is this a costly repair

How do i get the check engin light to go off ?

I purchased a 2000 Ford Ranger XLT, 4WD with 94,000 miles from a local used car lot. Two days after taking possesion of the vehicle the check engine light came on. I took the vehicle back, and thier mechanic said it was an injector, at which point he did something that seemed to solve the problem however, I could, on occaision smell gasoline. About 2 weeks after the injector repair, gasoline began spewing from the engine. I had the truck towed back to the dealer, where again, the mechanic said it was injectors. After about a week I got the truck back, I drove it off the lot, and about 10 minutes later, while at a red light, the truck started idling very rough with rpms going from nearly 0 to 1500 ppm.There was no check engine light on. I turned around and returned to the dealer. The mechanic put the scope on it, and said because there were no codes, he couldnt fix it. I uttered a few choice words and left figuring I would get the problem solved elsewhere.

Boy, was I wrong.

First, a detailed description of the problem. When starting the truck cold, the truck runs great and continues to run great until the engine reaches operating temperature. Once the vehicle reaches operating temperature, whenever I sit in idle at a red light or stop sign or with the vehicle in park, the rpm's go from nearly 0 to 1500 rpm's. There is no check engine light on and the truck runs fine while traveling. The problem is while in park or idle, and only after the engine has reached operating temperature. I have had the truck to 2 local mechanic shops, and 2 Ford dealerships. The truck was at each ford dealership for a week. These guys have replaced every sensor associated with the fuel delivery system and also replaced the computer. They have been in contact with Ford Central, they tell me the analysis of the exhaust shows no problem whatsoever yet the problem persists. Are there any creative thinkers out there who might be able to offer insight?


when stoping sometimes it races wideopen until you completely stop

sometimes it runs good and somrtimes it will skip an then start backfiring thu exhaust has codes 111,222,223,224 installed both coils, all 8 plugs an wires, crankshaft position sensor, catalytic converter please help if you can

When going slow its like the brakes on and you can power though and it cums and gos

the bracket in front of the rear tire that connects the leaf springs to frame has rusted and disconnected from the frame. how much will a shop charge me to replace this bracket?

How do you tilt compressor and power steering pump to replace water pump? Thanks

I just replaced the starter. Still it acts like battery is dead. I can jump it off and it works fine. As long as motor is warm, I have to problem. It started the fisrt time it frosted after I bought it. Have checked everything i can think of. The chek engine light has never come on. Minktwn@aol.com

The above described Vehicle has a 3.0 V-6 engine. The Automatic Transmission is a 4R44E. If I hit a "bump" in the Road, the engine would temporarily "die" and immediately come back to life.

I have changed the Shift Position Sensor and the Speedometer Sensor on the Side of the Transmission. I also took the Pan off the Transmission and checked for loose connections going to the Servos. The Connections to the Transmission was also observed for Loose Connections and Burnt Wiring. Nothing seems to help. A local Garage placed a "hand held" Analyser on the Truck. Some kind of "open circuit" was shown. Can the Computer be analysed?

I was "forced" to take a temporary route to my home. The Road was a "washboard" and rough. The Overdrive Light would repeatedly come on and off. Finally, the Truck refused to pull or shift gears. The Engine ran extremely rough and would not run faster than an idle.

i just put a seal in the front and put on a filter an new fluid in it took it down the road ran fine got in to it to day to drive it an didnt get down the road not even a mile an it was boggen down an then it would not shift to drive it back home what could be wrong with it

Have new water pump and radiator, still overheating. Water backing up in overflow. Problem occurs constantly.

I have a XL Ranger. Need to raise the steering column, At 6'$', 235lbs.it's a real pain to to get in and out. Only need another 2 or so inches. Anyway to raise up the steering column.

When I turn the key on nothing happens except the dash lights come on. When I turn the key off the dash lights stay on. I have replaced the cylinder and keys, the ignition switch, and the clutch shut off switch. Where do I go from here.

when the ac is turned on the clutch dosent pull in, but after awhile it may pull in. i live an hour from work and if i turn the ac on when leaving work the clutch will pull in and start blowing good cold air when i get almost home.

