1,837
questions

I started hearing a squeaking or rattle coming from the rear almost like the exhaust pipe banging up against something. It only did it in 1st 2nd and 3rd mostly. But today I heard it in 4th and 5th. Then when shifting to 4th gear it sounded like I was bogging down and 5th gear was the same way. I was going 40-45 mph, you would have thought I was only doing 15. It settled when I reached about 55 but sounded rough. I have no idea what is going on, but I hope it's not the transmission going out. Any help would be appreciated!

dash switch and switch out under the hood relays. Seems no power to anything when checked with a test light.

and installation

need cost for the engine and installation

The instrument panel I can hook up code reader & reset it & it will start up & run about 5 minutes then shutdown & you have to wait about an hour before you can clear codes again. To start it . What's the problem? ?

Auto- electric and my mechanic did not find what was draining the battery

When you accelerate you lose power

New plugs wires injectors. Fuel at rail and plugs have spark. What fires injectors and how do I check? I have all tools and test equipment just no knowledge on injectors

Had the breaks checked and seem fine. What could be the issue?

engine sometimes runs like new and then just doesn't seem right...chiga chiga sound when idleing..take off oil cap and much air out of cap..engine only has 193000 miles on it I had a 97 ranger with 237000 and didn't use a drop of oil..i don't think the 2.3 I have now is as good a engine as the one in the 97..whhat do you think

Cant move vehicle. ..have to turn vehicle off to swtch gears

runs like crap

The car is a 2000 Ford Ranger, 4L engine.

my engine was running good until the timing belt broke, the belt has been replaced but engine will not start .

I have a high idle whenever my HVAC is in the AC or defrost position. About 10 seconds after coming to a stop it will slowly begin to idle down. The rpm's doesn't drop while shifting. I have cleaned the IAC valve, MAF sensor and throttle body. Any suggestions?

Last 3 months about twice month notice braking hard would feel like engine wanted to shut off but releasing brake would keep that from happening.
Antitheft light blinks fast wen attempting to start then wit key on seems like theft signal gives a code 16

I plan on cleaning the throttle body. Is it necessary to completely remove the TB or can I clean the butterfly and plate without removing it?

This happens when I start out and after about twenty minutes on the road.

My truck won't hold a charge when I took it to AutoZone and have them hook up the machine to check my alternator it's right there machine out and the guy said it must be a wiring problem he didn't know what to do I also had a battery cable melt off the battery why would it do that but it will not hold a charge is my alternator bad or is a solenoid or is it just bad wiring

I took it to AutoZone they tested my battery and said it was fine I took it back to have them test my alternator they're making up to it answer machine free so the guy said there's gotta be some faulty wiring somewhere so now it won't hold a charge and I'm constantly jump-starting or push starting it now my starter is starting to move around make a loud noise what can I do to figure out this problem do I need a new alternator do I have to take it to a shop and have them figure out what's wrong with my wiring

Got brand new starter and have changed ignition switch anstill doing same thing

repld computer w/rebuilt, new intank fuel pump/strainer-3yrs old. 175k miles. Starts ok.

new in tank f. filter 3-4 yrs ago, rebuilt computer last month, 170k miles, 4 ltr 4wdr

all this is after I start truck

doesn't make oil milky..oil stays clean-looking like fresh oil....no gas smell

It clicks in and out of gear.

If I go slower or faster then 55mph it doesn't shake

Corrosion on my battery terminals

My radio randomly changes from cd to radio and when it changes to cd it then says there is a cd stuck in the thing

My truck is an automatic, at every stoplight or stop sign the idle gets very low then it stalls