A/C was blowing warm air, intermitten at first, then just warm air. Had a/c compressor, receiver drier, replaced. Worked fine for 3 months, but it didn't seem to get as cool as before. Now hot, and I mean hot air is blowing through the drivers side vents, and the passanger side vents seem to be fine. Does not matter if auto or dual climate is on. Tried to manually use fan & a/c, at different temperatures, does not matter. I've read about the a/c condenser problems, but if this was the case, wouldn't it blow hot through all the vents? I've been told that there is a ambient air temperature sensor located in the front of my vehicle, and this could get damaged or stop working and cause this. Haven't looked at this part yet, but will try. Someone mentioned the air blend door, and I will check this out to. If anyone fixed this problem or has an idea, I'd like to hear it

For some reason it jumped timing as I was cruising down the road about a week ago. Although I'm nowhere near being a mechanic, I'm pretty sure that's what it did simply because when I try to start it, it sounds the same as a Honda that I had some years back when the timing belt broke. It still turns over and the timing belt is still intact, but it sounds like it's just spinning freely.

But the wires from the aftermarket switch are colored differently than the ones on the original?????

car turn off on turns/ someone said change oil/what do you guys think is wrong, i'm learning how to work on this car myself, so help; an thank you all!!!

Have checked injectors for pulse with noid light. No pulse.
Have pulled and tested spark plug for spark. No spark.
Have checked codes - getP1290, P1299, P1295, P1515, P1220.
Replaced TPS and checked harness for continuity. All good.
Have replaced the crankshaft position sensor, had PCM checked by technician.
Still no start.
Cleaned and checked grounds, tested coils for voltage, tested injectors for voltage. All good.
Have unwrapped and inspected engine wiring harness for breaks.

NO START. Am ready to drag to auto auction.
Please help!!!

It will usually start again in an hour or so. It turns over well, but fire.

I'm used to driving manual, inside of car is so dark. I want to see when gear selections. Thanx cmr6737

Just bought a 97 Civic LX automatic trans with 70,000 miles. Noticed an intermittent knock after the first day of driving. Happens in turns at normal speeds, but also happens when driving straight, especially over dirt roads. Thinking it's suspension related as noise continues in neutral. It is not consistent. I can drive my dirt driveway with no sound, and other times it's audible. Engine is smooth, no sway or vibration, just a mild knock, knock, knocking. I thought about flushing the power steering fluid and adding recomended fluid. If it was dampeners or springs wouldn't the noise be constant? I don't think it's bushings or ball joints but the noise is not from the front - more underneath the seats... Any ideas?

motor - just got quoted $700 installed!

this will happen more at slow speed, not on main highway at driving speeds.

DVD wont eject.Perm. stuck.

V6 3.0 L Automatic

I need to replace the calipers and the brake rotor. I also need to swap the computer. I have a problem with a constant ticking noise coming from under the dash on the left side of the steering wheel and my indicator lights and signal lights flash in conjunction with the constant ticking. It still happens when I take out the ignition key. I have to take a post off the battery when I stop to prevent this from draining the battery.

AC works fine when air is cool. It engages fine a works for a while. Once the outside temp rises compressor stops engaging and AC start blowing hot air.

knock sensor

Does anbody know how to get rid of that IMA light without replacing the battery pack?I tried removing to 12volt battery terminals and putting them bk on but that light eventually came bk. Please help thank you

My 1997 Honda Accord loses power when I'm driving it. it hesitates to take off and then it picks up speed, slows down when I'm at a stop light. its scary I wont get on the freeway,, because of this problem. but once it gets going it goes. what could be the problem HELP ME PLEASE!

Vibrate when parked and put the gear to drive

front brake pads replaced 6 months ago. Brakes are perfectly fine. Only when engine heats and brakes pressed, it gives noises on pressing.


p1167 o2 code (upstream) throws intermittently, plus p0420 catalyst code. When the light goes off, we go to the inspection station, but it always says catalyst and evap not ready. Even though the o2 monitor says ready, could it still be the battery as the OP states?

when temps are hot outside you have to turn key to start position d4 light starts flasdhing in about 5 seconds and then fuel pump kicks in in about 5 minutes.very hot to wait 5 minutes and very frustrating we have changed all fuses and main relay nad fuel pump.it drives great after initial start. after intial start car will start in about 1 minute if d4 is still flashing I just turn it off and back on and its not flashing anymore.ive just had it been going on 3 yrs now and a lot of frustrating work and cant find the problem..please help

Neither the key fob nor control panel will open either door. They will open manually, but are heavy.

Not always, but more often than not, I am having tourble shifting into 3rd gear. It makes a grinding sound.

I am the second owner for Honda civic 2006. Bought the car 8 months back and just noticed that there is a leakage of coolant. Whenever I top off the coolant it holds good for 3 weeks before the engine again gets heated up. Later, my mechanic confirmed that there is a problem in engine block which has a crack in it. But the previous owner has made a temporary fix with a JB weld and epoxy coating for it. Though it worked for a while before giving up. Now I have asked my mechanic for a replacement engine (Original HONDA OEM engine). He had already made the replacement for the engine. I have spent around 3500$ for this replacement.

Only then I came to know about HONDA's warranty for cracked engine block problems. Honda care person confirmed that my VIN# is eligible for 10 years/unlimited mile warranty for the cracked engine block.

Given these circumstances, what are my options left? Now what should I do to claim a reimbursement (for $3500)towards the engine replacement cost with HONDA? Will HONDA encourage this claim as the old engine had a cracked engine block but there was a temporary fix in place on it?