Honda Accord Hybrid QuestionsRefine by vehicle
I just replaced my brake pads and turned the rotors, now they vibrate really bad. Can the charger on the front wheels cause this?
When driving on the freeway my battery over charges and the IMA and ck engine light comes on. Is there any way to keep that from happening?
Hi,long story short, I took my car to the dealer for a oil change and they didn't put enough oil ,drove like that for 2500 miles with out know in
It was raining and I drove to the doctor, as I was leaving the car shut off and would not start. Had it towed and when I stick the key in the lights flash and then goes out.
Brake peddle was going to the floor, replaced back calipers, master cylinder & ABS module, brakes were bled. Now the peddle goes to the floor 1/2 the time and if is given 1 pump then brakes work as normal for that moment. What now?
I already pulled the back seat down still does not work. It doesn't look like it's the key or latch.
How much will it cost?
Just happened today it is very cold out so im thinking that this is why cause ive never had this problem car is 5months old and on 2483 miles.
Paid $110 @ HondaCarson to run the diagnostic and needed a $2500 battery pack plus labor to fix this issue. I need a second opinion for the cheapest repair.
Looking at other submissions here, response was POAC4 is a generic "IMA not working code". Dealer explained that code is "Hybrid Battery Pack Current Sensor Circuit High".
Can anyone else confirm this explanation and potential diagnosis?
on battery light is on and not charging, then turn engine off restart and light off and now it is charging
This car ran perfectly until timing belt change at 105K. Current mileage 160K. Since then MFI periodically comes on. Code says fouled spark plug(s) Changing fouled plug(s) is only a temporary fix (5 K miles). Dealer has changed all spark plugs, adjusted valves. Compression testing shows near perfect in all cylinders. Occasionally indicator light for hybrid battery comes on but goes out. There has been a rumble for some time when the electric motor syncs to the gas motor shutting down some of the cylinders. the VCM system The dealer thinks the fix to all our problems including spark plug fouling is changing the torque converter. We're slowly being bled to death.$$$$. This motor is computer controlled. I'm suspicious of known issues like the already mentioned VCM system, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) or other electronic issues like fuel pump relay. Perhaps the computer needs to be reloaded like PC's. I know there are others out there having the same problems. Let's get together.
I have a 2005 Honda accord hybrid and only had it 2 weeks and its throwing out white smoke and there's a noise coming out the engine what can that be and how much would it coast me to fix
My car has 161316 miles on it (!) and has been a great car ever since I got it used 3 years ago! It's been a bit sluggish lately and just isn't getting the mileage it used to get. And it's been acting a bit strange. So I took it to a local mechanic and had the codes read. Here it goes:
VIN # JHMCN36585C003848
CK Trans Operation Advise-
-Trans Indicator Light Flashing
Codes--Trans Module:P0722 Output Shaft
(Countershaft) Speed Sensor No Signal,
P1717 Reverse No Position, U1260 ATFP Control TCM/PCM
Comm Failure. IMA Code: P1575 Motor Power Inverter (MPI) Module Voltage Malfunction, P0700 A/T System Malfunction, PAOC4 Ybrid PCM Requested MIL Light--ABS Codes 61-1 BAT Voltage Low. 83-1 ECM Relation Failure, AIR Bag 61-10 Open LF Seat Belt Buckle Switch.
I have an AUL Extended Warranty (Estate Coverage) that expires at the end of next month, and it is my hope that if I fight hard enough I WILL get this fix covered under my insurance...
Help me get knowledgeable on all this please!
how can i get the installation disc for my car so i can use my navigation in nigeria
and i have vibrations when i brake on top speed
Had it jumped. took it to the dealer they said nothing was wrong. Second time, I had it towed. Dealer replaced battery. Third time I had it towed. Dealer replaced some sensor. After a month it would not start again. Had it towed. Dealer upgraded my onboard computer and told me I don't drive it enough. One month later, the battery indicator goes from 6 bars to 0 bars while driving. The car works but I know this is not right. I love the car and have 89,500 mi. on the car. I am the original owner. Any suggestions on this problem?
i have only the check engine indication on but the IMA indication came on but the IMA was still assisting the engine. when i parked and started the car after some time the IMA indication was off
the mile per gallon counter remains on 23.3mpg and does not change even after going on high acceleration
when i apply my brakes and stop my batteries are full but the engine keeps coming on and off and my brake pedals go flat and comes up hard
Current gear spoilt beyond repair.
We have the touch screen panel for the controls and it says it switches but that's the only vents that don't work
The button you press while pressing the break doesn't go all the way in, it's like it's frozen. I have to preheat my car for atleast a half an hour and I've noticed if I hold on the gear shift for awhile it will heat it up and come out of park.
The problem has started yesterday. What can I do to fix the problem? Is it fixable? It hasn't had a diagnostic performed.
'05 Accord Hybrid V-6 3.0L, traction control
the key fell on the ground and the case got broken, we lost the chip.
Getting a loud vibration and irritating, high pitched squeal upon deceleration. Occurs regularly at about 35mph and below. Loud vibration sounds as though it is originating under the hood. Accompanying squeal either under the hood or perhaps in driver side dashboard.
The manual says transmission and brake fluids should be changed at 125,000 miles. The dealerships insists it needs to be done at 30,000 and 100,00 miles or 65,000 and 125,000 miles. I want to do what is correct not what the dealer wants in order to make money. Please advise.
First: The car has been off for several hours. Next: Get in and start the car. Put in gear and start on your way. Problem is noticed when you need to stop. The force required to get the brakes to function is equivalent to having no power assist at all. Pumping the brakes several times will bring the pedal force back up to normal if it's not too cold outside. If it is cold the power assist doesn't work for up to 45 seconds when outside temp is below 32 degress F. This started happening this winter so I thought that there must be moisture freezing somewhere in the brake system. But it's been doing it briefly when the outside air temp is as warm as 60 degrees F. Any ideas? Thanks! Neil