Ford Ranger QuestionsRefine by vehicle
when its in gear it will go up to 4500 rpm,s before it will start cutting out.you can push the gas pedal to the floor and it will continue to cut out untill you let upon the pedal
just got the truck 3 months ago it work now it dosnt work can,nt fine fuse for it can any one help me thanks
Occasionally with the engine warm, it will start and immediately die. If moved backward in neutral, about one truck length, or if left sitting 2-3 hours, it will start rite up and run great. Happens with no warning. Have replaced the fuel filter, pump relay and TPS. Bewildered...
misses after starting smoothes out after a few min. warming up . then under even a light load cutts out the more throtle the more it cuts out it's went from 20 miles per. gallon down to 12
A few weeks ago I had my truck in the shop due to an engine miss. They replaced the plugs, wires and fuel filter. The truck ran great for a few days and now it's doing the same thing again. The check engine light had come on before it went to the shop, but has'nt come on this time around. What could be the problem with it? One person told me it could be a bad catalytic converter and another says the EGR Valve could be bad. Any help would be greatly appreciated by me.
on my 1999 ford ranger 2 weel drive heard a banging when i started to pull forward climbed under truck and found what looks like a 4'' pice of pipe on the front of the drive shaft is loose seems to be some kind of guard ? can any one tell me what this is and what i need to do to fix it
will not restart when engine has been warmed up.
light stays on(on the dash)and the key in ignition buzzer continues to ring while driving the vehicle..could this be a short in the ignition switch?
where do you place the jack to change the tire
where is the ignition control module located on a 1997 ford ranger
i have a 1994 engine in a 1996 ranger i have the crankshaft sensor connected directly to the computer box. the manual states that the camshaft sensor is only need in the california models. the wire harness only have a connection only for the camshaft sensor. the truck will not crank. what do i need to do?
chimes buzz and interior lights on long after door shut and key in ignition in warm weather for several minutes. NOrmal chime duration in cold weather.
Wher is the camshaft position sensor located on a 1992 ford ranger reg cab, 2.3 liter 4 cyl manual shift?
I replaced calipers and pads and front brakes are still locking up. After the truck cools down they are okay for maybe a mile.
is this a costly repair
How do i get the check engin light to go off ?
I purchased a 2000 Ford Ranger XLT, 4WD with 94,000 miles from a local used car lot. Two days after taking possesion of the vehicle the check engine light came on. I took the vehicle back, and thier mechanic said it was an injector, at which point he did something that seemed to solve the problem however, I could, on occaision smell gasoline. About 2 weeks after the injector repair, gasoline began spewing from the engine. I had the truck towed back to the dealer, where again, the mechanic said it was injectors. After about a week I got the truck back, I drove it off the lot, and about 10 minutes later, while at a red light, the truck started idling very rough with rpms going from nearly 0 to 1500 ppm.There was no check engine light on. I turned around and returned to the dealer. The mechanic put the scope on it, and said because there were no codes, he couldnt fix it. I uttered a few choice words and left figuring I would get the problem solved elsewhere.
Boy, was I wrong.
First, a detailed description of the problem. When starting the truck cold, the truck runs great and continues to run great until the engine reaches operating temperature. Once the vehicle reaches operating temperature, whenever I sit in idle at a red light or stop sign or with the vehicle in park, the rpm's go from nearly 0 to 1500 rpm's. There is no check engine light on and the truck runs fine while traveling. The problem is while in park or idle, and only after the engine has reached operating temperature. I have had the truck to 2 local mechanic shops, and 2 Ford dealerships. The truck was at each ford dealership for a week. These guys have replaced every sensor associated with the fuel delivery system and also replaced the computer. They have been in contact with Ford Central, they tell me the analysis of the exhaust shows no problem whatsoever yet the problem persists. Are there any creative thinkers out there who might be able to offer insight?
when stoping sometimes it races wideopen until you completely stop
sometimes it runs good and somrtimes it will skip an then start backfiring thu exhaust has codes 111,222,223,224 installed both coils, all 8 plugs an wires, crankshaft position sensor, catalytic converter please help if you can
When going slow its like the brakes on and you can power though and it cums and gos
the bracket in front of the rear tire that connects the leaf springs to frame has rusted and disconnected from the frame. how much will a shop charge me to replace this bracket?
How do you tilt compressor and power steering pump to replace water pump? Thanks
I just replaced the starter. Still it acts like battery is dead. I can jump it off and it works fine. As long as motor is warm, I have to problem. It started the fisrt time it frosted after I bought it. Have checked everything i can think of. The chek engine light has never come on. Minktwn@aol.com
The above described Vehicle has a 3.0 V-6 engine. The Automatic Transmission is a 4R44E. If I hit a "bump" in the Road, the engine would temporarily "die" and immediately come back to life.
I have changed the Shift Position Sensor and the Speedometer Sensor on the Side of the Transmission. I also took the Pan off the Transmission and checked for loose connections going to the Servos. The Connections to the Transmission was also observed for Loose Connections and Burnt Wiring. Nothing seems to help. A local Garage placed a "hand held" Analyser on the Truck. Some kind of "open circuit" was shown. Can the Computer be analysed?
I was "forced" to take a temporary route to my home. The Road was a "washboard" and rough. The Overdrive Light would repeatedly come on and off. Finally, the Truck refused to pull or shift gears. The Engine ran extremely rough and would not run faster than an idle.
i just put a seal in the front and put on a filter an new fluid in it took it down the road ran fine got in to it to day to drive it an didnt get down the road not even a mile an it was boggen down an then it would not shift to drive it back home what could be wrong with it
Have new water pump and radiator, still overheating. Water backing up in overflow. Problem occurs constantly.
I have a XL Ranger. Need to raise the steering column, At 6'$', 235lbs.it's a real pain to to get in and out. Only need another 2 or so inches. Anyway to raise up the steering column.
When I turn the key on nothing happens except the dash lights come on. When I turn the key off the dash lights stay on. I have replaced the cylinder and keys, the ignition switch, and the clutch shut off switch. Where do I go from here.
when the ac is turned on the clutch dosent pull in, but after awhile it may pull in. i live an hour from work and if i turn the ac on when leaving work the clutch will pull in and start blowing good cold air when i get almost home.
I recently purchased my 97 XLT Stepside, which came with a few issues. First is the power window on the passengers side doesn't work. I was told that it is the motor. I have located the motor inside the door, but it is actually hidden and very hard to get to. It also has rivets holding it in. I am an ambition first timer, but this seems to be a job for someone more experienced. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.