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when I put shifter back in the wheels are turning while motor is running and shifter is supposedly in neutral...wheels won't turn in any supposedly gear while motor is running...if I let out clutch while supposedly in a gear motor bogs down and cuts off...how do I fix this please?

Getting parts list together for the rear brakes on nephew's truck (not here at this time) But I see 9 inch and 10 inch drums, shoes, etc. I think I'm dealing with the 10inch. What's the popular size?

It happens every time I drive it

sounds like its stuck in low gear

sounds like it is in overdrive , straining

sounds like it is in overdrive , straining

The noise was more evident as I accelerator it. I changed the synchronizer shaft, but the noise is still there.

What would cause bad shaking in the front end at 30mph and no brakes

Either when I'm going up hill or during high MPH like 60-80mph the truck lags/ looses RPM's like it's not firing on all cylinders. Then the truck clears out and runs regularly. It seems like fuel issue but might me a vacuum hose not contacting properly

The engine stalls when coming to a stop or turning.

Engine restarts with no problem.

Each time it pops, the vehicle hesitates.

I have a 4x4 switch on dash.

Still stays in 4l. First time this has happened.

it blinks in a sequince of six times every so often

occurs only at certain RPM. Accelerating or decelerating. Took to a shop and they said there were rocks in a protective pan. They removed them but ratlle is still there. Truck has 65K original miles

Have taken door panel off but cant get into the plastic covered locking mechanism to release the door opener

I was going to test it in inches guys way too much slack on 3rd gear and 4th gear any suggestions what I might have done wrong.

Can't pin point why want go in

I need to replace drivers side door on my 2000 Ford ranger. what year models will fit on my 2000 ranger

flex fuel ranger 3.0 this problem is intermitant, i can drive fifty miles with no problems, but if i drive (cold engine)say to the post office two minutes one way, coming back the check engine light will come on, i think its a fuel trim problem but not sure whats causing it.
So far i have replaced...spark plugs...wires..used MAF...02 sensors (3)..plastic intake o rings..no vac leaks....crank breather hose ok..engine runs smooth, no problems 146,000 miles...cylinder heads were replaced 125,000 miles by PO

I started hearing a squeaking or rattle coming from the rear almost like the exhaust pipe banging up against something. It only did it in 1st 2nd and 3rd mostly. But today I heard it in 4th and 5th. Then when shifting to 4th gear it sounded like I was bogging down and 5th gear was the same way. I was going 40-45 mph, you would have thought I was only doing 15. It settled when I reached about 55 but sounded rough. I have no idea what is going on, but I hope it's not the transmission going out. Any help would be appreciated!

dash switch and switch out under the hood relays. Seems no power to anything when checked with a test light.

and installation

need cost for the engine and installation

The instrument panel I can hook up code reader & reset it & it will start up & run about 5 minutes then shutdown & you have to wait about an hour before you can clear codes again. To start it . What's the problem? ?

Auto- electric and my mechanic did not find what was draining the battery

When you accelerate you lose power

New plugs wires injectors. Fuel at rail and plugs have spark. What fires injectors and how do I check? I have all tools and test equipment just no knowledge on injectors

Had the breaks checked and seem fine. What could be the issue?