Ford Ranger Questions

Get answers to questions about your Ford Ranger at RepairPal. Find solutions, diagnose problems and get back on the road.

Refine by vehicle
Choose your vehicle
No car image 94a1663db56199c5353592009e34aaa51078a2469bed068bb8d6f0ba43accf97
Get a Repair Estimate
Guaranteed by certified locations nationwide. Learn more
RepairPal estimates are guaranteed at over 1,700 quality certified locations nationwide. Learn more

what fuse and where located for brake lights

The gear selector won't go into park on the steering column
how to change out the steering column? 72635 this problem started 4-18-11

mileage dont work anymore it just quit been working fine

turns over but no spark to plugs

My 2003 Ford Ranger has about 82000 miles and has stalled out 4 times the past week. Three times in one day, twice while driving and once while trying to start. I can feel the engine start to rumble for a few seconds before it finally shuts off and I have to press the fuel reset switch to get it to start. Anyone have any ideas of what the cause of this issue could be? Any help is greatly appreciated.

Recently have become aware of knocking noise coming from left (driver's) side of engine. Oil level is fine; no leaks or any other issues. when idleed up it stops, no loss of power, good oil pressure.

OK after hearing exhaust system plugged by several people im inclined to think its my cat.converter.Whats the best way to clean it out.Do I have to drop it or can i do it while its still on the truck. Thanks for the feedback.

When I give my truck gas it boggs down.I can barely get it over 30mph. Just replaced the plugs and it idles great,but give any gas and it simply boggs down and simply loses power.

Engine on any throttle postion screaming( Vacume Reed Sound)
Mis fire codes #4,5 &6 Cylinder.
Sprayed berrymans B12 around all areas of intake wuth no change in sound or run??

I did a compression test and got two low readings one on each side and directly opposite of each other. what is the cause?

when its in gear it will go up to 4500 rpm,s before it will start cutting can push the gas pedal to the floor and it will continue to cut out untill you let upon the pedal

just got the truck 3 months ago it work now it dosnt work can,nt fine fuse for it can any one help me thanks

Occasionally with the engine warm, it will start and immediately die. If moved backward in neutral, about one truck length, or if left sitting 2-3 hours, it will start rite up and run great. Happens with no warning. Have replaced the fuel filter, pump relay and TPS. Bewildered...

misses after starting smoothes out after a few min. warming up . then under even a light load cutts out the more throtle the more it cuts out it's went from 20 miles per. gallon down to 12

A few weeks ago I had my truck in the shop due to an engine miss. They replaced the plugs, wires and fuel filter. The truck ran great for a few days and now it's doing the same thing again. The check engine light had come on before it went to the shop, but has'nt come on this time around. What could be the problem with it? One person told me it could be a bad catalytic converter and another says the EGR Valve could be bad. Any help would be greatly appreciated by me.

on my 1999 ford ranger 2 weel drive heard a banging when i started to pull forward climbed under truck and found what looks like a 4'' pice of pipe on the front of the drive shaft is loose seems to be some kind of guard ? can any one tell me what this is and what i need to do to fix it

will not restart when engine has been warmed up.

light stays on(on the dash)and the key in ignition buzzer continues to ring while driving the vehicle..could this be a short in the ignition switch?

where do you place the jack to change the tire

where is the ignition control module located on a 1997 ford ranger

i have a 1994 engine in a 1996 ranger i have the crankshaft sensor connected directly to the computer box. the manual states that the camshaft sensor is only need in the california models. the wire harness only have a connection only for the camshaft sensor. the truck will not crank. what do i need to do?

chimes buzz and interior lights on long after door shut and key in ignition in warm weather for several minutes. NOrmal chime duration in cold weather.

Wher is the camshaft position sensor located on a 1992 ford ranger reg cab, 2.3 liter 4 cyl manual shift?

I replaced calipers and pads and front brakes are still locking up. After the truck cools down they are okay for maybe a mile.

is this a costly repair

How do i get the check engin light to go off ?

I purchased a 2000 Ford Ranger XLT, 4WD with 94,000 miles from a local used car lot. Two days after taking possesion of the vehicle the check engine light came on. I took the vehicle back, and thier mechanic said it was an injector, at which point he did something that seemed to solve the problem however, I could, on occaision smell gasoline. About 2 weeks after the injector repair, gasoline began spewing from the engine. I had the truck towed back to the dealer, where again, the mechanic said it was injectors. After about a week I got the truck back, I drove it off the lot, and about 10 minutes later, while at a red light, the truck started idling very rough with rpms going from nearly 0 to 1500 ppm.There was no check engine light on. I turned around and returned to the dealer. The mechanic put the scope on it, and said because there were no codes, he couldnt fix it. I uttered a few choice words and left figuring I would get the problem solved elsewhere.

Boy, was I wrong.

First, a detailed description of the problem. When starting the truck cold, the truck runs great and continues to run great until the engine reaches operating temperature. Once the vehicle reaches operating temperature, whenever I sit in idle at a red light or stop sign or with the vehicle in park, the rpm's go from nearly 0 to 1500 rpm's. There is no check engine light on and the truck runs fine while traveling. The problem is while in park or idle, and only after the engine has reached operating temperature. I have had the truck to 2 local mechanic shops, and 2 Ford dealerships. The truck was at each ford dealership for a week. These guys have replaced every sensor associated with the fuel delivery system and also replaced the computer. They have been in contact with Ford Central, they tell me the analysis of the exhaust shows no problem whatsoever yet the problem persists. Are there any creative thinkers out there who might be able to offer insight?


when stoping sometimes it races wideopen until you completely stop

sometimes it runs good and somrtimes it will skip an then start backfiring thu exhaust has codes 111,222,223,224 installed both coils, all 8 plugs an wires, crankshaft position sensor, catalytic converter please help if you can

When going slow its like the brakes on and you can power though and it cums and gos