I recently purchased my 97 XLT Stepside, which came with a few issues. First is the power window on the passengers side doesn't work. I was told that it is the motor. I have located the motor inside the door, but it is actually hidden and very hard to get to. It also has rivets holding it in. I am an ambition first timer, but this seems to be a job for someone more experienced. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.


My 2003 Ford Ranger starts well, idles well and sometimes drives well. But quite a bit of the time any more it acts like it has no power. it misses out. I replaced the fuel filter, had the exhaust checked to make sure the catalytic converter is ok and had it hooked up to a diagnostics machine but have had no luck diagnosing it. The mechanic has it right now and is replacing emissions items but is stumped as to why it is acting the way it is.

When I turn the steering wheel, it makes a noise. It only happens when I turn. The pump doesn't appear to be leaking, and shows that the fluid level is full. That's where the noise seems to be coming from.

This Ranger has only 80K miles and has been babied since new. Recently it developed a rough idle when cold. Runs great once it warms up. Recent code indicated an 02 sensor which was replaced along with the check valve grommet for the power brake unit. Replaced the idle throttle position motor to solve an idle surge problem. I can't find a vacuum leak. I haven't yet checked the intake gasket or "0" rings. I have heard a fuel injector "0" ring leak can cause a rough idle. Recent tune up with plugs, wires. Coil checks OK. Any more ideas?

why would my mile decrease as it gets lower.for example i filled my tank up to the full mark an was getting like 13 to 14 miles a gallon until i got to the 3/4 gallon mark and then from 3/4 to just shy of a 1/2 tank mark im getting like 7 to 8 miles a gallon. can a fuel filter that is going bad cause the decrease in mileage.

With pump installed, how do I keep shaft from turning to allow me to install pulley? I do have a puller/installer tool but when I begin shaft just turns and backs bolt out of shaft? Whats the trick??

I replaced my clutch obout 30 days ago and it slips (when it gets hot) as if it were an old clutch. It only slips after I've been driving it for a while on the highway mainly. Could it be a fsulty clutch?

I have a 1996 Ford Ranger with an automatic transmission. Occasionally I have a MAJOR tranny fluid leak. I figured it may be from overheating. I put in a new radiator, flushed the cooling lines to the tranny, and flushed and changed the tranny fluid. That worked fine...until today. On the way home from work I saw smoke in the rear view mirror, pulled over, and tranny fluid was leaking. It looked like from between the motor and tranny (not blow back through the dip stick). If it was a seal wouldn't it do this all the time? This is driving me nuts! One day I drive over 100 miles and no problem. Today I drive 35 miles and the dreaded fluid leak. Has anyone else encountered this? Any advise? Please help!

how do i replace the slave cylinder

Temp drops from middle to almost bottom never gets hot I have changed the thermostate and checked radator to make sure it is full.

bled brakes - brakes will firm up while pumping when truck is off. Once the truck is turn on, the brakes go to the floor and is spongy. What is the proper sequence to bleed the brakes? or could it be the master cylinder?

when i hit 55mph my truck makes a noise like its like the transfer case.what can his be? it seems like it rumbles when i hit that speed an go higher.

how much to change console light bulbs and how much time?

After driving about 15 minutes, I hear a growling noise that seems to come from the front. It's a continuous noise, but very noticable when slowing down to come to a stop, while turning the wheel while stopped and especially turning the wheel while backing out of a parking space. I don't hear it until the truck is warmed up. I believe the sound is there when going fast, but because of the wind noise, hard to be sure. When the truck is not moving, the sound is really loud when I turn the steering wheel in either direction. It sounds as if it is coming from the steering column. I also hear it when I first step on the brake when coming to a stop. Actually that's when I first heard the sound, only when I stepped on the brake, and now it always there. I took it to a repair shop and was told it was the power steering pump and that nothing could be done. Replacing it wouldn't help. That it was just something I would have to live with. Is this right? It's also been suggested by friends that it might be CV joints. Is this a safety concern?