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power comes back on after awhile from doing nothing but look at wires and check some fuses last time it happened was about 6months ago befor now and i just open and slammed the door a few times the first time
timing belt went while driving car on highway. Belt ,water pump and replacement belt changed. Timing is set correctly, , ignition coil replace but car will crank but will not start up. Wondering if internal engine damage was done. Is there any way to find his out.
No apparent leaks and car was previously owned by a chick so it's probably been this way a while. Checking fluid with engine off fluid shows about 1/4 inch over the full mark
I was driving home the other day and I noticed a puff of smoke come from under the hood, then all the lights on my dash died. Temp guage, Tachometer, fuel guage, and also my power windows went out. I was in traffic, and couldn't pull over to investigate, but the car didn't die on me. Later, I checked the fuses and found one blown for the car lighter. I replaced it anyway, but that didn't help my problem. I've been driving like this for 3 days, bought the Haynes manual for my model,but this issue isn't addressed in the manual. Can anyone give me an idea of what this might be?... I don't have the money for a professional mechanic.
I purchased a new 2012 Honda Ridgeline and I am the only driver. It has just under 30,000 miles and I was due for oil change so I also had the 30k service done. Before the service I started feeling a slight vibration when braking; like the front rotors might be slightly warped. The Honda dealer service dept. checked and told me the rotors were warped and could be turned. The brake pads were still in very good condition so there wasn't a safety issue. I asked how the rotors could be warped so soon and was told they see this happen even at less mileage and is usually due to driving habits. Also said it is caused by excessive heat. Most of the 30k miles were highway and country roads. Only recently have I started driving to a new job where I'm in "aggressive" driving conditions where I might be going 70mph and then need to slow down quickly. A couple of times I've needed to break hard; but not lock your brakes hard. So I guess I'm wondering if just a few hard braking incidents could cause my brakes to warp? I'm also curious if others have seen this with their Ridgelines or other Honda models. It just seems to me that the rotors shouldn't warp this quickly and if there is a problem with excessive heat, is there another type of brake pad that will not produce as much heat in mostly "normal" driving conditions. Thanks!
When car is warm and D4 doesn't light then the check engine light stays on and car will only dry start. Usually after 25 minutes at most the D4 will show and engine light will shut off after initial illumination. Car will start then
. any ideas?
80 chars killed me. I replaced the battery and now, when I turn on the head lights, the dash lights go dim. There are no indicator lights on. I have the CarMax warranty, but they don't answer their phones. Where else can I go that is covered by their warranty?
I thought it was the cat but it's not
There is tranmission oil in my cooling system and there is coolant in my transmission oil.
Is this estimate reasonable?
What can be damaged if not replaced?
All parts have been replaced except for fuel pump. Starter is good. What could the problem tje ignition switch?
I just purchased a used 2003 Accord last Saturday. It drove beautifully. Yesterday, all of a sudden, when my daughter was driving between 20-25 miles per hour the car would not switch to the higher gear and the RPMs went really high. What does this mean? Is my transmission going out on this car I JUST bought?
When I drive it take long to change gear and when I stop rpm goes up and down
Slipping when changing gears, regularly, taking foot off accelerator helps change into next gear. Sometimes a nasty jolt when changing. Whining noise when entering into third gear aswel as when becoming stationary, everytime. Engine comes on and off when it wants to.
The heat blew cold air even while moving for a long time then randomly started blowing slightly warmer air and proceeded to get cold again. It was about 60 degrees outside when this happened last. The car does NOT ever overheat. I have replaced the water pump about a year ago. The fluids were flushed then. I put a new thermostat in just before getting that work done. I know that the problem can be the Heater Core or an air lock. What else can cause this? I dont want to put more money into solutions that are not helping.
About a year ago my front passenger window just stopped working. I attempted to put it down one day and it was unresponsive. I had never attempted to get this fixed...I had just accepted it for the time. But about a month ago when putting my back driver side window up it just stopped. Right in the middle. Not completely up not completely down...just enough to taunt and infuriate me. Do you know how hot it is when not using a/c in the summer with only one front and one back window down...the back one locked in kid safety...ugh. ANYWAY, I want to fix this myself, however I can get no clear picture from everything I have read. Its the motor, its the regulator, its the master switch, its the rear switches, use the switch from the passenger rear for the broken driver rear to test the motor, then...the switch from the passenger rear wont work on the driver rear window. SERIOUSLY? I checked the fuses and replaced a bad one for the driver right window. The moment I hit the switch it blew the fuse again. removed the rear left window motor. So where should I start? Can anyone tell how they resolved this issue.
During test results read,@ 15mph the HC read 165 @25 mph it read 116
@15mph the CO under MEAS read 065
@ 15mph the NO(PPM) read 3135
@ 25mph it read 3105 what does this mean
Have checked p steering fluid. Isn't that kind of sound as it occurs at higher speeds. Feels more front than rear. Front U-joints? Rear diff?
It has had a transmission flush because of recall back then for the transmission recall of the shutter/vibration when starting to drive car. Still had the shutter sound afterwards, but very little. Mechanic at dealership said that was normal for hybrids. So now this is happening. Replace or repair? The cost? 93,000 miles on car. Thank you to whomever replies back. I really appreciate it.
When the engine is hot and it is shut off, it doesn't want to start back up or idle very easily. No problem when the engine is cold. Also, I have had no problems with the auto shut off/auto start while driving .....it seems to work okay. One other thing I have noticed is the radiator fapn seems to run much longer when the car is shut off than before....up to 5 minutes. Any suggestions on what is causing these issues? Fuel pressure regulator/filter, etc?
Window goes completely up in the closed position but makes a continual thud, thud, thud noise until I release the window button.
What this code is and how do I fix it.
Any trouble shooting I can try since I replaced the gasket seal, how hard is it to replace the rear main seal?
Whenever I start the car from a child start. (Meaning if it's been sitting for 5 hours or more). The car will crank over for a longer period than normal. Then, I'd I take off right away the accelerator seems very touchy, and the car surges and jerks for the first few mins of driving. After that the car runs beautifully.