137
questions

Do to the extensive publishings on issues, mileage and age caps for warranties, I'd rather not replace the IMA with another 2004 battery. Can I use a current years instead?

Also, looking at car-parts.com, I'm unsure which parts to repair. Parts listed for 'battery pack', ' core', 'grid charger' and there's a separate computer module?

Trying to repair my vehicle for less than 1G and it seems possible, if I do my homework.

just happened, cleared haven't driven it yet...

I have maintained my car impeccably from the day I've owned it. In the 8 years I've owned it, I've had to completely replace the whole airbag system, air conditioning system, heating system, and the IMA battery. Now the transmission went out yesterday. It isn't worth repairing anymore. This car has cost me more to operate in the 8 years I've owned it then my 08 Ford F150 I purchased in 2008. I will never own another Honda product. I've called Honda of North America and they have refused to help with any of those repairs including the IMA battery, which went out when the car had 130K miles. They argued with me for days and then finally paid for labor cost. I paid $2200 for the IMA battery, $650 for the air conditioning system and $1200 for the airbag system. Honda is terrible in customer service and paying for any repairs the government hasn't forced them to under recall.

I had the 12V battery changed last week and everything worked fine after that. Then I went back to have air bag replaced and they noticed the IMA light and engine light were on(I didn't notice it). They told me that the IMA battery needed to be replaced. (diagnosed codes P1435 and P1433) They said the car is safe to drive. So should I follow the recommendation to change the IMA battery? My mileage is only 69,900 and I purchased it for less than 5 months.

IMA & check engine lt on; code = electric battery failure. However, no symptoms of battery failure as when 1st battery failed. Charging fine, holding charge fine. Only symptom is auto stop feature not working most of the time. Could it be another problem other than battery failure? Lt has been on for about 6 months+.

Intermittently. I replaced the alternator and it happened again. I replaced the battery and it happened again. Help??? what is wrong with this crazy thing?

I have a question wich involves my honda leaning 11 millimeters on the drivers side. The Local Honda Dealer tells me thats normal due to the location of the batterypack and not a problem at all and that they have had more like that.

Now another Honda Dealer tells me that aint normal, and its needs to be checked. Anyone can tell me something about that since i tried to dig up all kinda schematics but they tell me the batterypack is balanced.

And i got only 1 month waranty left from a dealer wich isnt connected to either Honda dealers.

Thanks in advance, Pete

when i accelerated the car shakes a little the only code is p1122 tp sensor

when put into any gear the car makes a ginding noise, even when sitting still.as if noise were coming off the flywheel.
The trans seems to be shifting find and does not appear to be slipping. Noise in stops instantly when put in park or neutral.

Can you help me with a similar issue... My HCH 2005 rear sensors replaced by Honda 2 years ago and in the past month I got the same PO135 code for the rear sensors to be replaced, Honda verified the same and gripped with Honda not standing behind their product as the cost an arm and leg to be done by honda. Bought the Denso replacements and less than a month later, I am getting engine light on with the same replace sensor codes. Read this PCM option as a solution and a check under the hood for the . under the hood VIN J and it wasn't their. Is my HCH eligible for a PCM update? JHMES96695S000119
Any advice would help...

It has had a transmission flush because of recall back then for the transmission recall of the shutter/vibration when starting to drive car. Still had the shutter sound afterwards, but very little. Mechanic at dealership said that was normal for hybrids. So now this is happening. Replace or repair? The cost? 93,000 miles on car. Thank you to whomever replies back. I really appreciate it.

When the engine is hot and it is shut off, it doesn't want to start back up or idle very easily. No problem when the engine is cold. Also, I have had no problems with the auto shut off/auto start while driving .....it seems to work okay. One other thing I have noticed is the radiator fapn seems to run much longer when the car is shut off than before....up to 5 minutes. Any suggestions on what is causing these issues? Fuel pressure regulator/filter, etc?

I've checked the fuse. I've check the deoor regulator motor by hooking up a 12 volt battery direct with lead wires, and it worked fine. I am curios if its the power switch on the door itself, but having a hard time locating one on the web?

I have a new battery, I charged it, It will start the car, I read the voltage at 12 volts, over night the voltage drops to 8 volts and will not crank the car. If I charge the battery then disconnect the negative side and the next morning re connect the negative side the battery is 12 volts and will start the car; I can drive the car shut it off re-start the car all day fine. Can anyone help?

My battery light is on(red, square box). My car is not charging or assisting.

Local dealer quoted $250 just to assess what is wrong with A/C on this car, told them over phone was getting weak, warm air flow.

Does anbody know how to get rid of that IMA light without replacing the battery pack?I tried removing to 12volt battery terminals and putting them bk on but that light eventually came bk. Please help thank you

From what I have read the car has what is called DUAL SCROLL AC. Normally the electric battery runs the AC but when it gets really hot outside calling for more AC the system switches from electric to belt driven AC. What seems to me to be happening is when the car switches to belt driven AC it stops blowing cold.

This has happened a few times when it was 90 degrees or hotter out and happened in the middle of the dead heat. But earlier in the day and later in the night the AC worked fine on the same days.

Primarily I noticed this in idle or at low speed in stop and go traffic, then when I went on the highway it worked again. If in idle if I revved the engine it would somewhat cool but not at top performance and because I was driving downtown in stop and go traffic it was not a big help.

Any ideas what would cause this?

estimated cost of the 2 options within $150 + -.
and estimated future mileage on both options.

The "Check Engine" lite is on.. The car has 157,000 miles on it..is the IMA bad or is it the Battery, or both?

My MIL light came on sometime back. I had the problem diagnosed by Auto Zone where they gave me Bank 1 Sensor 1 and it was replaced. The light will not go out even after resetting. Now it reads Bank 2. Are there more than 2 sensors and if so will replacing the downstream one help. Need an inspection bad!!!

I just had my air compressor replaced during a long cross country road trip. I haven't needed to use the air conditioner as it has been winter. Well, it was 87 degrees the other day (I live in Arizona) and found that the air conditioner is now blowing hot air (it didn't do that even when the compressor needed replacing) As I am new to the area I don't have a trustworthy mechanic yet and want to get an idea of what it may need before taking it to get fixed.