warm air flow.