Honda Questions

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After juggling the modes and temperature some times it fixes the problem not all the time.

What can it be.

when put into any gear the car makes a ginding noise, even when sitting if noise were coming off the flywheel.
The trans seems to be shifting find and does not appear to be slipping. Noise in stops instantly when put in park or neutral.

Whenever I park my vehicle on a slope it requires extra effort to shift gears from park and it makes a very loud noise.

If I juggle the modes and the temperature settings some times it starts to work fine

If I juggle the mode switch and the temperature setting sometimes the A/C starts working fine.

Their computer said it was PO303. All they did was replace spark pugs 1-4. If oil was on the spark plug wouldn't that indicate another problem? Car has 48,000 miles/

The key is not in the ignition. We noticed it when walking by the car. No pattern to it. Very random.

This happen when driving 35-45 mph on flat road and even on a very slight hill. Seems to be getting more frequent 4 to 5 times per short (>5 miles) trip, more on longer rides.

Need to know where OBD port gets ign. signal. Direct or through PCM or ECU..etc

This is a regular, recurring issue. I have replaced the alternator twice, and the main relay once (under dash, left of steering column, pain to get to!). Battery tests good. Battery cables appear fine. I will be cruising along and the Tach & speedo suddenly drop to zero and it starts draining battery power. The 'Battery' indicator light NEVER comes on. Driving without accessories (lights, radio, etc.) still seems to create the issues. An SAE certified mechanic, as well as Autozone, tested the car while running and stated that the car was charging at approximately 11.5-12 volts (too low, I know), so the alternator needed replaced. The alternator tests good OFF of the car. I can jump start after it dies and run it for a LONG time, so long as I do not use accessories. I am at the end of my rope. Any easy answers, I would LOVE to avoid taking it into a shop for repairs!

Also, when driving, the car will start acting like it is 'loading up' and getting ready to die, then there is a jerk, the 'Check Engine' light comes on, and it runs just great! This appears unrelated to the charging issue, however, but any help here would be nice too. Thanks!

is there anyway to completely get rid of it on my vehicle? if u unhook the battery the radio locks up until u get a code from the dealership, its affecting my door locks, and i am worried that even tho i found the fuse that runs it ill lock the whole car up if i just pull it out... i only ask cuz the cars previous owner had an amp, w a giant cable w a big fuseable linkage running under my floorboard & i want to take it off but cant unhook the battery w/o messing the radio up. i have the code its just a sob TO DO EVERYTIME

My dad had the heads and a new timing belt put on... it only came with 1 hubby accidently drove it a mile and the check engine light has been on ever since. i am obsessive about checking fluids and keeping 1/2 tank of high quality gas in driver door will not unlock at times, its hesitating, doesnt shift as easy,autozone put it on the machine & it said it misfired on all 4 cylinders(WTF,right,NO).&an O2 sensor codes as well. has new plugs, wires. timing right? itsmybaby

after disconnecting positive terminal on battery to reset mileage on i-Mid panel then check brake system, check power steering and two others came on so how do you reset those

I recently had a transmission fluid flush done and am still having difficulty shifting into reverse or first when I first start my car. The gears make loud grinding noises. Once I get it into gear, I have little to no issues shifting.

Only when it goes over 60, it won't do it while driving in town. It won't turn off till I turn off vehicle

Car has around 60k on it. Bought it last month. Dealer claimed everything had been tuned up. The other day the oil light came on, checked the oil and there was ZERO in it. Added oil, could not find an oil leak. Flashforward to this past weekend and my car began to die up a hill. Started just limping along, unresponsive to engine revving. VSA, ABS, and Emission system light came on. Check Engine light was on the other day, with oil light, but then went off. Had towed to dealer. Dealer says a spark plug was broken off, wants to replace that with a Full Tune-up. $375.00. We can't afford that right now.... Wondering what's going on?? I mean, the dealer just sold us the car. Why would it already need another tune up? AND I'm very capable of doing the Tune-up myself. Should I just do it myself and then take it back to the dealer? Thanks for any insight.

It started about a month ago, but the next time I started it. The sound was gone. I knew it had to me frequent for a mechanic to even here it if I brought it in anyway. Now I'm hearing the sound regularly. No check engine light or obvious problems. Just a rumbling sound that sounds like it's behind the speedometer. Any suggestions?


I have a 99 prelude with 183000 miles. 5 speed. I bought it new and have driven it daily for almost 15 years. A couple of weeks ago it wouldn't crank and my mechanic ( who I trust ) says the heads have collapsed, it's not getting nearly enough compression and needs a new motor.

I don't mind spending $1500 to $2k on it but my fear is that it will never be right again. I adore the car. Is a new motor really my only option and if so how likely is it that a mechanic not specializing in Hondas will be able to successfully replace the motor? I've been told the prelude is very hard to repair this way. I'm dieing to keep the car but don't want to waste thousands and still not have a reliable car.

No diagnostic code found when checked out. Distributor did need replacement, but problem still exists. Hesitates one time and then stalls when stopped at a light or when driving. Starts up again after a few minutes and then drives again.