Honda Questions

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Then to position three to start the car,it huffs and puffs and is hard to start and smell gas. replaced battery, spark plugs, plug wires,destributor pack. Engine light comes on and stays on.I took it to my macanic and we detected misfire code on three, and four cylinders. Now he,s scratching his head.Could it be the Ignition Control Switch? Miles 388,789.Note: other than this the car purrs like kitten. drives beutifally.Thank You.

just came on, had the code changed, and the light went off, but a week later it came back om.
the computer relayed 9-3 problem

The map light for the driver and passenger does not come on when the door is opened but the other two dome lights turn on in the middle and back

regassing the diagnosis report said an open in tha pressure sensor circuit. Where is the sensor located and is it a big job to replace

good signal from under dash fuse box and at c105 connector

Accord backfires and loses power especially on Hills or when trying to accelerate quickly. CEL on, codes misfire. New plugs, wires, alternator, catalytic con., flex pipe, fuel pump, Inc cleaned. Help! Please!

Ok so i bought a new windshield. Wiper motor and a new windshield. Wiper switch i turn the car on and it wont stop i havea 1993 dx hatchback deos anyone know the problem or where the fuses are ?

does it in all gears I've replaced wires plugs fuelfiler oxygen sensor an airfilter any ideas does it always

Sometime work sometimes no work

I gave a 1995 Honda accord LX coupe 2d. I drove it yesterday an it ran fine. I get in it those morning an it will not start. I have no dash lights, radio. My interior lights work though. What am I missing.

How do they calculate and labor costs

I have an oil leak on the passenger side of my engine. There is oil pooling in only on the passenger side in the valley of my block as well as covering the side of engine where the belts are. Tech said there were no leaks on the cam or crank seals when they did the 200,000 mile belts and tune up. It was leaking before this tune up with the thought that replacing these seals would be the solution. I have taken it back several times with no solution. They want to put JB Weld all over the top of the block because the Honda tech is telling me now that it is a porous block problem which after researching I do not believe this is the problem or solution. I only have oil on the passenger side and it is sprayed all over the engine/belts on that side as well as pooling in the engine valley. Is there a possible gasket or bolt that could be causing this leak and the pooling in the valley of the block?

Shift shaft seal accumulator seal & 2 pan gaskets. Honda quoted me $436

As I was shifting into 1st to pull out I heard a pop an couldnt shift out of neutral. My shop quoted me $1200 to replace clutch kit, flywheel & slave cylinder. After repair mechanic stated he couldnt crank the car, last thing he can try is replace starter (more money). I drove car home but within a few days noticed it was shifting hard. I got the same advice by a few people to give it a few wks its normal with a new clutch. Well it got increasingly diffacult to shift, (mostly 1st). Then as Im sitting at light one day it took 2 green lights to get into 1st. My mechanic says next time this happens pump my clutch then let him know if it helps. It did help next few times this randomly happened. But then it quit happening and was shifting great. A mo later it randomly started again and now with reverse also. The car could shift so smoothly for days then Id get off of work and be unable to back up, when I did get in reverse gear would then stick an Id havs to stall the car to get out of reverse. Mechanic says the adjustments are correct, he tried bleeding the clutch an it went to the floor. Says fluid was leaking so not enough preassure to engage the clutch an would be another $350 parts/labor to replace clutch master cylinde. After paying $1740 an issue still not fixed I couldn't afford another $350. Sev wks later and desperate I have my brother who is semi knowledgeable look at it, he loisened bolt from clutch push pedal an adjusted it. It worked great like I was expecting the 1st time for about a mo, I thought he had found the real problem, but after I let my roomate drive my car one day sge said it wasn't shifting into reverse sev times that day. Which it was shifting beautifully up till she drove it, dont know if she did anything caysing this or problem came back. I dont want to pay more money just to be told another problem arises or its still having sane issues or if Im just going to have to go with his word to get a working vehicle again. My car is 130,000 mi.

I was told by someone that the rear seal is probably good that normally the is the PCV Valve that is bad not the seal?

I changed everything that has to do with distributer but still no spark or fuel what else can it be

when i on my aircon in a few minutes the engine will stop?

when i own my aircon,in a few minutes the engine will stop

Mechanic did diagnostic ran dye test-no leaks. sent me home. air worked for 15 min. then out. Back to the shop. Ran the air there and tested compressor - said pressure was fine. Sent me home. Stopped working again. 3rd time- he checked it while motor running and air blowing warm. said I needed a new compressor $1248.00. Help!

Often when I start my car, it starts and runs fine, then I drive it and a little way down the road, the engine sputters and loses power like it's going to stall, then it comes back to life and is fine for the rest of the trip. It only happens right after starting it and driving a short ways down the road.

I've had the catalytic converter replaced, yet the code still pops up occasionally, and then goes out a few hours later, and doesn't come on again for weeks.

when it is not working the odometer and cruise still work. when coming to a stop i can hear a faint clicking coming from under the dash and then it usually starts working but sometimes goes for days before it starts working again. any ideas were to start looking?