Honda Questions

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What could it be? It seems to be coming from the front?

nothing but trouble since was bought

not in D1. Car start at N and runs fine in R and Drives fine . won't move in park.

Car started to bog down after it was driving for a bit and heats up. It doesn't run hot.seems to only do it when it's hot out unless it's raining. The manifold is cracked/ the catalytic converter has been cleaned out. That helped a little bit but it is still doing it. The metanince light check engine light and srs light is on. I'm wondering if the cracked manifold is causing the car to bog down still or something else maybe something to do with the fuel system. I'm at a loss and everyone I've talked to don't have a clue either and if it is the cracked manifold can it be welded. I've seen people posting that's what they done. But I've always been told cast iron is extremely hard to weld

When the car was used regularly, while driving on the freeway, occasionally the tachometer would bounce around from 5K RPM to 0 and then stay at 0, even though the car was running fine. Eventually, the tachometer would return to normal operation.

Last year the car would fire and run for about 2 minutes then die. Then the car would fire and run for about 30 seconds, then die. Then the car may fire one more time for about 5 seconds, then die. I had the car towed to the house, where it has sat.

Last week after replacing the battery, the car fired right up, but died after about 2 minutes. Then the car fired and ran for about 30 seconds then died. After the engine stopped, the CEL was on and about 10 seconds later the D4 light began flashing repeatedly.

I turned off the key, waited about 10 seconds, then turned the key to position II. The CEL stayed on; I never heard the fuel pump relay engage; about 10 seconds after turning the key the D4 began flashing repeatedly again. The car will turn over at this point, but will not fire. The main relay and ignition coil have been replaced.

While I am driving along at 40-50 mph, I am experiencing frequent slight jerks in my steering along with a bumping or cracking sound in the front end. I am having the rack replaced because of excess play in the steering, but I have doubts that could be causing the cracking and jerking in my steering.

Car is manual transmission, 130,000 miles. In all five gears, the transmission jumps out of gear into neutral when it hits 3000 rpms. Goes easily into gear and drives fine under 3000 rpms in each gear. No odd noises or smells. Am I most likely looking at a pricey transmission failure, or might it be something minor like transmission fluid replacement or clutch issue?

First the check fuel cap light would come on. I would tighten it and it would stop for awhile. Than the malfunction indicator light started coming on. Now car won't start at all. Not even a click in the ignition. My husband checked the battery it's ok.

I lost the codes, but one was emission low purge volume which I'm assuming the purge valve or solenoid needs replaced. Do not know where to start with the low voltage code though. Can I get some advice please? Thanks.

My Accord is an EX Coupe. I bought it from a used car dealer a week ago. Although the car is in quite a good shape there are a few minor problems which are annoying me. Here are the details:

1. The power door lock is not working. I did my research and found out that it is a problem that many 2003 Accord Coupe owners have reported too and the most common issue is with the actuator. I took my car to a mechanic's shop for the initial checkup and they said that it could be the actuator or the master switch. Is there a way I can know for sure what it is and if so, what is the replacement cost of that. My mechanic charges 110 an hour and obviously I am on a tight budget. It is also worth noting that the remote that I have is severely disfigured and only the door open and trunk open switches can be pressed (I plan on getting a new one from Honda). The door unlock key opens the driver side door and not the passenger door and when I long press the key it even rolls down the windows.

2. The lever on the driver's side which pops the trunk open doesn't work. I can still open the trunk with the remote but that is the only way. There is a huge disconnected cable in the trunk which my mechanic also believes is the problem. Any ideas here?

When my a/c is on I hear a loud squealing, lose acceleration, and smell something electrical... I took out the a/c fuse so that I could drive it, but it's SO HOT now and I need to fix it! Is it necessarily the compressor? Can I fix it myself? Has anyone else had this problem, and if so how much did the repair cost?

Purchased 2 mos ago, on recent road trip, car began to shake when on cruise control over 70mph and on acceleration over 60mph. Then engine light came on and ECO light not on. Is this an engine mount or torque converter issue? Dealer says they ran codes, nothing came up and so they can't fix it. That sounds like a bogus answer. Car is at 35940 miles so still under main warranty but also certified used. Please help!?

Shop does't answer calls now and I don't know who to go to. The system seems to be working but it won't pass inspection because the IMA trips the service engine light. Other problem which may be related is the A/C works great until the engine shuts down at a stop then the A/C won't come back on for another day!

It will gointo gear and shift out but feel like u holdingthe brakes the whole time

My a/c unit went out - working one day/not the next. Not blowing or cooling. Took it into Firestone. They replace the a/c unit and it blew out - did it again - same result. Said it was the alternator. I was not having any alternator problems before bringing it in. They replaced the alternator and it did not work. Tried another alternator unit also did not work. Now have sent the car to an electrical shop to further diagnose. Sounds like they screwed up and now don't know what to do. Any thoughts?

I replaced the whole switch and fuses

I replaced a dead engine battery and the car started twice successfully. Then I left it in my garage overnight. In the morning I turn the key and it is completely unresponsive. Tried jumping it just in case, but that did nothing.

The only thing I can think of is that I entered the radio code wrong 3x, but surely that doesn't shut the car down? Help please.

How can I resolve my car starting and then shutting off?
It just died while driving it has oil and gas.

How can I resolve my car starting and then shutting off?

after installing after market speakers in my car i can recieve calls through bluetooth but no sound or ringtone comes through the speakers. Why?

Dealer says it's the compressor?

control arms and bushings $1044 +tax
rear main seal leaking some $ 900 +
stabilizer links 171 +
rear main seal is leaking some 900+
Excessive rust on bottom of car
SRS control unit 520+
hood release cable 187+ paid $3400 keep or get rid of?

starter turned over a little and died as if battery was weak. Replaced battery. All other electrical works but starter acts the same. It turns over a little then quits like the power died. BUT the starter does turn it over some.