Geo Prizm QuestionsRefine by vehicle
My car will start up and idle but it idles at 1500-2000rpm. When you give it gas it will cut out if you give it gas to quick. If you slowly accelerate it will rap out just fine I've replaced air idle control, coolant sensor, and tps. Also car has new plugs, wires, and distributor cap. I'm not so much worried about the high idle but the cutting out and hesitation when trying to accelerate
1991 Geo Prizm stopped running while driving. No start after that. Getting fuel past the fuel filter. Rotor and cap less than a year old. Removed cap and rotor turns when trying to start so I am guessing it's not a timing belt issue. Car has 61000 miles. Wanted to know if anyone can tell me if I have to replace the whole distributor or is the ignition coil replaceable.
Geo Prizm with 122000 miles. Alternator was faulty making loud noise and a burning plastic smell. Replaced with new DENSO alternator and later 3 OEM Toyota belts. Loud noise and smell went away. Though, squeaking noise was really awful with the older aftermarket belts. It's much better now with new belts, but still a bit of squeaking with start-up, and worse when AC is on. After a good drive the noise disappeared. I just don't want this alternator to go bad prematurely. AC blows nice and cold and have not noticed any issues. What is still causing minor squeaking and how should I proceed?
I have 95 Geo Prizm 1.6. It has high mileage. It was running good until this morning when i stopped to pick up a rock on the road. When i press the gas it stalled. It crack but won't turn run. I checked the fuel pump and fuel filter and they work good. Getting gas pass the filter. What do you think it is? Injectors or timing belt. Thank you, Thomas
Why does the oil light come on and stays on?
my car will crank up and run perfectly fine and it will drive for a lil while, when the temp gauge gets about halfway, and I come to a stop light the engine will turn off. the "check engine" light is on also as well. when it shut off, I let it sit for about 30min.-1hour and it will crank back up and run but it will began to overheat and when I come to a stop sign or a red light the engine will turn off again , I'm not sure whats wrong with my vehicle, can anybody help me , the battery is good , the alternator is fine , I just had my power steering pump replaced , when it blew the was oil all over the place, but eventually was burned off , the serpentine belt is good. can somebody please help me.
Parking brake location?
Aftee i pull ovee and let it sit it will start right up. What can it be? Thermostat gage says its not hot.
My 95 prizm idle bounces up and down. I changed the throttle position sensor and it still does it. What am i doing wrong or missing to fix this problem?
They were working night before in the morning turned on car and all for windows never worked again
so every now and again the ratlling comes on.
Started with my gas pedal vibrating obnoxiously when on the highway going over 65 mph, especially uphill and/ot accelerating.
Then it was the whole car. Had the struts, coils, and mounts replaced. New tires.
Still does it, though slightly less.
When I start it at a cold start it runs just fine, I drive a few miles and then either I press the gas and all I get is a raving engine and no motion of force, or it does move, practically having a violent shaking seizure and then no motion of force just engine rev. No warning lights show, and it only does this when it's hot or already ran once about an hour or so prior.
Please help me.
Buy engine light is on
checked the fuses and can't find one that's bad. also cigg. lighter went out fuses look good. is there an easy (cheap) way of locating/fixing the problem?
It would run decent then bad now it has over heated & I think a hose is busted, what do I do? I can't really afford to put it in the shop right now!
I was driving down the highway about 45mph and suddenly nothing it wouldnt move. I had lossof power and then nothing.
My car has been running fine then out of no where my car loses power. The brakes get hard and the car seems like it goes into neutral. I'll shut the car off and let it cool down, even though it never overheats, and then the car will run like normal. This is the second time it's happened this week. I checked all the fluids and nothing is low.
I just bought my 96 prizm, I was driving it home ( brakes are bad ) so as I went slow down I put the car in neutral and pulled emergency brake, stopped. Went to put it back in gear and it wouldn't move. I can move the shifter to any gear. But the car isn't changing gear. And I can roll while the car says it's In park.
The trans shifted smooth all the way home. Didn't jerk or anything
Now if I start the car put it in drive try to go it wont, and when I go back to put it in park it sounds like I'm grinding a gear in a 5speed. If I go from park to neutral and back to park it doesn't grind.
my engine lite comes on and stays on for a few daze the off again. very intemittant. can not get a code reading when it not on..Ifigure EGR. is that the device on the top of the engine that has an 'adjustment valve' on it ???
appreciate the help.. the service manuals I have are only the "block diagram" ones...thanks in advance.
143.000 miles and runs like a 'bdd''
It is leaking bad when engine turns off down by the pump or seals. When i take the radiator cover off It stops. I dont know exactly which one. I am troubleshooting small to big. Air is cold, Heat is fine, Oil is clear, belts are fine. I am at a lost. The Haynes book is not good on pictures either. Anyone out there to help a lady. Thanks