Close

Honda Questions

Get answers to questions about your Honda at RepairPal. Find solutions, diagnose problems and get back on the road.

Refine by vehicle
×
Choose your vehicle
9,951
questions

It has had a transmission flush because of recall back then for the transmission recall of the shutter/vibration when starting to drive car. Still had the shutter sound afterwards, but very little. Mechanic at dealership said that was normal for hybrids. So now this is happening. Replace or repair? The cost? 93,000 miles on car. Thank you to whomever replies back. I really appreciate it.

When the engine is hot and it is shut off, it doesn't want to start back up or idle very easily. No problem when the engine is cold. Also, I have had no problems with the auto shut off/auto start while driving .....it seems to work okay. One other thing I have noticed is the radiator fapn seems to run much longer when the car is shut off than before....up to 5 minutes. Any suggestions on what is causing these issues? Fuel pressure regulator/filter, etc?

Window goes completely up in the closed position but makes a continual thud, thud, thud noise until I release the window button.

Thanks,
Kim

What this code is and how do I fix it.

Any trouble shooting I can try since I replaced the gasket seal, how hard is it to replace the rear main seal?

Whenever I start the car from a child start. (Meaning if it's been sitting for 5 hours or more). The car will crank over for a longer period than normal. Then, I'd I take off right away the accelerator seems very touchy, and the car surges and jerks for the first few mins of driving. After that the car runs beautifully.

I needed a jump on my car (bought new) 3.5 years after purchase. Haven't put more than 2,000 miles on it. "Excessive rippling" showed on the printout the AAA guy gave me. When I got the jump, I hadn't run the car for a few months (for certain personal reasons), and the battery had gone out. The battery on the car was replaced a year ago -- the original had died after 2.5 years -- so the battery in the car now is still new and functional, according to the AAA guy. I'm not super car savvy, but there are no other issues that I know of. I'm taking the car into the dealer but don't want to get taken advantage of. I'm aware that off-warranty, alternators are costly to replace. I'm just trying to figure out why it went bad in the first place with so little mileage on the car and whether I have any grounds to speak up at the dealership's car shop. Thanks for your input.

Whenever I start the car from a child start. (Meaning if it's been sitting for 5 hours or more). The car will crank over for a longer period than normal. Then, I'd I take off right away the accelerator seems very touchy, and the car surges and jerks for the first few mins of driving. After that the car runs beautifully.

Some have said it's the nature of the car. Some say to buy(flash pro)$600
Some say let the car warm up until the rpms fall from 1500 and the temperature of the car goes up 3 bars.

I live in Minnesota so winter's get pretty cold here. If this is normal I am alright with that just as long as I'm not doing damage to the car. I would just like to know before my 30 day warrantee with the dealership is over. The car has 43589 miles and it's a 6 speed manual. I love this car.

Everything is perfect except for this one issue..what do you suggest.

Thanks

If I pump the foot brake several times it seems to release and then I can shift normally again. I have only purchased the car and it happened twice today.

Alternator tested good on bench test. Ground connections are good. Battery is new and charged. Electronic load detector in underhood fuse box is new. All fuses are good. Inside and outside fuse box.

After leaving my parking lights on and totally draining my good battery, I jumped my 1985 Honda Accord SEi 1.8L (F/I) ES3 A/T Sedan. After hooking up the cables to both cars, I left the Mercedes running for about 20-30 minutes as the '85 Honda would not start--NOT A CLICK!! I was mystified. I checked the connections, and they were warm on the M-B. The sealed battery in the '85 Honda was so HOT that I could not leave my palm in contact on it's side. It was hissing, and I shut everything down. Voltage in the hot battery was 2.3 V. I thought I had ruined it. The next day I put it on a charger, and it came up to 12.8 V. and held it. AMAZING--. It was O.K. The Honda still would not turn over. I checked the Fuses in the PDC next to the battery, and one 65 Amp Main Fuse (thin, metal link 3/8" x 3") was melted/ blown. I "jury-rigged" that temporarily, and the car starts fine. Now, my problem is that I have no Dash lights. What other damage could I have done? Thank you guys so much for your past help. --- Carl -------

This started with the rear passenger tire, but now i hear it in the front tires as well.

at the stoplight, I had it in drive and it did not want to take off, now I'm not for sure if it is the transmission or a sensor.

My car has 161316 miles on it (!) and has been a great car ever since I got it used 3 years ago! It's been a bit sluggish lately and just isn't getting the mileage it used to get. And it's been acting a bit strange. So I took it to a local mechanic and had the codes read. Here it goes:
VIN # JHMCN36585C003848

CK Trans Operation Advise-
-Trans Indicator Light Flashing
Codes--Trans Module:P0722 Output Shaft
(Countershaft) Speed Sensor No Signal,
P1717 Reverse No Position, U1260 ATFP Control TCM/PCM
Comm Failure. IMA Code: P1575 Motor Power Inverter (MPI) Module Voltage Malfunction, P0700 A/T System Malfunction, PAOC4 Ybrid PCM Requested MIL Light--ABS Codes 61-1 BAT Voltage Low. 83-1 ECM Relation Failure, AIR Bag 61-10 Open LF Seat Belt Buckle Switch.

I have an AUL Extended Warranty (Estate Coverage) that expires at the end of next month, and it is my hope that if I fight hard enough I WILL get this fix covered under my insurance...

Help me get knowledgeable on all this please!

I have a (blink code) 12 on my 1998 accord which relates to the EGR valve its an electrical valve not a vacuum pipe sort there are a few small nuts and bolts on the valve but is it possible to strip it down. I have taken it of and cleaned all that i can get to and reset the management light and it stayed out for quite a while. should I strip down the inlet blanking plate and clean all the carbon from this as-well Cheers

have to roll car back to a flat spot, raise hood so sun can shine on engine, let it set for several, days and it will start like nothing happened. I don t always ,like to wait for several days, what do you think.

Only manual cloeseing and no latching

I bought it as a flood vehicle with the fuse boxes changed. I've already put on 25,000 miles. The only persisting problems it got is 1)Power sliding doors won't open when ignition is on, or car started(it'll power close; if sliding doors are open and the car is on then there's a constant beeping sound) 2) airbag light stays on after the car is started and 3) the a/c comes on even when it's off during time of high humidity. The flood line came up to the middle of the cool box. I really want to keep the van even though I regret getting it as a flood vehicle.

The drivers side door will close and then it will open a little bit. I think it drained my battery because I just had a dead battery. What can I do to get the door to close or just use it manually without it opening itself??

My car recently experienced the P1457 code, and it was determined the EVAP Control Canister Vent Shut
Valve Solenoid needed to be replaced. It was replaced, and now when I first start the car, and accelerate it overspeeds to almost 5K before shifting into 2nd gear. This continues for approximately 2-3 stop and go cycles and then it smooths out. I had the transmission replaced two years ago and had no issues with it since. What could be causing that overspeed?

I own a Nissan Sentra 2001 and Honda CRV 1999. Both have been stalling due to CKP sensors and I have replaced them before I came across your informative articals.

I recently took my 2010 Civic (121,000 miles) on a road trip to Colorado. We drove the car everywhere including elevations over 12,000. On our return trip the check engine light came. After getting the diagnostic reading I learned the error had to do with the fuel tank sensor. Does anyone have any thoughts? Might the elevation be the cause?