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Honda Questions

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shifts into d with no issues

The cable is snapped. I was told that the only way to repair it was to replace the entire door motor asembly.

checked all fuses ??

I have 2007 Honda and have bn using it for 3yrs without issues. Bought it 2nd hand.

Engine light has been on for a while, I'm getting about 17 MPG. The starting problem only happens when the car is cold like when it has been sitting there for a few hours, then the rest of the day it's fine. I have already changed the o2 sensor and my engine light reads fuel problem.

I replaced my Y21 transmission due to the fact a bearing shattered. I bought another one same tranny code and placed it but none of the gears would go in.. It's exactly what happened when my other one went out and no gears would go in.. What is the problem? Any insight would be greatly appreciated

it started a few weeks ago and now it only comes on when it feels like it sometimes its for a day sometimes for an hour or 2 its only annoying when the song is in stereo not mono im not very mechanically saavy when it comes to speakers and electrical problems

This doesn't seem to affect the handing of the vehicle. However, when the light is on I can't shift into the lower gears. I successfully followed the owner's manual instruction to turn this light off. But then it comes back on in a short time of driving.

I also hear a squeaking sound coming either the water pump or the a/c compressor.

and also my door lock won't lock can you please help me

Constantly. I thought maybe bad gas?? I added additives and premium afterward ...but after clearing out P1129, it reappeared..and still having a lot of problems. Should I replace the MAP sensor vaccum line? Or ?

Can't loosen the Rotor nut. Does it loosen counter clock wise or loosen by clockwise. Roy

I changed the canister and all the solenoids attached to it and it changed the purge valve at the firewall and still having this issue and code.

any reasons why they are not working now?

When i take off the timing belt cover, sometimes the belt is slack near the tensioner, sometimes it is taut...have already replaced the thermostat, and cleaned and flushed the radiator, and checked the cooling fan clutch

I watched the U-Tube vids and replaced the latch actuator, but no go... the door closes, it gets pulled tight to the body and then the rear of the door pops out about an inch.

it just started today drove fine before went to put key in an lights come on but wont turn over dose not make any noise an it is like it is stuck in gear

the wheel bearing was replaced and the ABS warning light was on ever since then

This cars transmission when cold shifts nicely and is very responsive (gutsy), but after a brief warm up period all the speeds basically go gutless, and the only speed/gear is in the 2 position. There is also a very loud clunk when you shift it in and out of park, which my customer doesn't hear because the poor young man is deaf. I asked if he felt it and he said yes. He was relieved someone knew what that was. lol. I have heard a lot of relatively bad stuff regarding this transmission, from the college I attend and a transmission shop here in town, ran by a friend of mine. However, my hunch about this transmission running like a bat out of hell until it warms up are these. The fluid smells scorched, and is more of a dark brown than pink. So I am thinking either fluid has lost its viscosity, the filter inside is clogged, or maybe the transmission cooler lines/cooler could be clogged or very restricted. What do you all think? Tim Pueblo Colorado

Main battery fuse

For example you put the key in the ignition then you turn the key to the position just before the start position and all the dash lights are suppose to light up for a second.The engine light comes on and blinks once.In the run position no engine light is lit.Thank you in advance for your answers.

I just changed the master cylinder and slave with brand new parts and ever since than I've been having this issue

Will not open automatically or manually