Whenever I'm driving I need to turn the wheel at least a couple of inches in either direction before I can feel it start to turn. While I'm driving I can even rotate the wheel left to turn an inch or two and it will still drive straight. Is there a way I can adjust or tighten the steering so that it will begin to turn nearly as soon as I start to rotate the wheel in that direction?

They worked, i took my car in for some work at a shop and it came out and the wipers did not work anymore, could they have just blown a fuse?

My 2009 Accord battery keeps dying. They said the battery was fine. ???Only 10

engine overheats after driving 10 or more miles at highway speeds. i noticed exhast noise a few weeks ago, tought it was a broken pipe, discovered that ox. sensor had stripped out and was hanging under car. wondering if this sending false signal to ecm causing issue with heat sensors

My passenger headlight went out and thought nothing of it. I bought replacement bulbs and still no lights came on. I checked the fuses and still nothing. Anyone out there that can help me out?

I recently bought a 1991 Prelude 2.0 DOHC. It was owned by an old man that rear ended a tow bar. Front bumper, slam tray, aircon radiator and coolant radiator were damaged. The car sat for 12 months without running. I bought it and fixed it up. I drained the fuel tank and replaced the fuel pump as it had rusted. When I drive the car now, 20 minutes after starting the pump becomes increasingly noisy until I lose power. I switch off and start 5 minutes later and the pump is quiet and full power is back. I replaced this pump again as I thought the new one may be faulty, but the new one does the same. I have changed the filter and blown out all the fuel line to check for blockages. Still the same. Please help?

How critical is replacing my timing belt with 120k miles ?

just want to know if i have to drill the 2 bolts off and do i have to disconnect air bags to just remove key lock tumbler? not the electrical switch. thank you.

I have an '89 CRX HF and in the past week my car has stared to surge while in idle. I noticed that it only happens when the clutch is not engaged, and the battery light has come on. When I first start my car it will rev up to 2000 rpm without touching the gas, then it falls to a more normal idle speed and surges between 1000 and 15000 rpm. Also, battery light will turn off when I'm at Rpm's above 2000

The mechanic is telling me there are (2) air filters on my Honda

I cannot open my driver side door unless I roll the window down and open it from the outside handle. I've dealt with this for several months but fear going into winter now. If my window is frozen that means I'm stuck in the van! Any advise on repair? I can't find anything online. Thanks

this was not done when upper and lower front ball joints were replaced.

He obviously doesn't have a crystal ball and may not be able to tell me which components will fail and when, but just what can he look for that may cause me to decide not to buy the car?

Dealer saying rear needs replacing one side broker other side worn.

Dealer said motor burned out on rear windows so I asked them to disconnect however, sometimes I am able to open one window a small amount?

We thought it was the fuel pump so we replaced it, it worked for a bit, then the relay wouldn't work, replaced that as well and it ran for a little while and then the engine was flooding again.
When the ignition turns over it starts to pump just fine but if it doesn't turn over and keep running the fuel pump keeps pumping and floods the ingine. Someone please give me some advice if you can it would be greatly appreciated.

How much is the cost? and what happens if it is not done soon?

My SRS and check engine lights keep coming on. I reset the SRS light but it will come back on a few weeks later. The check engine light goes on and off every few days.

SRS code is 7-2 "Internal failure of SRS unit".

Engine light code is P0420: Catalyst efficiency below threshold bank 1, which might be the catalytic converter or pre-cat.

I've heard rumors that both of these might be covered by warranties. Is that true? I'm not the original buyer of the car. Not sure if that matters.

it will make a humming noise for about 30 seconds then the ABS light will come on. it don't do it all the time though

i got 2 alignments and then i found out that an alignment wont fix the problem. i went to a honda dealership and firestone and they both confirmed that my left rear wheel is "out of specs". Honda wanted to charge me to $1300 to fix the problem. the car is an '02 and is only worth $5000-$5500 according to Kbb.

firestone couldn't even give me an estimate on it but the mechanic recommended that I get new front tires and rotate at every oil change. the car pulls some when i drive that i am used to steering it straight.

is there a better price to get this fixed.

putting the steering knuckle back in having new bearing and hub assembly pressed in

Can someone tell me exactly where it is? Chilton's has a diagram of it but I still can't find it.

The letter D is flashing on the shifter, and dealership cannot figure out the problem



check engine light is on. code po441 is the code it gave me which is a small leak on emmision

no cold air when a/c is turned on &
no hot air when heater is turned on?

sometime its working while im dreving then suddenly drops to 20 and stay to 20, also my millaged meter stopped working also,any suggestion what might be the problem .

About 10 days after Honda dealer replaced my spark plugs, I tried to get a smog check for registration renewal. I had drive more than 50 miles at varying speeds up to 65. I have had two smog checks rejected because some test parameters (OBD catalyst and OBD evap) show not completed.

So when I start my engine (v6)the car goes up to about 2.5k RPM, then drops to under 1k RPM (almost dying, but then it picks up again). It does this repeatedly, Up...Down....Up...Down. If I try to drive off, it acts like there is zero power, and I cannot get further than about 500 years, and it doesnt die, but it the engine will not produce ANY power. This has happened as I left the parking lot at work, got onto the road, and I had to coast to the side, or be hit by oncoming traffic. SCARY. I had check engine lights come on - they got cleared by the guy on accident, but it was running too rich, running too lean, on both banks (5 codes in all - relating to the same thing) If I wait for about 20 mins, and just sit there, while it "does its thing" I can drive off like normal. This is my 2nd Passport, and my first one did NOT do this. The dealership I bought it from replaced a sparkplug, and the EGR Valve. But is worse now. I have no faith in their mechanichs. I took it to a Honda dealership, and they have had it for 2 weeks and counting, with engineers looking at it, and they cannot seem to simulate it, and there is no check engine light to pull codes off of. I have had no transportation for a total of a month and I just bought this thing 7 weeks ago!! If you can give me any direction......I would really appreciate it. Currently its at a Honda service center....but they have no clue what to do for it, so I have gotten no Bang for $130 diagnostic fee Buck! It was fine for two weeks, then all of a sudden, If I did not get that warm up time, even on a warm afternoon, I was not able to drive it.