Honda QuestionsRefine by vehicle
above 750 rpms loud noise in reverce. got used and the first owner replaced it and did same so this is third one.
At 700 and below no noise but shifts hard.The noise coming fro trans. crunch banging noise.
Honda dealership performed multi-point inspection with my 2003 civic ex, just over 100k mileage. I expected problems as there were several concerns. One of them being transmission slipping between 2nd/3rd gears, when going 3K RPMs transmission slips and won't go.
To replace transmission, they quoted:
$5154 if core is usable.
$6354 if core unusable.
I have never heard of transmission core or no core costing over $5k for a 2003 honda civic. Anyone with similar quotes? Or overpriced?
Tire wear looks normal so I rotated front to back but still have the shake. Its not to bad yet, I think it could be a CV joint as the rotors and pads look good and no shake when stopping. Anyone had this experience?
As we approach 60 mph our Honda starts to shake. It feels like it is coming from the front left side of the car. Just had all wheels balanced and new front brakes installed. The same thing is still happening.
what is the drive cycle
OBD reading not ready
It won't even unlock manually. When you try it feels like something is broken.
I just had front end aligned and rods replaced.
My car is 2000 Honda accord, but has a 2003 VTEC motor. My car is smelling like gasoline. Turns out, a hose was cracked. I need to know what this hose is and how to replace it. When the hood is raised, it comes off the motor at the back near the driver. It is mounted near the vacuum hose with a little brass thing. Because the lining is cracked, I can tell it is woven inside. It might carry fuel.At least that is what it smells like when the hose is squeezed. If anyone knows how to post pictures, I will put one up. I need help on this ASAP. My driving test is in a few weeks and I need my car to work right!
when driving car seems to be tracking fine but steering wheel has play
usually between 4th to 5th gear is just cuts outs and dies. I will coast after is dies restart the car and when I put it back in gear and press the throttle is cut a off and dies again. repeat same said steps but then the car wouldn't start back up. I sat for a min or two and it started right back up. first I thought it only happened when it rained outside but it just happened twice on a beautiful hot summer day. I do have a a hole in my flex pipe but I just ordered a new flex pipe idk if the lack of pressure would cause a shott down like that but it seems unlikely.
I tried removing fuse 13 on the passenger side, waiting 30 sec, then replacing it. No joy. Checked all fuses having to do with the side doors; all seem OK to my untrained eye. What next?
Can take my key out while in reverse..didn't know about recall for this. Also no notice about air bag issues, or timing belt tensioner if applicable. Discovered these recalls while searching for sources of trunk leaks.
knocking noise when running 30 mph
when I was at 8 oz and had to start the car
No apparent leaks, no apparent smoke. Has had this for two years. 230K miles. Do I need a valve job? If so, what's a fair price? Thank you.
i just service my car n its show negative figures on the oil life area of the dashboard.
after the wipers stop i can get them to move again for quite some time
I replaced the bulbs & they still don't work. It is only the passenger side.
As I made a turn, heard a popping noise. Now I notice the front left wheel/tire is bowed outward and the car makes a grinding noise as if something metallic is being dragged. I think it is something to do with the suspension -- need to figure out where to take it
After replacing the IAC and ELD I sometimes still have RPM drops and then stalls. Not every stop anymore. I have a cold air intake. Throttle body was cleaned and air flow reset. What else can I do?
Vehicle is a 1997 accord, Special Edition, with 180,000. Problem is extremely intermittent. I can go 2 to 3 weeks between occurrences. When this occurs, other electrical components (lights, radio, etc) are functioning properly. Mechanic checked out all systems and they appear to be fine. He seems to think may be ignition switch, but not sure.