GMC Safari QuestionsRefine by vehicle
the blower motor will be working, then stop. Or I might turn on the engine to find it isn't working. It may not work for days, or just minutes. Doesn't seem to matter if the switch is on or off when I start the engine.
It was replaced about 2 years ago and always sounded awful. I always wondered if they really installed a new one. Couldn't go back to that mechanic to check it out, the shop closed.
All new front and rear brake assemblies and the brakes grab terribly with minor pressure on the brake pedal. Any ideas why it grabs so bad and yet the brake obviously work?
It just blows hot air.The blower works Is there a fuse.This is a v6 all wheel drive.
brakes lock up randomly right and left front
is exhaust manifold leaks the same as motor mounts I did not see motor mounts on the list of possible repairs
2000 gmc safari honrn does not blow when i push on the steering wheel
where is the fuel pump relay located
what are the signs of a cranksensor going bad
i have checked the fuel pump it works great replaced fuel filter and cap and rotor but i got it running when its hot it wont get spark i took control moule off distb and had it checked and when it cooled down they said it was fine so i put it back and checked my wires on cap it started three times ran and then no fire could it be control module or something else
i have my window motor and when connected to a battery straight it goes up and down but when i cannect it to the plug it only goes up i have replace the switch what would be my next thing to do it is very hot and clamy in florida and this is aggravting my husband
When going up a long hill the trans constantly shifts between 3rd and 4th at approx 60mph. Speedometer bounces between 50 and 70 with no noticeable change in vehicle speed.
water is leaking out as fast as I pour it in the radiator, cant tell where its coming from. mostly on the passenger side around the motor mount.
service engine code reset
Since the last time when I filled up the gasoline tank the gage is allways on the full side even when the switch is off.
1- When the front a/c is working the compresor (clutch) its ON and OFF and blow worm air.
2- When the front and rear are ON the compresor run OK and cool air its blow for all vents.
3- When run FRONT and REAR the manometer gage is OK but when run the FRONT alone the gage is up and down. (see 1-)
4- I all ready add almost thre pounds of freon. ?????
Is It the wiper motor going bad or wiper switch?
I replaced the fuel pump relay and a new fuel pump. But there is still no power to the fuel pump. I really need help.
constant acute sound when I start the van, it doesn't stop, I replaced the serpentine belt, the alternator was repared,the water pump is not the problem and the sound continues,
where is the fuel filter located on this vehicle?
When I got home yesterday, my steering and brakes worked fine. When I started the van this morning, the steering was VERY difficult and the brake pedal was very stiff. What causes this problem?
I need to change the a/c compressor on my van and am not sure how to drain the refrigerant or if I have to.
Is there a seal that can be replaced at the steering gear?There is a fluid leak at the gear box.
I just replaced the water pump in my van. Checked the hoses, thermostat etc. They are fine. I keep getting a hissing from the rear heater, and the carpet gets wet and steam escapes from the rear heater. I'm putting 2 gallons of water/coolant in it every day. What could be the problem? Is it an expensive fix? Thanks.
Im having problems with my van shutting off when the outside temperature rises past 60 degrees. It tends to start back up after 5-10 minute and continues to drive for about the next 5miles or so and then acts like it sucking air when u press the gas petal! i had the distributer replaced and the fuel filter, but not the feul pump. Please help save this vehicle from being salvaged. Thanks,Chris
I had just gotten on the highway and I heard a snap like something "fell off" the van, but there was nothing on the road. Then the brakes failed (locked up, couldn't depress them). Then the steering wheel also locked up. I pulled over on the shoulder and could barely stop the vehicle with the brakes as it would barely depress; I had to press very hard on the pedal.
Underneath the van, right below the radiator area, fluid was draining out (brake fluid probably) and a long string of rubber was hanging from a similar location under the van. The 2 ft of hanging rubber does not appear to be cylindrical like a tube, but the end on the ground appears tattered, like worn out rope at the end.
Any idea what happened? Broken brake line? Any issue with the brake master cylinder?
Thanks for any and all assistance!
the fuel safety switch located
filled up air condition with freon and still blowing hot air
Engine cranks no start,Hooked up fuel pressure gauge 50 to 60psi never drop while cranking it triggered fault code for crank sensor.replaced sensor engine started good but still have tyhe same problem Engine dies/runs rough/stumbles intermittenly.fuel pressure stayed at 50 to 60 psi when its happening.no fault code,no ck engine light happens only when vehicle stopped or in gear with brakes is applied and i can always duplicate this problem.need help
Sorry to be such a pest...but I'm in need of your expert advise regarding the two air vents on the floor behind the drivers and passenger seats, on the floor, facing the back of the van. I had the blower motor replaced recently and nothing is coming out of those vents when the heat is blowing hot air out the side vents on the panel on the drivers side of the back of the van. The dealer claims it's "fixed", but I swear that heat and air were coming out of those also before the motor died. Who's right???
None of the power locks in my 1998 GMC Safari Van work. I cannot find the fuse which controls the locks.